Technical I need help planning my brake system

I’ve installed plenty of brake parts over the years and done plenty of work on brake systems but I’ve never built one from scratch. I’m kind of confused and need a little help getting me over the hump.

40 ford, I am upgrading to disc brakes, bendix rear brakes and dual master cylinder.

The master cylinder has 4 holes to plug brake lines into (two on each side). What needs to go where? I know one goes to the front and then splits between the front wheels. What is the splitter part called?

I was also sent two residual valves. Where do these go?

Thanks! I know I am missing just one or two things in my head that once explained to me it will all click.

 

I'm sure many will answer--have done maybe a dozen 40's this way as well. PM me and I'll do my best to explain and draw a diagram best I can

 

Nice of you to offer!

 

Plug two ports on the same side, use which ever side works best for running the brake lines. If the master is firewall mounted the rear port goes to the front and the front port goes to the back brakes. 3# residual valves are for the front disc brakes, 10 # residual valves are for the rear drum brakes. The proportioning valve goes in line ahead of the residual valve to the rear brakes.

 

Olscrounger and BJR got me going in the right direction. This diagram gave me the visual I need.

what size brake line do y’all recommend? If I am using stock wiring (new from Rhode Island wiring) what do you recommend for a brake light switch? Where is the stock location?

for anyone stumbling onto this thread in the future, this link helped a lot!

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/amp/the-toolbox/braking-components-selection-and-design/28678

 

Something like this in one of the unused M/C ports will work if accessible.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Brak...h-with-Bullet-Receptacles-1-8-NPT,434688.html
Wire size? Probably 14g.
Warren

 

All 3/16" is good for the brake tubing.

You will need tube nuts, including an oversize tube nut kit.

Each of the tube nuts shown above fits a 3/16" o.d. tube, but fits a different sized inverted flare threaded hole.

These eliminate the need for any sort of adapters.

 

Thanks gimpy. I’m****uming speedway is that sort of fitting kit but I’m Not seeing it. I’ll call em Monday.

 

Need something to flare your lines with as well.

 

If you go that way use the port that feeds the front brakes, which is the port to the rear.

 

Local parts supply or shops that do brake work should have nuts, T fittings etc.

 

The fitting kits are available at most Napa, Auto Zone, Advance etc. auto parts stores.

 

Thanks everyone. I should have mentioned I do have the flaring and bending tools. I’ve made individual brake lines before.

 

Here is some info that might help.







There......that should occupy you for a little bit.

 

I think you would be much better off to use one of the mechanical lever arm light switches instead of a hydraulic kind. I like the ones that came on 50-60’s Chevy big trucks. There was a thread here lately that had the part number in it.

Mount it to the underside of the toe board and when the pedal comes up to rest it clicks the switch off.

 

The ports on each side are the same outlet, just two sided so you can use whichever side you prefer, or even use one from each side to feed the front calipers. Could use one side and T it after it leaves the master and the T can go anywhere it's most convenient. I like to T it at the driver's side frame near that wheel, so the brake hose can run to the caliper, and the line can continue to the passenger side.
The adjustable proportioning valve goes into the line headed to the rear drum brakes, and I install them just below the master where they're easy to reach for adjustments.
Residual valves go somewhere in the line between the prop valve and the rear axle, before it splits to both wheels.
I've used both types of brake switches. mechanical and hydraulic/electric. Both worked great for my cars, and never gave me any trouble. I generally use donor pedal setups I scrounge at the wrecking yards, so if it has a brake switch already on the pedal****embly I use it.

 

There is very good info here. Brakes are such a common problem that we need a Brakes subforum.

 

Give Pure Choice in Lake Havasu AZ. a look for fittings, good source.

 

I would use the frame side outlets on the master cylinder, especially if there will be part of the exhaust system on the other side.

I try to use OEM mechanical switches whenever possible.

When that is not possible, such as when it would mean large-scale replumbing, or when I am just quickly fixing a customer's car, I will replace a hydraulic pressure switch.

For those, I use OEM ones I get from the local Harley Davidson shop, that fit 1979-2003 XL, 1971-2007 FL, FLT, FLST, FX, FXST.

 

Chev PU brake light switch. Easily adjustable so the lights go on right away and they never leak.

 

Rich, what’s the part number?

 

An auto electrician I know also used OEM motorcycle ones. The early Ford ones eveyone sells are notorious for failing. I.E. don't work after a while, i.e no brake lights.

 

Why does the rear line have a rubber line where it splits? Does that area around the crossmember move that much? I guess thinking about it as I type this out it actually makes sense.

 

Why are you actually doing your own brake setup?
Warren

 

Standard SLS43.

A SLS40 is similar with the mounting ear in the other direction.

 

Be aware that this has npt threads and will not match one of the unused ports on your master cyl

 

Why do any hotrodders do their own brakes, or any part of the build? Because that's what we do to make them our own, or to learn how to do things on our cars. It's been that way since guys started building hotrods. I'd never consider paying somebody else to do something I could learn to do myself.

 

I will triple the comment on HD switches.

Also, here is an online version of the Edelman fitting catalog. Always a good resource to have. I keep a hard copy on the shelf
Fittings | Plews-Edelmann

 

exactly. I haven’t enjoyed this hobby for 25 years because I pay people to do things for me. I enjoy it because I come up against challenges (such as brakes) and find out how to conquer them. Every car I’ve done I’ve taken further and further in the restoration process. That’s part of my learning process. Don’t worry, the ebrake will be well adjusted.