Usually there are two tapped holes in the hub for using bolts and a puller. If there are no holes you may want to consider drilling and tapping a couple 5/16" holes in the hub. Sometimes they can be removed by smacking them with your hands...I wouldn't recommend it as you can crack the wheel. Good luck!
Correct way is with the correct puller , it looks similar to a large c clamp part fits under the wheel with special sized jigs to match the wheel surface and not damage it . Tighten the center bolt against the shaft and off it comes . I purchased a NOS puller years ago for 5.00 . The seller only requested “ it’s yours , now explain what it’s used for “
This works sometimes when a puller isn't around (junkyard finds). Take horn ****on ***embly apart and back nut off until it's flush with the shaft. Now this part takes 2 people. One guy sits in the seat and pulls up on the steering wheel, second guy takes a large punch and a hammer and smacks the end of the shaft hard and smartly. I've removed several this way and usually 3 smacks or less. BTW the nut keeps the guy in the seat from smacking himself in the face with the steering wheel and protects the end of the shaft. YMMV..... ..
Word of caution, but back the nut off a few turns (not for the wheel flying off) so you don’t mushroom the end of the shaft. I have a large puller I use, the end “spins” and fits over the nut (why I leave the nut on and jut backed off to not have any threads exposed). I tighten down, smack the nut on the puller (where it’s tightened from). If it doesn’t pop, tighten a bit more. Keep repeating until it “pops” loose. Newer stuff comes off without a hammer blow or two. Old stuff I have to work at a bit more. As mentioned if no tapped holes, put two in 180 apart from the center of the shaft.
You can drill and tap two holes in the hub to use a modern puller on it. I have a vintage Snap On Ford wheel puller tool that has yokes that go under the wheel. If I didn't loan it out already, I would offer to loan it to you. Good luck. They can be a bear at times, but drilling and tapping method works too.
Yep, have always used this method. Put my two knees down at the bottom of the wheel and push up. Take one free hand and pull on the top of the wheel, and the rap the nut with a large hammer. Never hurt a wheel or threads. I always use anti-seize when I re-install the steering wheel on the threads and spline. Bob
Old pal (RIP) Johnny Dugan was a stout little dude, tough as his name. He and I went to Tex's Auto Wreckers (San Jose, CA) to get a steering wheel for his 'new' F1. We found a '51 F1, removed horn ****on, loosened nut. Johnny sat in drivers seat, said "Watch it, Mike..." I 'watched it', as he planted both feet on the toe board, pulled up on right, then on left...both hands on the wheel. I doubted, then wheel came up 1/4" with a "Pop!" Johnny literally 'Pulled the steering wheel'.
we wound up cutting a piece of tube, cut a notch in it and used a 3 finger puller. It bugged up the whell but that didn't matter to me. If I wanted to save the wheel I would have drilled and tapped the 5/16 holes anf used the conventional puller Thanks for all the responses!
Made this myself out of a piece of flat iron..10min job just turn the bolts equally in and wheel comes off. but take off nut first
I worked at a dealership with a small guy who could pull a steering wheel by hand. He did the left/right method. He told me he could feel it move just the slightest amount and then he would pull on the other side.
Never ******ed up the threads with the nut off? I always just back the nut off a few turns, let my puller do it’s thing on the nut.
no, not till now, but my steering wheel hasn't been sitting for 30+years on the shaft so comes off hard, but not 30+ years hard. not sure if you can screw the bolts in when the nut is on, but leaving it on if possible is a good idea.
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