My 37 ford coupe door latch slide does not stay out to keep the door closed. I about shit turning a corner when my door opened into the on coming traffic. Is there a hidden spring which keeps the dead bolt in place??? See video.
Latch bolt should have a return spring that keeps the bolt out in a latched position when the handle is not being pulled. I'd suggest pulling the assembly out and verifying nothing is broken. Heavy grimey grease can gum up the works, clean it up and add fresh clean grease.
this one?? It seems to work correctly. But I was thinking this was the spring that pushes the handle back in place when you lock the door????
The curly spring inside the latch, not the handle. Remove the latch from the door and you will see. https://bobdrake.com/products/1936-late-37-door-latch-spring?_pos=5&_sid=98eafe731&_ss=r
The springs are re-popped and available through most of the ford dealers, the spring in the latch when replaced gets the outside door hanle in the horizontal position as well.
On order. 15 yrs ago I bent the door handle stem to straighten out the handle in a level position. Looks like I’ll be bending it back into shape soon.
When you are in there, check all the guide pins and the slots that slide on them. I don’t think any of the guide pins are reproduced, but you can probably substitute the end of a bolt. Along with some weld and file work to straighten the edge of the slot.
the springs suck to change. I did the pass side last year on my 39, but after the new spring, a clean, polish and lube of the latch man does it work smooth as glass.
You can turn the slide pins a half turn and get good metal. Requires a spot weld after the turning. Chuck ? Starts with a K on the Ford barn has correct springs
Finally removed my latch and while it’s soaking in some degreaser. I have a few questions….. It appears the spring behind this latch is broken. Correct?? Next how do I access that spring with everything pinned in place? Do I grind off the pinned backside?? See pics and video.
It appears as though there are actually two different springs in this assembly. Correct?? Has anyone had to replace the spring under that plate?? Did you Grind off the swaged pins to access it?
I have never repaired that year, but yes it seems that removing the guide pin would allow you to lift the striker up and put the new spring in between there.
Well shit….. Yes removing the pins got me to the hidden spring. Yes it was broken. But…… The spring doesn’t match the one I ordered for this car. Now I’m onto a search to find one.
I may try heating and bending the new one but I’ve noticed it also has extra spring tension with three loops instead of two. TIG weld the broken tab???? Being a spring material I wonder how long it would last???? Let’s see….. I’m 70 now…. In the next 15 yrs I will probably open that door a 100 times a year?? That’s 1500 times before I eat dirt.
I believe I found two here. eBay…. Free shipping. I may just live to be 90 with a working door and no bungee cords.
yes I believe your right Rich B. These replacement springs were marked 38-40. So now we know some of these latches are interchangeable. Here it is in action with two pics of the welded pins in back. Worked perfect. thanks everyone for your help.
I heard somewhere that the "double" spring '38-'40 latch was commonly used as an upgraded replacement for earlier "single" spring latches.
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