Technical Small Block Chevy 350 Rebuild

Some had a thermostat bypass

And I’ve seen the heater plumbed like this

 

I’ve ran em with the heat plugged
If not using a PCV or booster, plug the intake hole to prevent a massive vacuum leak.

 

That hole is left behind from the dilling of an oil passage during the finishing process.|

There should be a plug in it.



There exists in this diagram some extra race stuff, which you can ignore.

 

Oil pressure location

 

Since I will not have a heater, I can just put plugs in those two ports?

PCV- do I have to have that? If I do, the PCV valve comes out of on of the valve covers and then runs to that hole?

 

I ran a 350 for a long time with the heater ports plugged.
You can loop them together.
A PCV isn’t needed to run, but I ran a 350 without one and it seemed to leak much less oil after a PCV was installed.
I prefer to have them. Just helps to have a cleaner running engine on the inside.
My PCV is plumbed to a rear intake port commonly used for a vacuum booster
I’ve seen em plumbed to a carb plate as well

 

Anyone know what this little rod is for? It came with the short water pump.

 

No idea. Solid or hollow? What diameter is it? By pass block?????

 

The one at the back of the intake, by the distributor is for vacuum. Typically used for power brake booster and it can also supply vacuum to an auto transmission. Plug it.

The one on the front of the intake is a port to your cooling system. Typically used for heater hose. You can either plug it or install your sensor for temperature gauge.

The two on your water pump are connected to your cooling system ... plug them.

 

Control panel

 

For just running the engine for a short time on a test stand you wouldn't need a complete working PCV system. But at the very least you should probably have a breather of some sort in the valve cover(s) and/or a vented oil fill cap.

 

How does the oil dipstick fit in? Is it just a pressure fit? Should it fit in all the way up to the bulge?

 

Is it OK to use 1/4” brass plugs for the block coolant drains on both sides? Can’t find black iron or galvanized here. Smallest is 3/8.

 

Yes, brass plugs will be better than black iron or galvanized.

 

A little more basic. I secure it to my engine building stand.

 

Yes,,,,you drive it in,,,,,,and it stops at the swedge bulge .

Tommy

 

A tool is made to install it, kinda looks like a crows foot wrench but round inside. It fits snuggly on the tube, and the business end on the bulge. Then tap into place.

 

I don't know exactly what your plan is for moving/setting up/running etc but I'd be inclined to install two petcocks so you can easily drain the coolant from the block. I am****uming you will be running straight water that gets drained after each display/running. After removing the upper and lower rad hoses, there will still be a good amount of liquid still in the block ... petcocks make draining easier.

Just an FYI ... opening one petcock will not drain the entire block, it will only drain one side of the block.

 

I do not have the valve covers on yet. Can I dump oil directly in the hole for the distributor to fill the oil pan? Then use the old distributor I modified to work as a primer in order to see the oil coming to the top of the heads and into the valve train which is why I do not have the valve covers on yet.

 

Yes

 

i think you can just go pull one from a pick n pull for $50-$100, if my memory recalls correctly.

***EDIT*** This comment was incredibly late. I had only read the first few pages when I decided to comment, like an idiot.

 

I was able to get a Holley Street Warrior 4160 600 cfm carb model 80457. Now to find the correct adapter plate. I need to go from the four hole quadrajet intake manifold to this carb Does the adapter plate need to be a four hole or one large square hole? I see they come with gaskets and hardware. 4 hole would make sense

 

Like this: description says Holley/edelbrock to Rochester 4g 4-jet carb adapter plate



Or like this? It says universal qudrajet car adapter, open center

 

I’d use the upper one only because, we’ll things just line up better. None of this bumping in corners if there’s such a thing in a round room.

 

I was just concerned because wouldn’t the squirters (I’m sure that’s not a technical term) have to squirt into the correct hole of the manifold?

 

Not really. Vacuum will send things where they need to go.

 

It will work, but you will leave several ponies out in the pasture rather than bringing them into the barn.

Better choices would be either:

(A) a Q-Jet on your intake

OR

(B) your Holley on a square-bore intake

In either case NO adapter.

Jon

 

After looking again at what you gave us to look at for adapters, that 4 hole does not look correct for a q-jet intake to square bore.

Take a peek at this Edelbrock 2696. There are other vendors for this unit, just showing this one for pics. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266191029467?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:1VH3a-53kR6Oke68k7wclWw87&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=266191029467&targetid=1644837435003&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031247&poi=&campaignid=20125739985&mkgroupid=149128855676&rlsatarget=pla-1644837435003&abcId=9312975&merchantid=138380450&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh_40optYpFG_cZ_CcERu20or&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7vWbucav_wIVZQ6tBh2ZZQOSEAQYBCABEgKxIPD_BwE

 

Hey Jon, why the HP loss?
Thanks