Projects 1931 Cobbled Roadster Build

if by chance you need to know that hose part number it is Centric 150.66324

 

For line I ran with copper Nickle 3/16. I have heard all of the talk of size and material. I went this route because it was easier to find the adaptors and couplers i needed and steel is a B to shape. If it fails, that will be another lesson I have learned in this process. I was tired of my old flaring tool so I bought an Eastwood pro one. Its amazing, however i was having issues with it at first. I was seeing a catch or crimp happen in every flare. After a few calls tech guys told me the Copper Nickle wont work on this tool. So messaged Matt from Iron Trap and he is the nicest person, he told me to try to give it a slight push in the coupler on the tool and this fixed this issue. After that small adjustment, this tool makes perfect flares over and over.

 

Had alot of dirt in my e brake line in the backing plate, but made short work of it with a metal pipe cleaner in my drill. At first i purchased the wrong cable for the e brake. The 1940 was too long, but I got the later one which was much shorter and it fits nice. When i get the body back on the car i will fully install this to the handle.

 

After some bleeding the whole system is holding and ill call it good for now.

 

That NiCop tubing is great stuff to work with, and I've never had issues with it. Easy to bend and good corrosion resistance. Looks like a very clean plumbing job you're doing here.

 

Can you please elaborate a little on what you mean when you say "give it a slight push in the coupler on the tool"? Thanks!

 

The tool has stages/operations you turn to use it, if i am remembering correctly its a 3 step process. You turn to the 0 first and this step stages the coupler and line in the correct spot if you are using steel line. Then you would normally move to step/operation 1 then 2, giving you the flare. But with the Copper Nickle i had to use a step from one of the other sizes that pushed the line in just a touch more which prevented the crimping. If you look at the photo below you will see the steps or OP.1/OP.2. For the slight push of the line i used the OP.1 for the 5/16 i think i was pushing in the line maybe 1/16th of an inch.

 

Thankyou, once i figured out how to use the tool i was so impressed with the tool and the line. so much easier than making hard curves in steel line.

 

I wonder if your rear wheel cylinders are backward. The big end goes forward as do the the longer shoes. My brake lines faced forward.

 

Thanks for the advice! I'll play around with it as you suggest.

 

hmm i just copied the Vern Tardel Book. Thanks ill look at that again though.

 

During Round Up this year I was on the look for a WWII old air tank to give a fuel tank swap a try. I found one for cheap enough and gave it a go. The tank is made of stainless, which i am still learning to use my TIG so don't roast me. hahah. I bought a basic vented stainless gas fill and bottom bung for the out. I used a couple of bolts I just cut the caps off. Its holding with no bubbles so far so good. It seems to be holding about 6.5 gallons, which is not alot of fuel but I'll take it.

 

As you can see its got a big dent but it holds water and air with no leaks.