Projects My 31 cdan before, disaster, and rebuild.....lol... S$$$ happens...

found a 41/23 split
made over 70 hp..

 

correct...

 

my whole objective is to get around the oil pump, and still look good, and I want the split exhaust going into twin lake pipes... and the sound.... gaining 2 hp @ 3500 rpms is an extra, but not a major concern...

if I wanted it to go fast, i'd take the 4 banger out like I did for years....this car is being built to haul 4 people to the down town bar and hot rod meet up in havasu,..... more of the goal is to not be cookie cutter in any way...don't see too many traditional pre war type hot rods that are more doors...

 

THIS MODEL a WAS BUILT IN THE 50'S,... HAS A 392 HEMI bakersfield oil pump industrial motor...

should have keep it.. never listen to doctors,.. better off going to the vet...

 

Still a 180*/540* interval

 

all I'm hoping for is that I get exhaust every time the plug fires...

what I really wanna know is the oil pump..... is it a fabed up custom piece, or over the counter buy and fly?????

 

my old 34 w/ a hemi..

 

CCE digger w/ full hanna body

 

sooo. I got another oil pump question... my motor seems to leak alot out of the rear main.. with the pan off,... I noticed that the little drip tube on the rear main was missing,.. I was told that with that missing it will make the rear main leak more?????? true or false?????

 

also, the little thumb screw on the top of the filter looks like a pressure setting???

maybe the oil pressure is set too high????

sure wish I could find someone that knows this system....

 

so at 540 degrees, i should be able to fab this cooker on my headers and have steamed clams when I get to the lake, could you post a pic of the header you built???

 

thanks for the reply,... all the over drives on model a's I've seen had a lever shifter... the push button works smooth in any gear up or down...

 

now new problem... I got a flange to build the header, but my manifold has the flange cut to fit a cast iron manifold... so now no good way to bolt the header on... I was gonna take it to the shop, cut the flanges off,... and weld new full flanges on,.... then I came across this.. a tattersfield down draft, stromberg carb manifold new... 159 bucks..... I own it , send it now...

here's a link...
Tattersfield Ford Model A Single Dual Throat Carb Intake Manifold Stromberg (artboil.com)

 

The "look" is perfect. Henry should done this at River Rouge plant. Love your A.

 

thanks for the kind words...


also,.... have you ever seen a oil pump set up like the one on my motor???

 

so the sound I'm after is with the split to sound like 2 harleys running side by side,and at idle to have a cammed motor sound...potato, potato, potato potato ....never done it that way so we'll see... also want the reversion back rap when I let off the gas..(popcorn popping) the lake pipes will be straight 48'' on each running board.... some times you try something that no one else has and it works, or you find out the reason why no one else tried it....my son builds stainless headers and exhaust ,

 

Understand, looking forward to hearing it run!
The extractor's on my car are 4 into 1. Have often thought about a twin system!

 

Yes, it is a stationary engine dizzy

Your oil pump is an early V-8 modified to fit your banger motor...there are various ways to do this and I haven't seen one like yours before...but I can see that it would work. The V-8 gears are taller than the A/B oil pumps....so more volume out of the V-8 pump.
The oil discharges out the top of the pump and the fitting in the side of the block where the fitting is, that is piped to the filter housing, for a full flow filter. The outlet is piped to an external relief valve...that dumps excess pressure in the timing gear cover. The rest of the oil goes into a galley under the valve cover to oil the mains and cam journals. The place to put an oil pressure gauge would be in this line. Stiner tractor has some good gauges for this with install kits too. You want the oil pressure not to exceed 35psig.
Your rear main will leak with the drain tube missing. The drain tube is meant to be under the oil level in the pan....otherwise the crank case pressure can blow oil out the main cap..and the back of the engine.
You need the B drain tube installed first before you get carried away trying to make it leak free.
Also look at your valve cover....it can leak when pressurized like this.
I use Loctite 5699 sealant both sides of the gasket...make sure you add an opening in the gasket for the oil inlet...also the bolts need to be sealed.

This is getting long Good luck and don't have any more fires...get you a fire extinguisher in the car...pronto

Larry

As for exhaust scavenging on a Model B banger....not much will happen and the siamese intake ports are also a limiting factor for performance...but there are tricks
You have a really cool ride and in the banger world, that engine is really nice...inserted and pressure oiled.
Don't know about the rods, if the crank is drilled

 

Damn buddy, thanks a million,...

when i bought the car,.. the guy said it was A motor and the way to tell was the skinny oil filler tube,
didn't want to argue with him till I got the title......

I got the B motor tube, just have to drop the pan again... I'm gonna plastic gauge the bearing also to see where it's at.... also on the pump it squirts oil on the cam gear...

thanks again, if you're in vegas hit me up... cold ones on me...

they ran the oil pressure gauge line in the bottom of the lifter cover...seems to work.. I had to do 2 cut outs on the gasket... never had leaks there,.. but she runs 45 on the gauge cold.... and 25 once warmed..

 

45 PSI is a little high...adjust the pressure regulator and 10 at idle is fine.
The A engine has a drain tube on the valve cover side and the B does not. Easiest way to tell at a glance.
You got quite a score in my mind...looking again it looks like the crank has been drilled for pressure rods because the dippers are plugged as best I can tell. Confirm that when you pull rod caps. If so, I drill the dipper tray so the oil returns to the pan faster to keep the level up on the drain tube and to the oil pump.
Also, looking at your engine, you have a stock B head. The compression ratio is about 4.5:1 with a stocker.
It also has an adapter for a V8 water pump form the B head.
The fastest way to build horsepower is a higher compression head. There are some ropops out there reasonable but with your inserted engine 7:1 would be no problem.
As for the exhaust....a stock manifold is good up to about 75 HP or double what the stock engine was...cool factor is another thing.... and you have the technology...
I might have an excuse to load up in Cabriolet and bang over to Las Vegas
Bangers are fun

Larry

 

you need longer studs and some brackets made from angle iron. My water jet buddy cuts them for me

 

I have a place in havasu, with a pool and a boat..160 miles closer...let me know when.... also vegas place has a pool...

heres the havasu house, I own both house's but have a renter in one to keep an eyeon things

 

OK, but it depends on where the car is going to be.....

 

I'm doing it for havasu, and i would just trailer it there anyways....hope to have it done soon...my 32 roadster is there now and I wanna brig it back to vegas... how soon would you be comming??? 100* in vegas and havasu already...

 

Tool

 

thankyou.....

 

That's a deal on that manifold. I don't really need one but I might order 1

 

You ordered the intake from the link you provided? The website sells arts and crafts supplies, baby items and model a manifolds...? Sounds fishy that's why I ask before ordering. Thanks

 

they probley buy out bankrupt, over stock items and probley why the price is soo cheep...