Hot Rods '63 Rambler Classic 550

Regluing the upholstery on the center console

 

Installed new Axle bearings and seals since they were suspect to the weird knocking noise. They didn't fix the noise, so that's $100+ down the drain. Next thing to do is completely redo the center section. I'm gonna talk to a guy about getting a new gear set with a better gear ratio. If that's not what's making noise I'm gonna be livid, it is driving me up the wall.

In better news, here's some progress
We also covered some fuel line with some heat retardant wrap.
Also finally have the Tach and volt gauge wired up.

 

NAPA hit me with $100 for the press work alone on my bearings, believe that bill with the seals was just over $200. One side of mine was leaking and obvious. So I wouldn't call it a waste, you ruled out something important and learned how to change a bearing... and didn't forget the axle flange.

 

My driver side was leaking anyway so it was good to fix that. Just frustrating that the knocking noise is eluding me.

My car club's big run is coming up this Saturday I believe. 170 miles. Crossing my fingers that Everything goes well.

 

Some Recent Rambler pictures;

 

Saw this in one of your pics a couple of pages back. Could that bolt be bottoming out on the torque converter?



Did you ever check the flex-plate for cracks?

 

I can't say that I have checked for cracks. But this is the second time I heard someone say something about the flex plate. I'll get it on a lift as soon as I can

 

Way back in 2005, @squirrel stated . . .

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...converter-flex-plate-bolts.56892/#post-709916

3/8"-16 x 5/8" bolts should do the trick. Real GM bolts with the flanged head wouldn't be the worse idea, unless you have to order a larger package quantity.

If you get the converter unbolted, try pushing it back toward the trans just to make sure things haven't gotten into a bind somehow. There should be somewhere around a 1/4" or so of clearance with the converter pushed all the way back.

 

Haven't gotten it on a lift yet. But on a drive today I decided to put the thing in neutral while it was making the knocking noise and the knocking went 99% away. So surely it's a transmission issue. Guy was telling about some brass bushing or something near the tail end of the trans could be the cause. Guess we'll see.

 

It's been around 9 months since I had my Rambler in the counts car show in February. Back then, the Rambler didn't even run, we had to roll it off a trailer. I was so happy to show off the work me and my Dad have done the previous 2ish years.

I didn't bring it to the show hoping to get some trophy or award, I just wanted people to see a cool Rambler at a car show but I ended up winning first in my class, at my FIRST car show!
There must've been a mix up or something that day and they never gave me my 1st place plaque. I wasn't all that bummed out, my Dad always said it wasn't about the awards and trophies, and I believe that 100%. but even he was alittle annoyed that I didn't get my first ever award.

Anyway I'm "rambling on" too much, let me get to the point;
today I came up to my Dad's house for something and he took me down to the shop to show me the progress on his T. While we were down there He gave me the 1st place plaque I won! One of the guys running the show brought it up to Dad the other day.

I'm happy to have it
I look forward to next year's show, maybe I'll even get to park next to my fellow Rapid Shifters

 

Congratulations!!!

 

You don't go to shows for the purpose of winning awards, but it's nice to have your hard work recognized, especially by people you respect. Congrats and keep up the good work.

 

Congrats on the unexpected show win! Those are the best! Great job on the custom console. the car is coming along real good!!

Noise only when in motion... You eliminated the first cause I'd mention -- a spun hub -- when you replaced the axle bearings. The axle nuts should have been tightened to 250 ft/lbs. If not, you risk spinning an axle in the hub, which leads to noise and loss of power. If not sure check them!!

#2 is the mounts on the ends of the transmission cross member. There are rubber mounts there, unexpected as I don't know of any other manufacturer that did that. If the CM appears to be resting on a little flange at the ends (especially check the driver's side!) the rubber mounts are shot. That flange keeps the CM from falling out, but should be about 3/8" between flange an CM. AMC Acres (used to be Galvin's -- http://www.ramblerparts.com) has them, other vendors such as Blaser's (http://www.blaserauto.com/) do also.

#3 is the cushion between torque tube and trans. Inside the trans in is a big rubber cushion. The TT pushes on this when moving the car. When it gets worn or soft from leaking tranny fluid you get some movement. AMC Acres and Blaser's has replacements. The original is vulcanized on the end, the replacement glued in with RTV. Scraping old one off is a bit of work, but not too bad.

#4 is the CV joint inside the torque-tube. It's and old stype double-Cardan joint (two standard joints back to back, 180 degrees off). The center piece that joins the two U-joints has a pin and spring mechanism that keeps the joints in-line and prevents flopping around. They wear with age more than miles since they are totally enclosed and protected. There are no repair kits, but check with Blaser's, they were supposedly working on one a few years ago. The most often used fix is to convert to a single u-joint. Not an issue, 56-62 Rambler V-8s used a single joint -- the CV was a 63 attempt to make the car smoother running. Most can't tell the difference between single and CV joints -- especially if the CV joint was failing! That entails removing the driveshaft and having the tubular front section lengthened. So take it to a driveshaft shop. Just remember to disconnect everything when taking the torque-tube out, don't try to jack/pry/pull it back. You've removed the rear end before, so shouldn't be an issue. Blaser's and AMC Acres should have a rebuilt single u-joint shaft, but you can probably get it done locally cheaper.

 

Farna, he’s running a small block Chevy with a Ford 8” rear end. None of the factory Rambler stuff.

 

Proud of you Brooks. Most guys your age are wasting time on video games or on social media or whatever. You're using your time wisely, acquiring skills and patience that you can't get anywhere else. Yeah the clunking and the vapor lock is frustrating but, how patient are you? How bad do you want it?

That's a really neat car you picked for a first project. Your dad is an excellent fabricator, really like what you guys did making sub connectors, making your wheels, etc. Lots of detail stuff. Looks great with the reverse steels and dog dish caps. Really like that air cleaner too. Don't let this car kick your ass. Don't give up on it. Let it sit for a couple months if you have to but don't give up on it.

 

great choice! nice body style and fairly rare. how many of your buddies even know what a rambler is?

 

Duh!! I forgot. First post mentions a SBC 327 swap.
So the only advice I gave that might apply is #2 -- the rubber mounts on the ends of the crossmember. If the Rambler trans crossmember was used (most keep it and modify for the Chevy trans mount) it probably has those rubber mounts on each end. If a custom crossmember was used it probably bolts on rigidly.

I'd still check trans and motor mounts... either could be an issue.

 

Did a late Christmas at my Dad's house today. I got a really special present from Dad(@rusty rocket ), drawn by @rusty1 .Thank you Rusty&Rusty for the drawing, I love it very much. I put it next to computer so I can see it everyday when I look at the HAMB

 

That's way cool Greenblade

 

Very cool! Merry Christmas and a happy new year to you!

 

Glad you like the sketch, that's a neat lil car.

 

2023 Counts car show. Was able to drive in this year. pictured also is my Papa's 40 ford.

 

Cool .... great to see the two of you displayed together ..... and GOOD LUCK TO BOTH OF YOU ‼️‼️‼️

 

I had an itch to do something with the Rambler today so I wired up a working horn button, small step but it put a smile on my face! Next is to figure out reverse lights, if possible.
Or just work on my '30 model A

 

Reverse lights should be easy. There is a switch at the bottom of the steering column under the dash. That's neutral safety and reverse lights. Of course check the fuse first, then make sure the lights have good bulbs and grounds. Grounds are the usual culprit if everything else checks out, or bad contacts in the sockets.

 

Greenblade, are you still out west?

 

Midwest, western S.Dakota
Your profile pic, I recognize that rambler
Saw it on Facebook awhile back. Almost bought it.

 

Ya East river here, about 35 miles south of Sioux Falls. We talked a little bit, we were pretty much doing the same things to our Ramblers, I bought the Hotrodstohell truck arm kit. Just curious did you keep any measurements off the frame connectors you made?

 

I'm running a floor mounted lokar shifter and an aftermarket gm style wiring harness and fuse box so I'm not sure it'll be the same.
I know grounding is definitely an issue on this car, my brake lights only one or the other will work depending on the exact position of my blinker switch. I'm told it's a grounding issue but I'm shit with electronics