View attachment 5698202 View attachment 5698198 A 1935-40 after market ch***is is for sale locally and I am interested in it for my 36 truck project. I wanted to post it up here for some experienced builders to take a look at it and tell me what you think about how it’s built. Unfortunately it has IFS so I have cropped that out of the pictures. Let me know what you think please.
Not an expert, but look at all the time saved by you. Bring a good tape measure. some blue tape and take your time inspecting closely.
Maybe it's just me; but I would add some vertical plates between the rear legs of the X-member tubes and between the ones that tie the center part to the side rails along with the right forward legs opposite the master cyl mount. I would also put a rear crossmember.
So what if there's something super wrong with the front suspension and we tell him to buy it based on what we can see? Leave it all up or take it all down. FWIW I think I see some less than pro welds under that shiny paint.
If you are concerned about that or anyone else here, simply have the OP PM those off topic images to you.
Im not sure how much torsional rigidity is afforded by the box section. It could be made to look more original style if 1/8" webs were added between the box sections. Holes would be nice, preferably belled. Would stiffen it up some, if its not already stiff enough. Chris
I would get rid of the rear air bags, replace with either coilovers, coils, or leaf springs. I don't think too much of the brake line routing over the panhard. Depending on price, could be a good jump off point.
The rear shock mount tabs are inadequate and need to be gusseted too. I'm ***uming you will do a better job routing the brake lines - and find a longer jounce hose too. I'd buy it, even with the upgrades needed.
One of my concerns is how the rear upper cross member is built and the shock and bag mounts are made. I haven’t gone and seen it in person yet, but some of the welds look sorta ugly in the pictures. Was hoping to not have to do any major modifications to it.
I'd remove the shock mount and Weld in a plate that ran almost to the corner giving a triangular reinforcement in the corner, leave a small section of corner out to let water and dirt out. 1/8" plate as stated above and put between the crossmember bars, add holes as necessary to run exhaust, tubing etc thru. On a daily driver or weekend cruiser I'd have no problem running it with the above mods and it wouldn't take alot of time to do it and have a rolling ch***is. Oh yeah the rear bags would have to go... ..
It doesn't look super duty, but if you don't thrash things and are not planning on more than 5,000 miles a year, or driving on a lot of rough roads, it may be adequate for your needs. It is a way to get a car on the road faster. Many ch***is are overly strong for their actual use needs. You should evaluate it on price in relation to your actual needs.
While I was in the ch***is business (40+ years) I built quite a few 35-48 reproduction ch***is. For a car or truck the weight you are building in IMO the X member is a little light. I always used 1X2 120 wall rec tube. The front suspension was split between the off topic IFS and straight axle fronts with split bones. On the rear most were parallel rear springs and 9 inch rears. I think I only may have done 1 bagged ch***is and a couple with coil overs? On your frame there is definitely a problem with the brake lines. You will also have to cut the outside the frame body mounts for the pickup. It may be a bargain but there's better out there.
I thought it looks a little lite in the reinforcement. The front suspension has similar issues. I was liking the idea that it was complete, painted and sorta ready to go. It’s listed at $5k which is on the high end for me.
Run, run fast. Far tooo many red flags for me. What I can see of the welds is not pro quality fab work. As mentioned light x member pieces. Whole thing just looks off, who knows how square it is even? I would rahter start with a nice stock frame
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1935-1940-ford-car-frame.1289461/ Cheap...and appears to be a better start.
That is a pair of frame rails, that might be useful. If I got this for free, everything between the rails would go in the recycle bin, as it is all under-spec for the intended use.
1936 Ford Truck, no engine or ******, body and frame in really good condition. | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com) 7.5k sell all the double lesser condition jiblets you have to total the 7.5k thats ***uming the price could come down ***le yes - so if it has the wide 5 wheels even if its a 36, it has cable brakes, so it doesn't have rod brakes, so it has the round back spindles. but it will have a 35 36 steering box, the two part body style. the rear inner structure of the x member will be solid, i still reckon the 1/2 ton pickup frames and convertibles use a thicker gauge steel than the roofed cars mmmm
1936 spindles are a one-year-only spindle. They seem to be a composite of 1928-1935 bearing spacing, and the later round-back. They will not interchange hubs/drums with 1937-end spindles. If going to juice brakes, the backing plates can be used, but the drums would need to be retained.
If the ch***is didn't need any work it would be a deal at 5 grand but from all the negitive points I would suggest keep looking. HRP
There has been way more metal deposited in those welds than what would be called for no heavier gauge steel than this is built with. From the looks of most of the welds I see, the person who did them was running cold. Even though there's a lot of weld, I doubt there's much penetration. Depending on the price of the frame and how willing a person is to do a lot of grinding and re-weld, I would p*** on this, myself. I don't even like the color .
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