McMaster-Carr has a great ***ortment of gasket material. Not sure you want a soft gasket there because of the oil galley and the risk of blowing it out. Perhaps the 1/32 thk fiber matrerial: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/g...ber-gasket-material/?s=sheets+gasket+material
Throttle linkage does not necessarily need 4 rods, 9 arms, 9 joints and 4 shafts. While that one looks shiny and fancy with a lot going on, there are an awful lot of places for problems. Really cool **** on a show car, but for racing or touring, simpler is generally better. That same job could have been done with 2 rods and 4 joints.
Hard to argue with experience. I am getting ready to tackle a 4 carb set up, would be very interested in what you have built and how you tuned it. Thank you for sharing!
You can cut 10/32 threads on ford spark and throttle rods and buy 10/32 Heim joints..make them any length you want
I'm an old sprint car guy. We all used Hilborn injection on small block Chevy engines. At the time nobody had a camera on a phone in his pocket that took free pictures, haha. Consequently, I don't have a lot of pictures of what we were doing. Basically, what most of us were using was a single bellcrank with the shaft going through the firewall lengthwise to the car with an arm on each side of the firewall. In the ****pit one rod went from the pedal to the arm. On the engine side one rod went from the bellcrank arm to an arm on the throttle shaft at the back of the engine. Then the Hilborn set up had a rod from one shaft to the other and a rod to the metering block. Point is, it should be as simple and strong as you can make it and don't let it have any chance to go over center and lock open. With 4 carbs, depending on how they are laid out, you might get away with one common shaft on bearings that is parallel to the throttle shafts with an arm and rod on it for each carb and an arm and rod to whatever is on the firewall. For ideas you might go visit some of the light airplane shops in your area. Little planes are loaded with linkages that need to be light, strong and 100% reliable. I still have a buddy racing sprints, in the next day or two I'll swing by his place and see what they're running for throttle linkage now.
My working career was mostly repairing and modifying heavy equipment, mobile and stationary. Over 40 years or so I got a lot of experience with linkages. One thing to keep in mind is that any linkage arm should be as close as possible to 90 degrees from the rod it operates when the linkage is at the middle of it's stroke. That will keep the leverage the same throughout the travel and also probably prevent you from setting up an over center situation.
This is off topic, so I won't be surprised if it gets removed. Actually, it started as a 1963 International Travel-all, so maybe it's not off topic, haha. Anyway, a couple months ago I switched to a different hydraulic valve on my old home grown loader/snowplow/forklift. At the same time I decided I needed to move the joystick control to a better location. These pictures were taken during construction and engineering phase, so the welds needed to be finished and the hitch pin clips were replaced with cotters, etc. before I called the job completed. The joystick pivot was a steering u-joint from an old Ford pickup. The linkage arms coming off it are welded to the u-joint quite a ways from the centerline of the pivot to avoid damaging the bearings. But the location of the rod end of the arm is on centerline of the u-joint cross. That way, swinging the lever fore and aft will not affect the linkage of the valve spool that operates when you swing the lever side to side.
I completely agree! But if I wanted simple, I would have put a Stromberg on it… The original plan was to use a straight link connecting the 2 carbs and a single link to the pedal. Simple, but not possible as many things on this car are already decided, and I am trying not to change too much. While this stuff was still on the bench I figured the Winfield bellcrank might solve the problem, so I made up a batch. Now I have em and like em, so might as well use em! I tried running a continuous bellcrank shaft thru the 2 carbs, but found that it would bind easily. So looked for a coupler that was simple and effective. The initial plan was to create a wavy coupling as found on dual SU carb setups… but after much effort was not happy with the fit, finish, and rigidity of the coupling I had created. The cross pin connection link was found on early SU setups too. The linkage is not as simple as I would like… but it doesn’t have any sketchy welds or funky Lokar **** on it, so I guess I did sumthin right
Kevin, I certainly wasn't trying to detract from your set-up, it looks really cool. I was just saying that simpler is generally more dependable and usually much easier. A lot of guys, maybe not on this thread, don't have a good understanding of the geometry involved in linkages and could easily build something undependable and possibly dangerous. That obviously doesn't apply to you.
So far this month I got my engine dismantled. The block has been repaired at some time in its life. My guess is that it froze at some point. The cylinder walls definitely have some wear. I don’t see a reason why it can’t be used. A few questions though. 1. The oil pan rails on the block are not threaded on the water inlet side and some of the valve side, requiring a nut and bolt. Is this normal? 2. The block is countersunk where the fuel pump bolts on. I ***ume it didn’t come this way. 3. I need a cylinder bore gauge. Can you recommend one? 4. Would you use this block?
#1 No, they should be threaded. I would heli-coil or install thread inserts. #2 They did not come that way, It shouldn't be a problem unless there are no threads left. #3 This is like the one I use. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3338121592...%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675&epid=10024833983 #4 I would have it pressure check it before doing ant thing to it.
Thank you Dan! I've located a pair of V-8 gears and will start playing with them pretty soon. I think what I'll do is machine a cam gear nut to accept the V8 cam gear nut similar to how Charlie Yapp does on his front cover. Your fronty impeller looks fantastic, I've yet to chuck it in a lathe but I sure am excited to get started!
As you know, that’s a diamond B, it appears it doesn’t have you usual cracks from 2&3 exhaust valve to cylinder. There are others on here with more knowledge than me (hell sometimes my dog does) but I would do hard seats and sleeves if it checks out pressure testing as mentioned above. Seats and sleeves ‘freeze’ any crack from causing an issue.. if you have the sheckels..then again, is your wallet is fat go Burtz, it has the lower end of your dreams..
This car belongs to a mate up the road, it's very neat with lots of cool details. He call's it a trunkster. The body b pillars back is fabricated from GM Bedford truck sheet metal (40's) he's 6'4" so needed to get creative The hood bows are re-purposed cart bows which he steam bent to get the radius's right for the application.
Thanks for your response. I will have the block pressure tested and go from there. I’ll also purchase a cylinder bore gauge.
Funny, I think my dog had more sense than me most of the time. He’s not obsessed with 90 year old engines and vehicles. I get the Burtz idea but I’m hell bent on using Model B engines. After all my truck is a Model B. Hopefully another banger car finds its way to me in the somewhat near future. The truck is priority number one. My ultimate plan is to build a nice flathead and a nice OHV engine. Currently the engine in my truck has issues which I have a good running B to replace it with. I’ll tear it’s existing engine down and see what it’s insides look like. Fortunately I’ve got some engine options.
You guys get pretty fancy trucks now days, haha. This is what they had me in during the second half of the 80's. The old International was a pretty good truck though. Don't remember ever having to work on it instead of the money makers.
First time posting in here and still trying to learn what I can about these but thought I'd share my weekend. Me and some friends went to the Arkansas Mile that the ECTA puts on and had the opportunity to make a p*** in mine. It went faster in the half mile than any of us expected but was an absolute blast in a bone stock banger.
I worked a few dirt spreads back in the day too, nights and saturdays doing edges.. no wonder I’m stove up.. that pretty truck was my last one, ****, I ran a bunch of different colored trucks, mainly cause I couldn’t keep my mouth shut, if I woulda just fixed the tractor I woulda been fine ..old fords is all I’m good for anymore, chasing big iron is for the kids to do.
You ain’t alone brother, Got a couple of diamond B’s one was crack repaired and rebabitted by the cat who owned it, a master machinist at Aerojet..still can’t identify the babbit compound he used, it’s coal black
A friend of mine sent me these pictures of this 34 5 window, mechanical brakes and all. wish I knew more about it.
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