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Hot Rods 29 RPU- "Street/Strip" B/SR Build - Marty Strode

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Marty Strode, Dec 19, 2019.

  1. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    The last couple of days went pretty well, with the upper and lower side panels in place, and held by Dzus buttons. Next will come the curved top section that will taper down a couple inches to the rear. This is tedious work, keeping the panels aligned without a solid frame to connect to. When it's all closed up, then I can extend the frame, and tie it all together. IMG_0200.JPG IMG_0201.JPG IMG_0204.JPG IMG_0206.JPG IMG_0208.JPG IMG_0209.JPG
     
    Dyno Dave, bchctybob, Tman and 23 others like this.
  2. Going to be awesome!
     
    Stogy likes this.
  3. WestCoastChris
    Joined: Mar 4, 2008
    Posts: 174

    WestCoastChris
    Member
    from Vista

    FB_IMG_1646847766126.jpg
    Looking Good, Marty! If I get back to Oregon I'll look you up for a closer look!
     
  4. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,758

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Marty, Your craftsmanship is exemplary and I learn a lot by watching how you do things, but I gotta ask,"Why do the body panels first, then build the chassis inside it, rather than building the frame first and using it as a skeletal framework to attach the body panels in alignment with the chassis C/L"?
     
    brEad, Stogy and 05snopro440 like this.
  5. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    That would be great Chris, and if I make down your way with the truck, I will let you know.
     
    bchctybob and Stogy like this.
  6. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I would normally do it with the steel in place, but wasn't sure of how much taper it would have, and found it to be safer to do it this way. And it will allow me to make the inner structure follow the the body line closer.
     
    bchctybob, dwollam, Stogy and 2 others like this.
  7. Stan Back
    Joined: Mar 9, 2007
    Posts: 2,519

    Stan Back
    Member
    from California

    Marty --

    Is the car gonna be push started?

    Stan
     
    Stogy likes this.
  8. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    It will be running, and pushed to 40 mph or so.
     
    bchctybob, dwollam and Stogy like this.
  9. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I cut out a wood baffle to hold the shape while forming the top piece, and the paper shows the taper. More progress tomorrow. IMG_0228.JPG IMG_0229.JPG
     
  10. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Got the top cover roughed in, and took a little time to get hi-speed internet installed today.. So it will be far easier to post photos, and videos. Good things to come ! IMG_0232.JPG IMG_0234.JPG IMG_0235.JPG IMG_0237.JPG IMG_0212.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2023
  11. SilverJimmy
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 596

    SilverJimmy
    Member

    Marty, did you get the Standard or High Performance StarLink? We are on DSL from the phone company and are always getting spotty performance, and are looking for a better alternative, will be interesting to get your take on StarLink!
     
  12. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Jimmy, I only used it a little last night, but the speed of DSL was around 3 download and under 1 upload, and look at it now. It comes ready and easy to install, plug and play. I had to fab a bracket to mount it to the barge rafter. I had a friend do the setup on the computer, turned it on, watched it oscillate and spin for a couple minutes, and presto ! Right now, I couldn't be happier. IMG_0238.JPG IMG_0239.JPG IMG_0240.JPG
     
  13. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Got the top section fit, locked down and the tail end trimmed off. Also got the belly plate fit in place and ready for Dzus buttons to replace the Clecos. A trick I learned from a friend, instead of using tape to layout a final trim line on a curved section, a round aluminum welding rod bends nicely, and keeps things straight. Also, when trimming with aviation snips, always cut most of the waste off first, then the final finish edge will be smooth, clean and undistorted. IMG_0244.JPG IMG_0246.JPG IMG_0247.JPG IMG_0249.JPG IMG_0250.JPG IMG_0252.JPG IMG_0255.JPG IMG_0257.JPG
     
  14. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Since my last post, I formed the upper piece that will hold the upper rear cover and chute surround. It will get buck riveted in place. The shape is pretty close. IMG_0258.JPG IMG_0259.JPG IMG_0260.JPG IMG_0261.JPG IMG_0264.JPG IMG_0266.JPG IMG_0267.JPG IMG_0268.JPG IMG_0269.JPG
     
  15. Weedburner 40
    Joined: Jan 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,049

    Weedburner 40
    Member

  16. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I got the rest of the Dzus angle brackets fabbed and riveted in today, and now it's time to remove all but the lower sheet metal. The attach point for the chute shroud line and push wheel need to be extended, and the canister for the chute will be remounted with a couple inches sticking out of the enclosure panel. IMG_0271.JPG IMG_0272.JPG IMG_0273.JPG IMG_0274.JPG IMG_0275.JPG IMG_0277.JPG
     
  17. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Now that the body panels are nearly finished, I had to move to the task of extending the shroud line hook up, push wheel, and chute canister. Tying on to the the existing structure, making it strong enough to push off, on a sometimes rough track, along with being extended 36", was one thing, and it all had to come apart. Not wanting, to use a buddy of mine's phrase "that looks agricultural", I went with a mix of 2" square and round tube, combined with some 3/16" cold rolled plate. IMG_0278.JPG IMG_0282.JPG IMG_0284.JPG IMG_0287.JPG IMG_0288.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2023
    Toms Dogs, Nominal, OFT and 18 others like this.
  18. tractorguy
    Joined: Jan 5, 2008
    Posts: 979

    tractorguy
    Member

    Hey.......what's wrong with a little "agricultural" now and then ?.........Great job Marty. Keep us updated.
     
  19. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I will Allan, take care !
     
  20. Larry Anderson
    Joined: Jul 15, 2013
    Posts: 306

    Larry Anderson
    Member

    Looks kinda professional sir…

     
  21. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,171

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    A question for you Marty: is all of this to move the center of pressure further behind the center of gravity? To help stabilize the car at speed? Just curious...
     
  22. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 14,036

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Geez you have skills Marty! Fun watching you work.
     
    alanp561 likes this.
  23. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Dave, the thinking is the added taper at the rear should help with drag, and the tail fin should aid in stability, placed further behind the rear axle. I don’t really know, just doing the work. Really hoping for good salt conditions to see what it will do.
     
  24. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Glad to have you watching Bill, see you around.
     
    Bandit Billy likes this.
  25. Stan Back
    Joined: Mar 9, 2007
    Posts: 2,519

    Stan Back
    Member
    from California

    I love your answer in Post #863.

    (No sense in waking the experts.)
     
    Jay McDonald likes this.
  26. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Frenchtown, did you notice, that I didn't build a frame, just extended the 3 items in the middle? Sometimes it works that way for me.
     
  27. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 5,124

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Marty, a little more practice and you might get to be really good at this kind of work ;)
     
  28. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    You might need to hop a plane and come help me finish this. My back slipped out today, and I can't do much. Hopefully, I can make the enclosure panels for the back sitting on my rolling chair.
     
    alanp561 and bchctybob like this.
  29. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 9,446

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Jim Lindsay, Chris Kopp, and I settled on a rough design on the tail fin today. And since Chris is the the master metal man, and agreed to make and install the fin, I am very happy. He took a couple pix to show the shape we came up with. He is also well connected in the racing world and is going to consult and expert on the subject, before making the part. Please excuse the mess, it is a little bit of a madhouse at present. Lindsay Lakester 2.jpg Lindsay Lakester 1.jpg
     
    OFT, bymanr, Dean Lowe and 13 others like this.
  30. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,758

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Yes, that looks like a nice solution that will be sturdy with that square tubing structure and a minimal use of material.

    Re: the fin
    I am wondering how Mr. Kopp will address anchoring the tail fin to the body such that the forces in an extreme yaw/ crosswind / crossed up situation will keep the fin securely anchored to the body. Looking forward to pics of that solution.

    I hope your back issues are resolved soon
     
    Dave G in Gansevoort likes this.

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