It`s alive also - just a raw video of my 4 Banger up and running, first run with coolant -please be kind as I am new to this stuff !
I suspect I have the same problem with my torque wrench on one engine with a almost thee year old Best 503 gasket with 6 blown areas. Will try to find a calibration service quickly!
I seem to remember a thread a couple of years ago about how to calibrate your torque wrench your self at home with a vise & a fish scale (to measure how many lbs ??), but I don't remember where it was from or how long ago.?? The thing that impressed me was that you could easily check/adjust even the "El Cheapo" swap meet or HF wrenches to be reasonably accurate & repeatable within +/-2% !!
The F.A.S.T. Time Trials will take place as planned June 24th at the historic Santa Margarita Ranch, 15 miles North of San Luis Obispo, CA. This 14,000+ ranch is just off the 101 Highway. The 1/10 mile course is laid out on the ranch runway. It's electronic timing goes out several decimal points. Best time has been set just lower than 8 seconds. If you don't have a car that fits any of the F.A.S.T. Classes; you can run for time only as long as it's pre-1935. This event is your choice in the West if you don't want to tow all the way back to Nebraska; and be dogged by weather (including tornados) all along the way! (I've been there; do that when towing to Indianapolis in June)
Had all of mine done before I retired, the shop did them for free. One was a 60’s snap on 0 to 50 lb dial type..cost them 400 bucks to rebuild that one.. it’s good for small work.
This is what was inside the engine. The crank looks good but it was grooved in the center somewhere along the way. Anything you guys can tell me? I do know I should keep the main caps, oil pump and shield. Anything else? Thanks in advance.
A little strange that the crank is drilled and that the rods appear to have the normal splash oil holes still intact. Looks like a good start though!!
As Dan says, interesting, a drilled and apparently keyed crankshaft. Might have had a balancer on it, sheared the stk key (no idea) and then cut another keyway. Show us more of the block J
It seemed to me that the crank was drilled for no reason, because there seems to be no oil delivery mods. I don’t know if it is beneficial for babbitt bearing mains. The gear on the crank is keyed. There are pictures of the block that I posted earlier this month on this thread. I’ll put up a picture of the pulley that was on the crank. Excuse my ignorance but I’m learning as I go with these bangers. I’m all in at this point.
Dean Not to worry, we all start somewhere Jim Brierley has a book out that is a pretty good source of information It is not a restoration guide instead it is a practical guide to run these with some modernized thinking it probably didn’t hurt to run the drilled crank on the Babbitt without blocking the rod dippers or pressurizing the system in the block you have a decent starting point, just determine what you expect from the motor buildup from there J
The front of that crank pulley looks like it has a similar spline as the Universal joint behind the stock transmission. Could it be that some redneck wanted to make a poor-boys dual engine hot rod?
More likely it was an industrial front pulley for running a power take off of some sort. Just a guess.
My dad put an engine in his 29 that he bought from a ski lodge that came off a rope tow when they switched it to electric. These engines powered everything.
I thing that was a farm engine from a combine, windrower or stationary engine. I would bet it is a diamond block too. That is not a bad thing.
Thank You! I’m just getting my ducks in a row right now. The block from the engine I just pulled apart is going to be dropped off at the machine shop for pressure testing when I pickup my flywheel/pressure plate from balancing. I still have to pull the existing engine out of my truck and install my “good” engine in it’s place. I will then pull that engine apart as well. I’ll then have a better idea of what direction I will go in. I have a lot to learn but Model B engines is where I’m staying. I have the largest collection of Model B engines, parts, etc in the neighborhood.
It is a Diamond block. I measured one of the pistons but I don’t know if it’s standard or oversized. It also is a Ford piston as well as the rods. Should I keep the rods and caps? I assume the valves, guides, springs and lifters are junk.
Dan McEachern at dmcgears@yahoo.com Dan makes other high performance parts for A,B and T fords, especially high-quality timing gears. He also participates in this forum. He sells billet steel main caps that are what you are looking for.
Lookin good John! Would you mind sharing what kind of steel…? I have been considering making a few T cams and was told that thru hardened S2 is the bees knees…
Thanks Kevin, I have too many irons in the forge... These blanks are 8620 stl, I have made S7 blanks also, in fact one of those is one. IMHO, the toolsteel cams are not worth the trouble. The guys I do some work for ran some in the Top Fuel cars and broke a couple. While the lobes might survive at a harder surface face, I would think the torsion and flex of "T" cam would break easier, being as to how long and spindly and small in diameter it is. Of course it will also depend on how much spring tension there is on the valves, lobe ramp profile acceleration and of course how fast you try to twist it. I have been using the 8620 cams and not had any issues, just make sure to get the penetration depth on the carburizing heat treatment to around .090 on the lobe and bearings. Keep us in the loop on progress, John
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