Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

I was in same boat as you. (Car?)
It wasn't much more to get a kit with the additional circuits I wouldn't need.
I sealed the ends, coiled the other wires, and hid them behind the upholstery panels in case myself or a future owner wanted to add PW, 3rd brake light, A/C, etc.
Easier than adding later

 

Hope to have your confidence when I turn 78, hope to have something that is in need of wires in 6 years. Bob

 

I'll be hitting 77 in 2 months and hope to start wiring my '36 in a few weeks. No big deal, bit it'll take a little longer than it would have 20, 30, or more years ago. Just keep at it a couple of hours a day, until it's done, then on to the next step.

Getting old doesn't have to mean stopping what you love to do, if you have your health.

 

Absodamnedlutely. Don't really know what it is suppose to feel like being 78 (this is my 1st time). Main difference, getting up and down, taking a bit longer.

 

For many of us journalists, authors and wordsmiths, there's an old saying: We like having written, not writing. I think it is that way for a lot of us who re-wire our vehicles. We want it done a certain way, will re-wire or re-route many times to get it the way we want it, but in the end are much happier having completed the job. Screw the journey; celebrate arriving at the destination.

 

One wire at a time!

 

Should be, the fan and pump won't draw much current and the AC would mainly be for the compressor clutch which doesn't use heave gage wire.
I used one on an old Ford F1 awhile back, great product, easy to read the writing on the wire, well manufactured over all, just like in the olden days. The one question I had for Rebel they answered within 24 hours, very good customer support.

 

Thanks, time to work on my stamp collection.

 

The Rebel kits are so nice and you can customize it as needed. The hardest/most time consuming part to me is making it look good (hiding it).

 

The 37 Ford Pickup on my profile pic has a Rebel harness in it. I've recently purchased a 1936 Ford 3 window coupe that I'm in the process of rewiring. I've got a 21 circuit Rebel harness that I'm using. The car's got a storage area fab'd nicely behind the seats. The battery is mounted behind the passenger seat and I'm wanting to put the circuit panel and relays behind the drivers seat. this is gonna require 6' or so of splicing on the wiring going to the dash, steering column, engine and front of the vehicle. Is this going to cause any issues?
By the way this thread is great!! Lots of good info!

 

A quick call to Rebel Tech Support would be my suggestion.

 

@REBEL43 , see post by @clips221 above. Thanks.

 

I just received the third wiring harness to install in the latest car and I'd like to make the hazard lights operational on this car. Do you add a 12 volt feed that is switched to the brown (IIRC) wire in the turn signal switch harness to operate the hazard lights?
A friend and his son are coming up to look at the wiring harness for his 49 Chevy gasser, they were going to order from another vendor but I convinced them to at least see what the competition had

 

Rebel wiring made me a very nice 21 underseat harness for my 36 Coupe. I've got the wiring laid out to where it goes. Dash is wired and reinstalled. The car has power windows and power door poppers already installed. I've purchase an aftermarket power window wiring harness. the passenger door passenger window switch has 5 wires in it. Blue and Green go to the motor, brown and brown/black ground, red is 12V. I'm installing 5 pin relays in the drivers side door. I can't seem to figure out how to connect the passenger side door passenger side switch wiring into the relays for the PS door. I've ran 2 wires from the PS motor to pins 30. I've attached a wiring diagram I'm using but I'm overlooking something. any help is appreciated.

 

I you are using the 1980's truck wiring, then you will need to get the 1980's style door buttons. Note, the PS button only has two wires, hence the need for an 'up' relay and a 'down' relay.

If you use a five wire button on each door, driver will have to reach to operate PS window, but no relays are needed.

 

Not completely sure what you're asking here but if you want to use a 5 wire switch with the diagram shown just don't attach any ground wires to the switch.
I agree with pprather though, 5 wire switches in both doors would eliminate the need for relays.

 

The large diagram is basically correct except it fails to show one wire. The five-wire switch will work, just don't connect anything to the 'ground' terminals and you'll have to run same the 12V power feeding the master switch to the passenger switch which the big diagram doesn't show. Connect those three wires at the passenger switch as shown on the switch picture. If the switch operates backwards from the 'master', just switch the green and blue wires.

 

I remember this thread from years ago, but just now ran into it again. I share Crazy Steve's idea about larger gauge wires. I think the fuse panel feed wire should be a minimum of 10-gauge wire, and maybe even 8-gauge. Not to mention the common 16-gauge wires that should be 14-gauge.

I did a universal AAW kit a few years ago and modified it to use 8-gauge to a distribution block on the inside of the firewall. From there I ran 10-gauge to the fuse panel BAT bus and 10-gauge to the ignition switch BAT terminal. Worked great and had less than 0.2 voltage drop at the loads.

That's the 8-gauge feed wire at 12 o'clock on the distribution block.

 

^^^^^^ What is the qizmo with a red base with a two screw mount that looks like a dimmer switch in middle of all the wire?

 

@The37Kid ,
That is: 8-gauge wire to a distribution block on the inside of the firewall. From there I ran 10-gauge wire to the fuse panel BAT bus and 10-gauge wire to the ignition switch BAT terminal.

The black plastic cap is an insulator as the distribution block terminal is 'hot'.

 

Nice job on that, I like it.

 

@REBEL43 Thank you for everything so far! I've purchased a Rebel kit for my Dodge, and have finally found the time to begin rewiring grandpa's old truck, and giving the vehicle its first ever fuse panel.

I'm far from a mechanic or electrician, and I have no pride. What I do have are a few questions. The first section I'm attempting is the front/engine. My turn lights and headlights, and everything really, have a positive and negative running back to the dashboard/controls. With the new kit, there's only a lead. Is this because with the fuse panel, being grounded to the frame is enough?

Another question. With all new wiring, I really want to make it look nice under the hood, and wherever else it might be seen. Are there accessories, or ideas you'd point someone to in the way of keeping everything tidy?

Cheers.

 

@1961Sweptline ,
Unfortunately, @REBEL43 has been busy, he has not been here for several months.
I'll try your questions.
Every end point, light socket or accessory, needs a 'hot' wire and a ground. The grounds all have to end up connecting to the battery's grounded terminal. You can use metal to metal contact, but a much more reliable approach is to get all the grounds to terminal strips that then have a heavy wire connection to the battery. Something like this, or several of these in different areas of your rod:
https://www.ronfrancis.com/product/233
For tidy wiring ideas, I suggest you do a search on the HAMB. There are lots of threads with ideas.
I hope this helps.

 

Thank you Phil.

 

@1961Sweptline , this discussion had some how to bundle wires as well as how NOT to bundle wires:

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hog-rings-on-your-wiring.1295502

 

I’ve started wiring my 51 ford. Im using the rebel wire 9+3 kit. My car has a 302 sbf and I’m running the duraspark ignition system. Im also using the painless wiring duraspark ii ignition harness p/n 30812. I’m trying to figure out what I need to do to make the 2 harnesses work together. Has anyone else done this? If so any information would be greatly appreciated.

so far I have figured the painless wire 919 is the neutral safety switch and wire 920 is the coil ignition hot wire.

I don’t know what to do with the pink coil wire and the tach wire on the rebel kit a to make it work with the painless harness.

 

@Kage ,
Usually pink wire is from ignition switch ON terminal to coil positive.

Here is a recent discussion of Duraspark. There is a couple wiring diagrams near the end. Maybe that will help you:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/ford-duraspark-ignition-wiring.1296145/

 

I recently wired my alternator to NHRA rules and ran my red power wire back to the battery side of my 2 post battery cutoff switch.
With switch off it drained my battery, I assume the battery fed back to the late style GM alternator and out the white exciter wire to wherever I hooked that up to.
When configuring the 3 wire alternator to act like a one wire, is the exciter wire still needed ?