Projects What’s a brake lathe worth?

I only ever had one, that I bought for pennies at an auction and flipped for about $850 to someone who was shipping it to Mexico. It was a really nice machine but it had an issue, the buyer knew and apparently it was something they could fix. But that was quite a while ago, the demand might be less by now.

This is the kind of tool I would love for one of my friends to buy but I wouldn't have enough opportunity to use it to justify the space. If I had a lot of extra shop space and I could score one cheap (like a few hundred, working and with all the pieces) I'd grab it in a heartbeat.

 

Alot of places went away from turning drums/discs because it became cheaper to just buy new.
Back in '90 working at NAPA, there were a number of shops that required we turned the new ones a smidge due to crappy manufacturing.
Having been out of that biz for a while, not sure if that is still true.

 

I was under the impression that one of the reasons places quit turning drums and arcing brake shoes because of asbestos dust.

 

The asbestos dust issue is kind of 30 or so years ago....cheap replacement drums/rotors is more like 20 years ago.

 

I have one that got used a fare amount back in the days. I have used it to cut down clutch pistons in automatic transmissions to make room for more clutches.

 

Thanks, my memory issue started, ummm, sometime back then .

 

I paid $75 for one at the Petit Jean swap meet last year. Its on a stand, doesnt take much room.

 

For late model stuff, it's cheaper to buy a new rotor in most cases, but for the shit we work on, you can't usually get a replacement. And definitely not cheaper than resurfacing them. I'd walk in there all cocky Mike, and say "I'll give you $100 for that brake machine thing if you're not gonna use it anymore"

 

Then say “take the effing money, it’s the best deal ya gonna get”!

Lol, I’m going to use a more tactful approach

 

When I had a summer job many years ago at an auto machine shop, I would run the drums though the parts "dish washer" before machining, so it was easier to set them up accurately, and not release asbestos dust into the air. This was in addition to our standard procedure of post-washing.
Then I got called into the office to get scolded about wasting company time cleaning them up.

I prefer to clean up rotors on a flywheel grinder, it gives a better surface finish and you can take only as much as each side requires.

 

I've got a Black and Decker valve grinder, and 2 seat grinders I'd trade even for a good working brake lathe both drum and rotor capable. I collect stuff and hate things like that getting junked.

 

I think I've had on drum turned in the last 20 years, and that was because the new drum was warped. The only shop in town that still turns drums and rotors did it for me. They turned it to max, (.060) but it still didn't look too good. They didn't charge me, good thing, it lasted a few months before the warp reappeared. That drum has been replaced.

Several years ago, I took a pair of drums in off a 90s Dodge truck that had 40,000 miles on them just to clean them up. The parts store measured them and told me they were way out of specs (they looked really good), but they just happened to have a new pair on the shelf. I had him get the new ones out, and measure them, out of the box, the new drums were out of spec. I told him thanks, I'll just use the old drums, they have already been paid for.

The modern stuff usually needs to be replaced because a lot of the drums and rotors wear off and develop cracks pretty bad, I'm sure the metallic pads isn't helping. I've pretty much gotten into the habit of planning on replacing the drums and rotors along with the brake shoes and pads that are now lasting 100,000 miles or so.

I have no idea why I'm still collecting them, but I do have a pile of older drums and rotors that could probably be turned. I'm not going to buy a drum and rotor lathe, but I only have 3 vehicles and all have had recent brakes that I don't anticipating on wearing out.

 

Couple years ago I was given a Ammco 4000 with all the adapters. Since then I've watched what they sell for just for the heck of it. Asking prices range from a couple hundred to a couple thousand dollars. I'd just ask if he wants to sell it and let him put a price on it.

 

WOW, that's kinda rare around here. The disc/drum machines go for around $2500+ in good working order. The drum or disc only ones are harder to find but do go for less. I want to also and space is at a premium here BUT, i would make space here for a cheap or free one. I for one get drums at the swapmeet or in the local ads, I'll turn them and re use them no problem (plus all the early Ford drums).......early parts are better then new parts . A buddy moved away with his plus my local parts store closed, I'm cheap and like to do things my way. If your worried about the dust wear a mask.


If new drums/rotors are so much cheaper then turning the old ones then why are these brake lathes not dropping in price.

 

I don't know man, what's a brake lathe worth? (Waiting for the punch line )

 

I gave 1,200 for mine back in the mid 90s.

 

We had a new one arrive at the local NAPA that opened here 20 plus years ago, unfortunately, the shaft got bent when it got loaded or unloaded. After a few cockeyed drums and rotors got reinstalled, the irate customers badmouthed turning drums and rotors to the point no one I know will bother having them turned any more.

 

Sometimes I have to sit down and smack myself in the head.
As I was nearing Escalon I was thinking where I’d make a spot for a brake lathe. Well heck I’ll just move my compressor and put it against the wall where….drum roll please…my other two lathes are.
Ones a 9 inch Logan the other is a big Hendy. The backplate for the chuck is a good 14-16 inches in diameter.
Well heck, what can I use to hold the drum? Hmnn, why not go to pick and pull and snag a rear axle.
I figure to center the drum on it, get some 1 inch or so round bar, drill and tap it. Counter sink round bar as stand offs. Get some long u bolt nuts and taper them the same as my counter sink is. Bolt the hub on and use a boring bar.
Danged axles will take up less room than another machine.
Needless to say I just drove by the place.
Thanks all.

Edit: heck, I just need the stand offs sunk and a small taper of any degree to locate the drum via the bolt pattern holes.

 

Circular logic, always make's a pit stop at frugality!
Financial tranquility, has been maintained!

 

I spit my beer out! Hey, 7th week of OT night shifts and my weekend off, I deserve a few (dozen) cold ones

 

I don’t want to look for a can opener, I go with Coors Light. But CL isn’t traditional, so…

 

Just more shit taking up space in your shop/garage that you don't need.

 

Get it! Sure stuff takes up room, but there’s nothing like being self sufficient…

 

My suggestion would be to insert the axle in the lathe chuck and slip the drum on it backwards so it centers on the axles protruding center hub. Then make a round thick (aluminum ?) plate with the axle pattern drilled in it. Slip it in place and tighten lug nuts to hold it against the inside of the drum. You might need to relieve the face of the homemade plate so it goes flat against the drum inner face. (look at the picture I posted and see how the drum is mounted with larger plates ) (might find an old machine like this and just rob the parts off it to use on your lathe) You will also need one of those elastic straps to wrap around the drum and prevent harmonics. (Amazon has them)

 

I'm with @cactus1 on that point, don't like paying for something I can do myself.

My lathe isn't big enough to turn drums. If you have a 3 jaw chuck then you can turn rotors/drums that are hub centric. The drums that have a hub I would just scrounge up the proper cones, spring and holders (maybe a couple of shaft collars), make a bar the same diameter as the one on the brake lathe. This way you can turn all different types of drums just like the real machine. Don't forget the anti chatter band for the outside.

 

The Van Norman 204 is probably the best Drum/Rotor lathe ever built. It will handle everything from early Ford tapered axle rear drums to comercial truck rears with the dual wheels attached. It will also single point turn flywheels without chattering. I have turned thousands of drum/rotors on one of those machines and still have access to it today.

 

I get ya. My “idea” was stand offs, because I was doubtful that the drums would have the same size register that the axle has.
I guess I could get a pair of wheel spacers and figure out a full clamping surface as well.
I worked at station some 40 years ago and we would have a mobile service guy turn drums in a van. I watched him a few times but don’t recall him banding the drums. Maybe he did and I missed it. Not a bad idea to do.

 

Just be careful mounting /dismounting those Cragar's with the tire machine pictured (Coates 10/10?). Real easy to break the snout. Don't ask me how I know.

 

I did as well. Fella came in to the station. Boss told him it was likely they would snap off. He said go ahead and do them. Yep, 3 out of 4 broke off.