Technical Model T Frame + Model A Parts?

So I'm planning on building a speedster of sorts..

• Model T Frame
• Model T F/R Springs
• Model A Axles
• '36 Wide Five brakes converted to juice
• Model B engine
• Model A trans

After thinking about this project, a few questions arose.

What front spring perches can I run?
If I plan on running split wishbones, is there a correct way to make mounts on the frame?
Is a mildly stock banger okay to run with the frame unboxed?

Attached are a few photos of what I'm getting this weekend.

 

Model T frames are awful wimpy. The later ones, 26-27 are slightly thicker, but still wimpy. I would look for an A frame myself.

 

I'll be getting two 26-27 frames. Having built many A frames, I'm building a single seater on a T frame.

 

Single seater sounds fun, I've always wanted one too !

 

Somewhere on here there was a thread that showed a neat way to get the front suspension lowered when using a T frame. Flip the front crossmember upside down so that the arch is up and the channel is open to the top. Then the front spring was mounted just behind the axle off of the wishbone and the axle was moved forward and up relative to the frame. Lowered the particular car what appeared to be a good 5 to 6 inches without a dropped axle. Maybe someone else will remember it an can find it again...

 

I don't think it'd be that hard to make a T frame competitive with an A for strength. I don't think you need to box it for a*****y banger but I would add a center crossmember. Keep in mind that the T and A both get a lot of structural rigidity from the torque tube setup. Splitting bones channels a lot of road stresses into the frame rails that would normally be soaked up by the drivetrain.

 

Is that possible with just the earlier frames, or the 26-27 ones too?

 

I’d like to just keep the front wishbones split. I have seen guys “box” the T frames by having timber between the rails secured with plates and bolts. I definitely plan on having a center crossmember for sure!

 

Will be following with great interest. I'm collecting parts for a very similar jigger

 

There is nothing wrong with a t frame. Both of these are on T chassis’s

 

The T frame is made from chrome vanadium steel. Henry liked using quality materials. Adding wooden infill to the rails won't in itself add much to the beaming strength of the rails. What it does do, is stabilize the rails, ****uming that you get a fug snit inside the rails. And it helps keep the rails from collapsing should you overload the rails. Probably didn't explain too clearly, think flitch plate in house construction. A flat steel plate on edge stabilized with 2 wooden planks on either side of the plate.

 

What is the application? 150 HP and balls out sideways around a dirt oval? Or straight line fun? Not everything needs to be inflexible as an SF liberal.

Build a truss rod from the front to rear. BOLT the floor boards to frame ala Voisin (use it as a stressed member)

Bringing the split wish bone frame mount back farther (bring mine to the aft engine mount) will help with unpleasant range of motion at the front axle (longer arms will give a more shallow arc over the same distance traveled).

Remove the second to largest leaf spring in the front and rear will help remove some of the load transfer from the spring to the frame. Wrap the leaves in double sided plumbers tape and get working shocks. Remember...you weigh (xxx lbs) and the car has no body and isn't carrying 700 pounds of people.

Have fun!

 

Welp… got everything sort of mocked up for the rear. I threw some 18” wheels on just to get it rolling. I need to mount some tires for my wide five wheels.

It’s still a little high in the rear, but it’ll level out once I put some weight on it.

my question is, will it look goofy with a 4” drop axle and some leaves pulled from the front T spring?

 

Got a bunch of the T sub frames and rails if you need some.

 

If you like it, who cares? So far so good!