Technical Speaking of oil:) does it go stale/etc?

Put it into individual 5-gallon containers, and take it in for recycling.

 

The joy of being able to pour a can of oil into an engine with the spout, was worth the sacrifice.

 

You can do that with a bottle. You just need to use the bottom, and push hard.

 

Can and spout. So fun, yet I'm so glad it's a rare occurrence today.

 

While I can see that there might be some settling of ingredients, if the oil is in a sealed 1-5 quart plastic container..........wouldn't simply shaking it work like it does with paint?
Also, as far as contamination moisture goes.........how much could be in a sealed container ? When the oil is poured into an existing engine, the first thing it does is mix with contaminated oil residue remaining in the engine, then its immediately subjected to an environment of changing temperatures and atmospheric extremes including freezing cold, or condensation on the engine surfaces. That would seem to have a much more adverse effect than any effect caused by sitting on a shelf. Not saying that the oil doesn't undergo any change, but have to wonder just how much affect there is. We have seen a lot of engines sitting with oil in the oil pan for years get started and run just fine. It would seem there is much more exposure inside an engine than simply sitting in a sealed container on a shelf. Sitting in a 55 gallon drum that isn't full would provide more reason for concern, especially if its a metal drum.

 

In a similar vein, does Stabil have a shelf life? What about Sea-Foam?

 

Do old threads about oil have a shelf life?
I see some stale ones get resurrected occasionally.

 

OOps fixed it:
Technical Topic
Shelf Life Recommendations for
Lubricating Oils and Greases

 

Ha, that's almost all my cars. I have an old lubester I use, I bought about 15-20 gallons of ZR1 (when it was on super clearance) about 10 years ago and use it on the cars (stored inside garage)....I think there's like 5 gallons left.

 

MIGHT be ok but I am not willing to fined out, not in a old lawn mower and for sure in a new motor like the o/p was talking about.

 

OK, NOT arguing with you, just a discussion, OK?

A sealed bottle would definitely be different than a half filled drum, the volume of air inside the drum is pretty significant. The volume of air in a full and sealed bottle is comparatively small, it's not going to have the same issue as a partially used drum that's been sitting for a couple of decades.

Shaking the bottle to re-solubolize the additives? I don't know, maybe. But initially when the oil is blended it is done at elevated temperature, which you're not going to be able to do with the oil in a plastic bottle. Paint is not mixed at elevated temp. Will the additives that have settled out remix back into the base oil at ambient temp? I kind of doubt it.

Hey, I've got old bottles of oil around here I still use in lawnmowers. But I wouldn't use them in any of my cars. Oil isn't so expensive or hard to find that I would use it in my cars. But that's just me, other's may thing differently about it.

"When the oil is poured into an existing engine, the first thing it does is mix with contaminated oil residue remaining in the engine, then its immediately subjected to an environment of changing temperatures and atmospheric extremes including freezing cold, or condensation on the engine surfaces. "
Of course, and that's one reason why you need to change the oil periodically. But keep in mind that when the oil warms up to operating temperature much of the condensation will evaporate, depending on how hot the oil gets and for how long. That's one reason why mostly short trips is worse for the oil (and other parts) than mostly longer trips.

 

On that premise if you poured it into the motor and once it warmed up after running then the additives should reblend with the oil.

Just saying……

 

I'd use 30 year old oil long before I'd use 30 year old gasoline, brake fluid, or anti freeze.....

 

Just pondering…but if the additives are needed for lubricating qualities/protection, could you (3rd person) be adding unnecessary wear until the engine warms up?

 

$50?!? Ha! With the price of oil and filters now, that's what it costs when I do it myself and that's if I buy the oil and filter on sale!

 

I used to buy oil in bulk at my shop. One time, the oil truck driver told me his tank was low, so he had to leave a 55 gallon drum. The drum was full.
I asked him for a paddle I could use for a stir stick...I said it would take me long enough to have to stir it!
He said he'd ask back at the plant.
At the time, I was stocking Valvoline 30w Racing.

 

Good point…… But if you’re changing the oil then you would have plenty of residual oil in the bearings and other nook and crannies to protect your motor while it blends?!?

If it’s a non detergent oil would it even have any additives?

 

Sure, you go with that.

 

It was mentioned earlier that the viscosity of the oil doesn’t change while sitting. Is this correct?

(quoted for attention)

 

Honestly I have no idea, I guess the root of the question is “does oil degrade as it ages”? Does it lose the ability to lubricate properly?

 

Correct.
The viscosity of oil never goes away. Even when it is contaminated. Unless it is "cooked " to the point of being a semi-solid.
80 % of all engine wear happens at start up. This wear accumulates over the lifetime of the engine. That is why engine lube is vital to cam break in.
Probably 95% of all oil contamination in a running engine is burnt exhaust gasses, liquid fuel, and carbon from the combustion process being pushed past the rings on the power stroke into the crankcase. As the oil and contaminants mix on a molecular level, the engine oil becomes like liquid sandpaper going through the bearings and all metal surfaces that contact each other.
This damage is further accelerated by the fact that the engine oil is also a coolant for the internal moving parts combating friction.
If the oil filter is clogged due to sludge from infrequent oil changes then the oil is recirculating through the engine unfiltered.
The key to long-term engine life is frequently changing the oil and filter, a properly working PCV system, burning quality gasoline, and Correct timing.

 

Back some years ago, I scored about a dozen Shell oil in metal cans. Don’t have a clue how old they were! I stored them in the garage at my Dads house! Big mistake, he saw that oil and promptly started adding it to everything on the ranch that needed oil! Nothing bad happened…..other than I didn’t have my Shell metal oil cans!






Bones

 

You could be right. According to this, the oil will blend at temps of 131F to 149F, for those of us who refuse to use the metric system .

To choose the appropriate blending temperature, the temperature is too high may cause the oxidation of oil and additives or thermal deterioration, low temperature components of the fluidity of the components can deteriorate and affect the effect, generally 55-65 ℃ is appropriate.
Introduction To The Blending Process Of Lubricants - VMETS
www.vmets.com/introduction-to-the-blending-process-of-lubricants/

 

Some of the additives that can settle out of the oil over time, at least in a multi-grade engine oil, are what are known as "Viscosity Index Improvers". These are long chain polymers that are probably the largest additives in the oil with the highest probability of settling; and if they do yes, it will effect the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature. Single grade engine oils, like SAE 30, or SAE 40, don't have these polymers added; so are less likely to have viscosity changes occur over time.

 

At the risk of getting into an argument here, which I really don't want to do, a lot of this is not accurate.

Viscosity of the engine oil can change for various reasons in use. Contamination from water or from fuel can cause a decrease in viscosity; or contamination from antifreeze can cause an increase in viscosity. I've seen engines with internal coolant leaks where the oil pan was removed and the oil in the pan was the consistency of Vaseline. They were extremely lucky to have not thrown a rod. The viscosity will also increase due to oxidation, or to thermal stress (cracking); sludge buildup, etc.

Re the oil becoming like liquid sandpaper, yeah, I don't think so. That whole part leaves me wondering WTF?

 

We have oil from the Vietnam era. All old military surplus. My dad used to buy it at auctions. I am still using up high temp artillery grease. Never had an issue. I will admit, I will be glad when it's all gone. Been using it up since 1976.

 

back in my teenage (no money) days used to buy reclaimed oil - no idea what that meant, except cheap to put in my "automatic discharging" worn motor. Bought at local grocery store, along with recharged batteries.

 

Back when my shop was in the “ hood” , I stored my used oil out of my firetrucks in horizontally mounted 55 gallon drums with valves behind the shop. Funny thing is I rarely had to dump the barrels! Lol





Bones

 

I used one in the mid 60’s on a 283. Changed the tp, double ply, every 500 miles and added a quart of oil. Every 25,000 I changed the oil and filter. I hand bought the car used at 1 year and 13,000 miles. It always had a miss. At 140,000 I took off the heads and found a low piston. Removed the engine and found a rod with an “S” in it. Probably hydrauliced on the starting line when new. That engine was the cleanest engine I had ever seen. There was no sludge and scrapping your fingernails on the cast iron in the valley or crankcase would show nothing. I sold it on the car.