I have been doing my own brakes on all my cars since the mid sixties. The query from the OP seemed to indicate he was not schooled in this stage of hot rod building and getting advice from the internet is dangerous. He has since added that his abilities are more then first indicated and I hope he is successful in the execution. Warren
I think he was being sarcastic because the OP asked why there was a hose connecting the rear axle lines. Comment that seemed like he didn’t understand the basics of a brake system.
I would reccomend nicop (nickle-copper) brake line. It does not corrode,easy to bend and flair. Note: this is not copper line . It is an alloy made for brake lines. John
I started working on old cars at 13 years old in 1963 when I bought my uncle's old '47 International panel. I knew zero about any car, and I was low on funds working for $10 a day on the farm. I asked all sorts of what were dumb questions of older guys, and most of them were kind enough to not laugh out loud, although some did chuckle a little. Of course there were a few who did tell me I shouldn't be trying this or that because I wasn't experienced enough, and didn't have the right tools. Others told me how to do it, and a couple guys who lived in the neighborhood even offered to lend me tools, or give me a hand. If it wasn't for those who helped and encouraged me way back 60 years ago, I might have given up based on the guys who were negative. I've always tried to help and encourage guys to give things a try. With today's resources it's a lot easier to get it done than it was when I was young and riding my bike around to parts stores, and repair shops begging for answers!
One more question. Any issues using the original split connections at the front and rear? Or should I just buy new?
If the fittings are good shape you sure can use them. Check to see if the inverted flare down inside got deformed when the original lines were tightened in. The brass is what is making the seal, so they might have deformed a bit crookedly. Always use new crush washers where required. Never reuse crush washers. If you are using old fittings, you will need to do all the lines with 1/4”, not 3/16” like was suggested before.
Ah, in that case I’ll go new fittings as I want to use 3/16 line. question on 3/16 line. It looks awfully skinny especially when I compare to the old stuff which you mention as 1/4. Are we talking outside 3/16 or inside dimension of the tubing? Now, I must note that the tubing I have on hand is tubing I’ve had on the shelf for some time and it came with some brake line tools I bought years ago and I probably won’t be using it but the bag says it is 3/16 but I am questioning that. see photos.
That appears to be copper tubing. You can't use that legally or safely. It will crack and split over time. Nicop was suggested earlier and it looks like whitish copper. It is easily available also on Amazon with the appropriate fittings at a very reasonable cost. What is that other dark tubing? It looks like pipe. Warren
Sorry, I should have clarified. The copper tubing I have on hand I am only going to use as a rough draft of the lines. I brought it up because it’s 3/16 like everyone recommends it just seems so tiny in size. I have it laying around on the shelf so why not just use it for mock up and bending and flaring practice. I'll likely never use it anyway. Figure I’ll get the general layout with that and then use the nicop as suggested once I mess up the copper. The tube next to it is the original brake lines I removed. It measures 1/4" OD. Reading alchemy's post, it makes sense that it measures 1/4".
That larger tube is not 1/4". 1/4" is 5/16". The larger tube is not 1/16" larger in diameter than the small one. It appears to be closer to double the diameter. You might have a sample of the old fuel line.
I pulled the car apart. Seemed 100% original inside and out (off road since 1960) and these lines are 100% brake lines! I saved every single part and labeled everything pretty meticulously (or if I didn’t put a label on it I took a photo of it and made notes on the photos in my phone). these were absolutely the brake lines I pulled out. Definitely not fuel (I have that old line too…same size). Maybe at some point someone changed them? But I honestly think they are original. Here’s some more photos. They are the same looking as every other car I’ve worked on (60s - 70s vw buses mostly and some chevys sprinkled in). copper line (3/16, won’t be using)
I see what's giving that illusion, your showing the ends but with the nut still on the larger line with it pulled up tight on the end. It makes the tube look much bigger due to the nut than it actually is. .
well sure but if you look at my last photos it is clearly 1/4 od. All the brake lines laid out too (so as not to confuse with the fuel line…which I also have). But I can see how my first phot was definitely confusing since it was the end with the fitting and flare. Poor photography on my part!
The fitting T at the front crossmember is a great item to try and reuse as it fits the hose bracket, makes a great way to split the two sides, and makes the rubber hose easy to replace on that side because of the banjo bolt. Just saying, it’s a great design, and well work rethinking your wish to go 3/16”. Why do you want to use 3/16?
I did just go out and look at my fuel line. Same diameter as the brake lines. I couldn’t help but notice the flare style on the end of that! I’m sure I’ll ask about that soon too. Is there a reason to only use 3/16 on my new brake line system vs original 1/4” style?
I think multiple people have just suggested that. Here and other various readings and pm’s. Is there a reason NOT to use 1/4”? And funny enough, that T fitting is the only part I can’t seem to find in my stash. I know it’s somewhere though. Hoping to find it so I can inspect it.
It is a fitting with a large hole in the middle for the banjo bolt to pass through, and the inverted flare holes on opposite ends for the IN line from the master and an OUT line to the other front brake. They are available in repro if you can’t find yours.
i replaced my brake and fuel line on my '57 in august. . i used 3/16 on all of it. then after a lot of issues with master cylinders, i installed a dual master from a '67 mustang. for the rear line i capped the ends and pulled them through as opposed to flaring them off the car, i cut and flared the rear side the line on the car. i replaced (or refinished) every part of my brake system. after that i havent had any issues. pardon the rust... but hopefully its a some help despite being a tad newer.
Ok, Mr. Honda. I like my old cars to look old. And anyone who can’t bend 1/4” lines just needs to develop more talent. Whatcha gonna do when it comes time for the fuel line?
Maybe you guys have seen things differently; but the mid-age cars I've come across have had a 1/4" line from the master to the first distribution block, then 3/16" to the front brakes, another 1/4" line to rear hose, and 3/16" lines from the hose to the rear wheel cylinders. I've always felt the engineers had a reason for the run of 1/4" to the rear and have always replicated it. On cars with Ford Lockheed brakes; 1/4" all around as 3/16" doesn't work right. I/we have always used rebuilt or new regular master cylinders; never been impressed with the quality of those repop Corvette master cylinders. Don't care for that new brake line stuff either, regular old steel line makes nice straight runs; isn't hard to make nice bends, flares easily, and the corrosion resistance is no real benefit on a hot rod. Used Imperial bending tools are pretty reasonable in price and work great especially for 5/16" & 3/8" fuel lines.
I usually run 1/4" to the rear, and 3/16" to the front wheels. That's what I've seen on most older cars, so I just copy what the car makers did. But 3/16" everywhere wont be a problem either.
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