Customs What to do? will it fit?

I’ve installed an IRS.
Waste of time unless it helps ya get it stupid low.
More grip? Doubt it.
454? we’ll stab it in an cut out whatever’s in the way.
An install kit? Custom work requires custom parts. I build all my engine mounts because all the store bought crap I’ve seen sux or just doesn’t exist
Trans adapter? For a modern 6 speed auto dont forget to price the electronics.
6 speed manual, get the check book ready.
I’ve installed big blocks and 6 speeds in other rides.
First thing I did was remove the trans tunnel and part of the firewall.
Then fit the engine/trans and whittle until we were happy with placement and angles.
Then built the floor and firewall to fit along with mounts.
Rear end? The 8.8 or 9 would be my choice.
As far as having the 8.8 you mentioned cut, we didn’t cut em until we nailed down the wheel and tire we were gonna use.

 

If you want a y block, build a y block. If you want a driver, there are plenty of small block combos that would fit for far less than the 454 offered. I have found that going half way ends up being all the way, as life happens faster than you know. I don't know about your chassis, but a Windsor bolts into a 57- 59 chassis with nothing more than a spacer and 70s truck engine mounts. 50 bucks in mounts your bolted down.

 

Reckons means he doesn't really know, but based on his experience, if YOU spend enough time and money on the project, YOU can do it, or have it done. Meanwhile that 454 isn't in his way anymore and he's got $2,800.

 

CAN I GET AN AMEN!!!!!!!!!

 

But if I thought I needed all the modern stuff in an old car, if just drop in that gm 2 letter engine we don’t use here.

 

1965 FORD 289 Good running Engine Block Heads Performer Intake roller rockers | eBay

289 = cool

 

your right, im sticking y block

 

yeah, good points. Im gonna stick with the Y block

 

What kind is it?

 

Def sticking with the Y block, they do have a cool factor as its not as common and they sound good. Im not trying to be the fastest y block by any means, but i do wanna be able to do longer trips to Vegas or Arizona and i do wanna be able to light up the rear tires when needed

 

For one, Thanks for the effort in the reply. Gave me a laugh!
To answer your questions and comments.

I do plan on learning on it, and do what i can. I wouldnt say im useless at being a mechanic but there is def some stuff i wouldnt wanna do myself mainly stuff like chopping and welding.

The current state of it, it is all stock in regards to power train. It does run, but it needs a new battery right now which im picking up this week, and gonna give it an oil change. So i live in an apartment in north hollywood, and i dont really have a proper space to work on it, hell even the ground that its parked on is not level so when me and my buddy Jacked it up to switch the wheels (went to temp wheels, 17s, to fit the disc brake conversion i got for the front) it was sketchy.
Luckily, that same buddy has a house a few miles north and has a big back yard with a lot of pavement. He is going to let me stash it at his house so we will be able to lift it safely. He actually just got a hoist and we are planning on taking the body off the frame, to give the fame a coat of paint ( the frame is in good shape, no repairs needed besides the very front cross member, which i believe is bolt on) and it will be easier to run the new brake lines and pull the engine out.

I have a 8.8 rear end out of a ford explorer that i am going to have fitted, so i will have better gearing, a stronger rear end, and it will take care of the rear disc brakes.

The y block will be built , not to set any land speeds, but to give it an overhaul, make it a little more peppy. I do want to be able to light up the back tires wheen needed I am essentially refurbishing the whole car, cant ignore the engine right!!! I will be pairing it to an automatic transmission as its a 3 speed right now and living in LA with a manual sucks!! lol! so by keeping the engine, itll fit when it gets built, i will have to get an adaptor to mount the trans, and then have a drive shaft made. All money but all money im willing to spend on it to make my dream come true!

The current condition otherwise is good. The roof was chopped 3 inches by the previous owners, so it has a slick look without it being to extreme. The body is in good shape, def not perfect but no major dents or missing parts or anything like that. I will hopefully learn with another buddy who does body work on prepping it for paint. That is in the future after all the mechanical stuff is done.

The interior def needs work, its pretty much just bare bones minus the back seat is still in good condition and the dash is in good condition, the clock still works, radio has been swapped out with a digital boat radio that fit in the circular spot of original radio. The speedo and all that isnt wired up right now but we will find out if it works after i re do the engine and get a new wiring harness put in. Its already been converted to 12v and all that, new distributer etc. The interior will be the final and last step! i am confident on doing most of the interior myself, only the carpet is kind of making me worried! lol

 

Also, while i have some smart guys here on the thread.

Another question.

I recently went and got some 17 inch wheels to replace the set of 14s that where on the front and 15s on the back. The width is the same i believe 8 inches. The reason for these wheels is i needed clearance to fit the discs on for my front brake disc conversion, and the back end had been lowered by previous owner and i needed a little more clearance for the time being.

The thing is im guessing there is an offset difference between these wheels as when i got these on i felt like there was much less space on the threads of the Studs on the wheel hubs. So i want to replace the studs and im having a hard time figuring out how much bigger to go. I couldnt really find the stock sized ones and im guessing id prob like to add at least half an inch in length? If anyone can help me out on the right size to order the new studs, i would greatly appreciate it!!!

Thanks

Dan

 

i was referred to someone in riverside ca by a fellow member on here.
he told me to bring my new rear end and my old one. Basically theres a couple inches they need to take off the driver side of the 8.8 to make it even sized with my current one, and it will take two passenger side axles at that point. I wasnt really trying to widen the rear end as im kind of limited with the body coming down over half the rear tire. So ill probably be limited to an 8inch width rim in the back unless i were to cut the axle even shorter, but then i wouldnt know what do in regards to the axle.

yes, have factored in the price for the US shift device, but to me it is worth it. with the gearing of that rear axle, wheel size and the 6 speed, i should be able to get a nice 80mph at 1800 rpm down the freeway. In regards to getting a 6 speed auto ford, after mounted to engine via adapter, do you think i got a lot of cutting and chopping on the fire wall? the floor seems more friendly to me lol, and fabricating a new trans tunnel cover should be an easier job then firewall?

 

Keeping the Y will fix any firewall issue other than possible tunnel issues.
You don’t know what to do till you fit the pieces.
Modern transmissions are larger than old ones.
If building a low car, trying to fit a larger trans under the floor can cause issues.
But ya don’t know till ya fit it.
The wheels. The bosses here dont do large diameter wheels.
But wheel stud issue is probably from going from steel to aluminum.
Stud length issues when changing between the 2 are common. The length increase will have to at least match the difference.

 

i think ideally id like to go with 16 inch wheels, but i dont know, maybe keep 17s. So ill need to find new studs, do you know where i can find out what size to go to? or do i just need to hammer out an old one and go to a shop and find one thats got the length im looking for on top of it?

as far as fitting the trans, i hear that. Making a new tunnel is fine with me im more worried about messing with the fire wall. TBH i have zero idea about any of the angles stuff, But im gonna send you a message.

 

My 292 Yblock loves the highway with the overdrive,cam and how its tuned . The thing bearly works and on a good day I can get 20 mpg but your mind seems to be made up on the big block Chev so good luck.

 

nah im keeping the Y block!!!

 

First, the Corvette rear end is a poor choice for several reasons but a big one is that they are not very strong if you put one behind much hp/torque.

An 8.8 is an excellent choice especially if you can find one with a factory posi in it. Get this book and it will answer all your questions and probably save you money on getting the best one to convert......if the one you have isn't already a posi.

bout $25 on Amazon


As far as engine of choice goes. Within reason most engines will cost you the same for machine work and parts when overhauling. Since you have limited experience, I'd pony up what it takes and get a new/professionally rebuilt CRATE engine. I say that because "good deals" often don't live up to their billing and cost you more time and money later. The guy that built the engine says you or the installer screwed up the perfectly good engine and won't refund your money. The installer says he isn't going to pull and install another engine for free. It happens a lot............
Buy something like a Ford crate engine or a Blueprint Crate engine and pay more initially....but you get more. If it were me I'd chuck the Y block/boat anchor and go for some type of 351 Ford engine and a simple 4 speed automatic thats beefed up a little. No transmission adaptor and the overdrive will get you down the expressway at a rapid clip or give you decent gas mileage. The Chevy in a Ford works fine up to about 1953 (IMHO) because of frame considerations. After that, I like Ford in a Ford conversions. But, what I like doesn't matter here, its what you like thats important. At any rate this set up will have good value and lots of Ford lovers will love it even more. Good luck with your choices.

Note: A 6 speed automatic will be a lot more difficult to adapt than many of the older non-computer 4 speed overdrives. My 2000 Chevy truck with 4.8V8 and 4 speed OD will run 80-85 at about 2500 rpms and 3.73 gears.