Technical Little tips and tricks for garage hobbyists.

In case you missed the mention of the plate beveler, this is it.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=WHWyPlI3C6I&embeds_referring_euri=https://www.protoolreviews.com/&source_ve_path=Mjg2NjY&feature=emb_logo

Never think of using a wood cutter against steel, just the spinning action power source with guides and steel cutters chucked up in a 1/2” router.

 

Yes the beveler does a nice job. In this case the part is physically restrained and the tool is what is moved about........similar to using a router. The weight of the tool helps with any kickback and its taking a relatively small cut which can be followed by successive cuts. It uses special replacable carbide cutters rather than a single high speed steel cutter, which is a definite plus. The replacement carbide inserts come in packs of 10 and cost about $180. These are the same type of carbide inserts that are used in lathe and milling machine tools, and they are much better. It turns 12,000 rpms which would ruin a high speed steel tool, but the carbide is some tough stuff. For the cost ($2,000/$2700), I would prefer to buy a lathe or milling machine because I could do many more things with them. Like I said, it does cut steel and appears to work very well.

Note: When I say "physically restrained", either the parts own weight or possibly some unseen tack welds to hold the pipe.

 

Aluminum has about the same machineablity as oak. I have used a router to round edges on aluminum. It may chatter some but it is easy to smooth out later. Be extra careful of chips.

 

Glad to hear that. I have a lot of experience with red oak on my router table. I just bought a couple of 2' x 1/2" x 3/4" aluminum to try to make some interior trim for the doors in my T and was wondering how it would go. I was planning to use the fence and take off only a little at a time. Kinda scary, but I will be using the foam bottom push paddles.

 

Lubricants help when cutting aluminum. Somewhere in the dark corners of my mind, I seem to remember that paraffin (wax) helps when cutting aluminum with a router or circular saw. Or not....after all...dark corners....

 

Be aware, it's really easy to fill up the motor on your router with aluminum chips. They're a pain to get back out.

 

I didn't think about that. I have a pretty strong vacuum on the table, but I still get a lot of saw dust in the motor. It blows out easily with the air nozzle. Aluminum chips maybe not so much. Plus, wood doesn't conduct electricity. I think I can come up with something simple to fix that.

 

It should work, but be sure the aluminum is fastened to the work surface. Maybe make it a little longer than needed and use some countersunk screws to fasten it in place. Might start with a small radius and work up to a larger radius.. Maybe a fan blowing on the aluminum to scatter small alum chips.

 

I use a hand held router and clamp the work piece. I have not had a problem with chips doing it this way.

 

Being a former Fire truck mechanic , I had lots of dealing with aluminum, drilling, cutting , machining, etc. Rapid tap makes a special cutting fluid that makes working with aluminum a breeze. Simple oil doesn’t seem to work on aluminum. This fluid can be found at most any industrial supply house!





Bones

 

Short video showing the light passes I had mentioned in my original post

 

End results

 

I was using my drill press and a counter sink bit on a thick aluminum brace I was building. I experienced some chattering so I used a "Rotobroach" lubricant stick that I got to use with a spot weld cutter. It worked great.

 

WD-40 is a pretty good cutting fluid for aluminum.

Gary

 

In high school I worked in a glass shop and we would build windows and doors for commercial installs. All of the frames were made out of extruded aluminum. We cut all of them with a miter saw and carbide blade. Spray the cut area with WD40 and chop away, cut was very clean and quick. Definitely wear eye and ear protection!

 

I have ruined a few cheap yard sale table saws cutting aluminum & concrete blocks with whatever blades I needed. Too much crap falls down into a table saw for them to hold out for long. But if they are cheap enough what the heck? Good tables, fences, & guides make for nice cuts.

 

Kerosine is best when machining Ali.

 

Did you ever turn the saw blades backwards to cut aluminum? Works on that and plastics.

 

I did on plastic but not aluminum. I've been reading a little about micro plastics lately. Scary stuff I'd never even thought of.

 

I needed to measure the height of an inner rocker panel, floor in place. I used a big C clamp to reach around the rocker and set it on the top and bottom of the inner piece. I then removed the clamp and used a tape measure to measure the gap. Exactly 6". A C clamp is exactly the same as a micrometer in principal, so why not? It worked for me!

 

I had to install some springs in a independent front end, still mounted on the car, where I couldn't use the weight of the car to compress the spring, and couldn't use internal or external spring compressors . I got a big ratchet strap and wrapped it around both wishbones, and used a floor jack to position the lower wishbone up to about 45 degrees.
At that point the strap was adjusted up tight, and cranked up until the ball joint nut could be screwed on.

 

I hate working with springs under tension.

 

Garage step stool, car seat height adjustment, toddler step to reach bathroom sink and won’t slip with rubber anti-slip pads on sturdy legs. And a 47 year old 2x4 step stool for top down (added height angle) photos in photo shoots as well as a indestructible seat for our son.

Hello,

54 years ago, we were taking photos and developing them in the dark room. I kept using a small step ladder and each time I got up near the top it was wobbly. The on site photo locations made it so I had to be on the ball and everything had to go step by step, ever so smoothly. So, I did not want to fall and make a big scene, so that small step ladder bit the dust. Then I used a heavy duty orange crate/milk crate with steel reinforced corners and supports for a step up angle. It was a stable platform to take a slightly higher angle than the normal ¾ rear/front photo that was popular in car photos.

The photos with a different angle gave my photos a different look and hopefully it would make an impression on the editors as “something new” instead of the normal point and shoot array. When I showed the higher angle photos to the owners of the cars and motorcycles, they liked them and wanted a set for their own collection. Each hot rod family got their share of photos printed out for their albums.

But, this new angle photography created another source of income if the owners wanted some for gifts and home displays. Custom frames from redwood/cedar slats, inset floating photos mounted within the frame, but looking like a floating photo away from all sides of the custom frame.

Jnaki

Jump up many years and another need popped up in our hectic family world. My wife had a low sporty car and it was a given that we would keep it forever. So, it was our project over the years. When our son was born and at the time car seats consisted of a GM factory model that was rated tops for safety in all cars, when strapped down correctly, not in just GM cars. The seat was made for rear facing locations and allowed the driver to see the sleeping or waking face of the baby/toddler, etc.

There was a size limit and when it was too low in the front passenger seat and the rear seat area, I made a 2x4 stool. At first, it was a stool just to raise the toddler safety seat higher, so he could see out of the windows. But, it was the only way to get the seat belts/shoulder harness to work correctly. Then it was convenience for us to make adjustments and to get him in/out without breaking our backs. Especially in the tight back seat area.

As his toddler era was coming along, he used the stool as his kitchen nook dining area seat for messy ice cream in the hot summers and lunches at the kid's table. If it got dirty or had a series of drips, the polyurethane coating protected the wood and was an easy wipe off.

Over the years, it stayed in the garage as a step stool to reach the taller cabinets. the older we got, the more stable a short ladder or platform was necessary. But, when our granddaughter was getting to the toddler stage, she needed a little help to get to the faucets to brush her teeth. So, up comes the old stool, totally cleaned off and still solid polyurethane coating protecting the wood. She can now, step up to any of the sinks to easily turn on/off, the faucets and brush her teeth.

It also acted as a seat in the TV room to set things on for snacks and stand up toys that needed a flat, secure area. So, two generations of total family uses and still going strong for a couple of old folks to continue their protected pandemic lives. Step up and be counted…

But, now with many garage clean outs to our credit over time, this solid 2x4 step stool is still functioning and is being put to good use by a couple of old folks out in the yard, when planting new bushes, flowers and trees. It is low enough to the ground, but high enough to work comfortably without back pain. Perfect height for working on replacement electrical wall plugs and detailed work on new baseboards, too. YRMV

 

On the subject of step stools, a guy made me 2 of these. They are plywood, lightweight, and with a slot in the top to pick them up. Very handy, and a must for every gasser builder !

 

Looks similar to the "apple boxes" used on film sets!

 

Or short guys!

 

I made 4 of the step boxes. They can support the car, useful for checking pinion angle,etc.
On the subject of springs: 55 Chevy hood springs needed to be expanded for installation. Held in a vise, bent by hand to one side. Washers inserted. Bent the other way and more washers. The spring spread far enough to slip over the hooks. Slowly closed the hood and the washers dropped in my hand.

 

Brilliant!!!
I might have thrown the spring in vinegar though

 

Ha, yes, there are new springs actually on the car. Example only. Thanks!

 

I made this stool out of unused stuff laying around, works great to roll my 240 lb fat ass around, with back issues you just can't have enough places to sit and work.
I don't think I'd use it to stand on though, even with the locks on the wheels