Projects built lots of cars, but never a 32 roadster...

That's a great idea, thanks!

 

Finally warmed up a bit...got it all plumbed. A few more things to do, like ftame welting, install the exhaust and e-brake lines, the the body goes on!

 

Before the body goes on:

Much of the frame gets built from the top, but once the body goes on, it can only be serviced from down below.

Check everything over to be sure it is actually serviceable from below.

Ask me how I know?

 

Are you putting rubber bump stops in the C notches? Will the brake lines running on the top side of the axle get smashed on a hard bump?

 

I’ve done a few 9” rears in 32s, but a buddy of mine just turned me onto mopar b body rear axle brake line hardware. 1st time using it on my current project and it sure seems to work out well. I can add some more pics if folks interested in seeing the bits used, but as noted above you might want to ensure everything is safe from bottoming out and that you can service everything from the underside. The brake lines along the top of your axle scares me and being able to yank your 3rd member as easily as possible should be considered (that’s why I went on the backside on this project).

 

I'll 2nd what the two posts above said about the brake line. You need to re-do that.

 

If that crashes, I have bigger problems...
There is less distance between the top of the rear-end center and the floor of the body (3.25") than between those brake lines and the c-notch (3 3/4"). There's probably more of a chance of the brakes lines getting hit by the exhaust pipe where it goes up over the rear-end.

I weigh 275 and stood on the rear spreader bar, then jumped up and down - the c-notches went down no more than 1".

Does the rear suspension on cars with this setup really travel much? It has a Posies transverse rear leaf spring.

 

Yes it will. When you least expect it. Mark my words, at some point you will have that axle use all the travel available. Even if the pumpkin is going to hit first, who’s to say you don’t have one tire hit a bump and the other doesn’t?

 

If your rear only travels an inch, you’re going to have a shit ride. You need those inches.

 

Don’t forget than when you turn a corner, you’re going to have body roll. Take a corner a little too hard that has a bump in it, and yeah there goes your brake line. I’m sure you don’t want to take the time to redo it…but redo it.

 

Scott,
Remember, with a full tank of gas hanging way behind the rear axle your rear ride height will be lower. Fill the tank then do your spreader bar jump and you will be surprised. My ride is different with a full tank of gas vs almost empty, although I have a 16 gallon tank. My .02$ is move the brake tubes.

 

Damn you guys

 

More better brother!

 

I'm glad you guys pointed out that potential problem with the brake lines - I never would have considered that!

One of the reasons why the HAMB is so great.

 

Yes it happens

 

WOW! Cant argue with that!

 

OK...got the hard side done this evening
Went ahead and ducked it under the exhaust pipes too (there's certainly the propensity for the axle to crunch into the exhaust pipes when I hit a big bump too)

 

I got the brakes bled tonight and luckily had no leaks - I'm having trouble getting a stiff pedal though.
Master cylinder is a Corvette type unit made by Pete and Jake's for four-wheel drum brakes.
Rear drums are stock for a 9 in Ford in the front drums are reproduction Lincoln.
I have residual valves both front and back and they are mounted close to the master cylinder.
I've bled all four corners twice and when you pump the pedal a few times, it gets stiff and holds - so that tells me there are no leaky wheel cylinders or anything like that. If I let the pressure off the brake pedal, and leave it sit for a few seconds, the brake pedal is no longer stiff and comes close to bottoms out. Any suggestions?

 

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder first?

 

They don't make them. Neither does Speedway, but everybody sells them.

What psi valves? Not necessarily the problem though.

Bench bleed is a good suggestion. Having said that and without jumping to conclusions, these off shore made 'Corvette' m/c's often seem to have problems. I don't know why they're so popular. Maybe because that's what Speedway etc. sell?

 

Yep

 

Wilwood, red valves
Jerry at Pete and Jakes said he has these master cylinders made just for my application (manual, four wheel drum).
Yes, I bench bled the master cylinder.

 

Can you isolate front and rear to see where the issue is?

 

10 psi. That is okay.

Mmm.

 

You have air in the system somewhere. I use a vacuum bleeder but you have to seal the bleeder valves so it doesn't draw air in through the bleeder valve threads when loose. A pressure bleeder would be a good choice since you don't have the body on and the master cylinder is accessible. "Speed Bleeders" are another option if you are by yourself.

 

How would I do that? The MC is a split unit

 

Can I power, pressure or speed bleed the system if I have residual valves?

 

I like the speed bleeders too. In addition to making the regular operation of bleeding easier because you don’t need to continually tighten and loosen the bleeder, they have a sealant on the threads to keep fluid from seeping out or air sucking in.