I’m gonna say it’s not necessary. Been running 1.72/1.60 swirl polished chebby valves on a .300” lift cam with stock T (new) springs for years with no indication of float. I run stock rear end gears and spend a lot of time between 2-3k, and have been known to take it up to 4K when feelin frisky
Fully understand, been well past the 3's on a stock bottom end. Are T's like 1911's...stacking tolerances make for worse performance. I am just going by what Dema told me to do, which was get heavier springs to accommodate the ramp design he came up with.
Little progress. Now to ream or hone the bushing in the cross drive. Rebuilder made it "friction" fit.
That’s an interesting variation of the MATCO drive plate as it doesn’t have the typical higher oil filler neck and oil tube to the shaft bushing. What’s your plan for connecting the impulse coupling to the “rubber hose” connection on the drive shaft…? I ran a MATCO on my ol roadster without an impulse and had no issues. Was even able to hand crank on occasion. Watch the gear mesh when assembling the front plate to the motor, I wound up with sumpin like 3 extra pan gaskets under the timing cover to get the gears to mesh correctly
Never thought about the plate variances, you're right, usually they they have the tall filler. Thanks for the heads up on the gaskets, I'll make sure to order a few extra. The gentleman who rebuilt the mag seemed to think he'd be able to make a micarta coupling, if he didn't have something bolt on. How did you handle the timing? Were you able to fine tune through the mag connection? Finally got a "decent" looking head mounted water pump. All brass, actual impeller. Clearances could be tighter, but it is a start.
The taller filler neck had a built in baffle that acted as an oil reservoir and would be filled while adding oil to the engine. You can see the baffle and oil puddle in my pic above. Does yours have a grease fitting for the bushing…? Your plate has the typical MATCO drive shaft in it. Basically it used a piece of 1” ID rubber hose to connect the drive shaft to the mag. The drive shaft end uses a 1/4” screw and nut holding the hose rigid, and the mag end used a cast bronze hose clamp to hold the hose to a 1” diameter hub mounted to the tapered shaft. I ordered a length of straight radiator hose from the local auto parts house, and machined my own hose clamp and mag hub. I’ll see if I still have the hub and hose clamp designs laying around…
If hunting for Winfield intakes takes time, waiting for original art work to pop up, is equally a roll of the dice...the sketch looks like a study for the final.
The good news is it’s been a successful month obtaining some parts for my truck. A Stipe 340 cam, a crank, Mallory Distributor(big thanks to Kevin) and everything I need to get a V8 gear set in my B transmission. I picked up the 39 transmission last summer but it has the small shift fork and synchros. Looks like I’ll get it filled with the better gear set as well. The bad news is realistically I’m not working on the truck until late summer if all goes well. Despite that I’m fortunate to have nearly everything I need to hot rod my little truck. Thanks to all for posting all your stuff, advice and experiences. Also, continued success in all your Banger endeavors!
I just ordered one. They are still doing final testing and will be produced soon. They have to be imported from England. The cost seems reasonable but you will be liable for shipping and taxes. You can message Rotoshim at: orders@rotoshim.com. Warren
Had some good luck today. Picked up an aluminum Winfield for a fair price. I haven’t seen any being sold for a while. Decided to buy and maybe sell the Lion I have to offset the cost. Looks pretty decent. Anybody have a guess on details or own one and care to give an opinion? EDIT: looks like the “flying A” means it’s was made by(for?) Specialty Ford Parts from Rosemead CA.
No kids = dada shop time Gonna get the new Winfield’s cleaned up and final assembled. Then I’ll be building throttle linkage and exhaust while I wait for the cam to be reground…
I heard from an older gentlemen that guys would machine down the OD on the shaft for the A/B oil pump. Is there any reason why they would do this?
Someone asked this question in another thread, but don't think it got answered, so I'll throw it out here- is that a flathead V8 distributor on a banger in this well-known pic from Life Magazine? I've seen the pic dozens of times, but never noticed it before- was it thrifty ingenuity, a "hot" upgrade, etc??? ... and that horn must gurgle in the rain
Retson Yes this is still done today It simply opens up the available area for oil to pass thru the pump Ford put out a service bulletin early in the release of the A model to make the shaft mod Coincidentally Ford also made a change to the pump housing that also increased the flow potential and many just make the shaft mod for either housing hope that helps J
Went to the Goodwood Members Meeting yesterday. Plenty to see and watch. Didn’t take too many pictures but couldn’t resist a few shots of four bangers in the Edwardian pits. Single overhead cam 16v T engine. Benz overhead.
The IG showed a hell of a turn out. Lots of banger goodness. Seems that SF Edge trophy was won by some cat who bolted two bangers together on bit of crooked block or something. One day I'll go.
Beautiful engine pics!! The single stick T is a Craig Hunt (later became Speedway) head. I got to look one over year several years ago and was amazed at the simplicity of the design. Was surprised to find there is a standard T cam and forked rockers under there… Would love to more about the other exotic motors!
Nice! I had an original Peter Helck work sketch that I parted with years ago, the painting of the Simplex pitting at night. Wish I could have kept it, along with a lot of things. Has your new speedster project arrived?
In the (spending money phase) hunt for small bits, carb linkage balls joints, gas / spark control arms, getting stuff rebuilt that I can't do, and so on. Body gets here around the 19th of May. Have the front axle of the CJ2a (Willys flathead, so thread appropriate) all apart, doing the brakes. When I pulled the backing plates off 3 studs pulled out with my fingers. Those studs go into the steering knuckle/u joint housing, and tearing out is a common failing. Sent those out yesterday to get machined and have shouldered studs pressed in from the inside. Mostly cleaning and cleaning and scraping 70 years of New Mexico clay and dirt from everything, just to get at the part that needs to be looked at. Saw a picture of a truck chassis on eBay and thought of you. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3531009181...WHfQWmbS5C&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Follow a couple of the owners on IG, asked one of the Benz gentleman what their speeds were, he said through the second timing point (where ever that is) he was hitting 90. He also said that Julian Mazjub in the Indy Sunbeam was going 97 and Mark Walker in the Darracq was doing 96 mph. Definitely moving along!
Lol- when we were fixing the mistakes on the Vanderbilt Simplex restoration (the timing was WAY off and the jugs had been honed incorrectly), the boss' son told me to jump in for a "quick test drive" (the hood, fenders, and floorboards were off/out)... he was throwing it into every twist and turn of the hilly countryside that he could and took it up to 70 on the straightaways and I was holding on to WHATEVER I could... Lotta respect for the gentlemen who originally did it AND the gentlemen who continue to
I'll be using a model A camshaft, which will still have the A nose on it (gave up, trying to find someone to graft the T nose into it), planning on running straight, cut gears. Rather than worrying about trying to time the engine by drilling the cam gear, think I should be able to time it through the mag drive (coupling). Been mulling how to do this, i'll have the engine on a stand, could mount a degree wheel on the back of the crankshaft instead of the front and have a dial indicator on the intake valve. I could mount the Matco plate, get it shimmed, and and do the fine-tuning. At least that's my idea at this time. What are your thoughts?
I’m not sayin it’s a size thing… but damn! These were delivered 2 months early, and so won’t be going under the Akron-Hed this year…
The Jalopy Journal
