GOOD Evening, I am making a patch for the inner fender wheelhouse. I managed to get the upper piece to fit relatively snug: So how do I tip the blue curved and back area? Should I shrink the upper price (Horizontal shown in green) a bit over first? and then it should come down after I tip the bottom area down? What affect on the metal will tipping the curved area have on the upper area in in green? Thank You!!
I’m guessing you want the blue tipped out? First you should roll the break point into the steel on the line. The outer blue will be easier to manipulate if the defined separation line is there. Then you can bend the blue, and stretch it at the same time. If you don’t have a stretcher you can do it by hammering the steel with a firm block behind it. Lots of small smacks in the blue zone, stretching in small spots, as each blow of the hammer against blue with solid steel under it. Obviously more hits at the outer edge cause you need more stretch there. If you have an anvil, great, otherwise the flat backside of a vise, or a flat dolly clamped in a vise. Slow and steady wins the race.
Thank you for the reply, please can you elaborate on how to roll the break point into the steel in the line? I do not have the luxury of a bead roller. Thanks again.
Make a wood buck. Get a piece of 2x4 and cut the curve into it, clamp the metal onto the wood at the line (and onto something very sturdy), using a plastic mallet slowly tap the metal down. You might want to make a angle template out of cardboard to see when you hit the right angle or just keep on removing the metal and checking it. for the inner panel it doesn't have to be an exact science. Or a piece of pipe, a 4x4...really anything straight and solid and just keep moving around the curve. You can shrink it around the curve or just pie cut it.
Draw the line on the panel, nice and crisp. Find a block of steel you can cut a V into, then clamp it into your vise. Hold the panel line directly over the V, and use a blunt/flat pick ended body hammer to tap the crease very lightly along the line. Sneak up on it. I find it easier to see that I’m hitting the line, rather than upside down like Oltimer says.
If i dont have a block of steel, could I use a piece of wood? 2) Also if hammered the tipped blue area in the V... would that not disrupt the upper shrunk compound area (green) which fits snug?
Id probably bang that center with a big shaping hammer over a bag Then it will tell ya where to shrink
Is it necessary to replace this much metal? How about a picture of the same area, without the patch panel covering it. From what I can see, you may have three distinct crowns (curves) from the wheel arch to the outer wheelhouse flange, across a steadily increasing circumference. Replacing this entire section, as large as that patch is, will require a whole lot of stretching. That is why you need to replace only exactly what needs to be replaced, and very little more. If you want do do this with simple hand tools, you will need a 4-1/2" grinder, with a flap disc, and that stump featured in the picture. And one of these: https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Contour-Duplicator-6-Inch/dp/B00004T7RA You push this down against the curves on the wheelhouse, so that the pins in the gauge are perpendicular to the mid-line of the curve that you are trying to duplicate. The other side of the gauge will present a curve that matches the curve of the panel. I will need to see a picture of the wheelhouse to get a better idea of where to hit. Use the grinder with the flap disc to make pockets in that stump that match those curves, and hammer the metal into those curves.
Easiest to find a new friend with a bead roller. Or buy a cheapo from Horrible Freight. It will get the job done and many more if you plan on doing more metal work.
So you are basically saying I wont be able to get both curves to fit snug if I dont use a bead roller. Thanks.
I dont think you understand, I got the green part to fit snug ( horizontally) but I need to know how to tip the blue edge down without stretching the already shrunk green piece. Thank you
Sure you can, but I don’t think the line will be crisp if you don’t insert it first. Maybe close is good enough for you. I’m just telling you how I would do it. I have a few years experience pounding on body panels and making missing parts.
See @alchemy's response. You cannot move metal in one place, without also moving it in another, without shrinking, stretching, or combinations of both. I am 40-years deep in panel forming. I would not underestimate what I understand.
You can use paper to practice It you have to cut the paper to spread it out, that’s an area that needs stretched It it folds over itself to make the shape, that’s an area that needs shrunk.
Anthony, alchemy, & gimpy; Thanks for the description(s). They are helpful in visualizing the process. Marcus...
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