What a wonderful build thread! You have shown what perseverance, hard work and sticking to the task on hand can result in. No, not an award winning trailer queen but a piece of art that will bring many years of pleasure and a true sense of fulfilment for a job well done. Well done sir!
Thanks alot! If it weren’t for this Forum! Hardly anyone would even know! Thanks for the encouragement, Tips, and a common bond! Next goal get the lights installed hooked up, door latches fixed, gauges bolted down And…. Get to Auburn cruise night July 14th!
Man, car is turning out great! I really like your attitude of getting it on the road and not worrying about it being perfect. They don’t stay perfect anyway if we drive them...which is what they are for.
So I read a while ago on some article about saving these old latches when the rivets loosen up, you can weld them so that’s what I did and it seems to work great now at least in the vice!!
Multi-tasking… In between equipment maintenance. Shhhh. Put the driver door latch on last night with a new handle, painted and lubed and reworked the latch welded the old rivets to the door latch/striker. It worked good, it just seems like those Springs naturally are really stiff, which I guess is good to keep it from opening but I’m going to put on a safety latch anyway. so if anybody needs to fix the slop from the striker to the mechanism, it seems to work out well. If that makes sense? I also welded it on the edge too for back up.
Hey, question for you, Sparky types out there?? My new tail lamps only came with two wires one for the high filament and one for the low filament (just need to figure out which one is which, before I hook it up) also came with a 12 V bulb and a 6 V bulb. Obviously I’m running the 12v So if I want a “really good” ground, is this a good idea? I just grounded it straight to the bucket, run it through the loom and then ground straight to the frame. My engine is grounded to the frame. My body is grounded to the frame, and the Dash is grounded to the body so it should give me a really good ground I would imagine? I’m just making sure that I’m understanding all this lighting wiring. Thanks.
I normally solder the wire to the tube that the bulb fits into,with the new housing the solder should be easy to stick.It is the tube the pigtail fits into that you want a real good ground on.The car looks really good,wish i could get mine to that state. harvey
Thanks! I tried it on the battery and it works! Also, I learned something about the low element versus high element I thought that the articles I read literally meant the high filament was the high beams/turn/brake lights, and the little one was the tail light park lamp But when I tested it that shorter one was actually the brighter one and then I realized that is the one with the bigger spring/element that’s the brighter one! That’s how you learn right?? Hard to see in the picture, but the taller one is the less bright one! Me thinks I gots it!!!
Well… I think They are ready to go! I Like my new Chopped Powder coated Stalks way better than the original Long Chrome ones!
Got some stuff done! Doors shut like butter! Mirrors on, park lamps, tail lamps. Just need to connect all lights up.
Got the rear lights temporarily hooked up! So I know they work. got the Doll Plate on, and these cool “lightning Bug”LED fasteners! They make it super easy to have license plate lights. I think later I might drill out the skull eyes and put red LEDs. I think that would be kind of cool!
Thanks For the Kudos! Appreciate it! So… I’m trying to keep this thing at least 90%, 95% traditional but with all these LED bulbs nowadays and incandescent bulb being crappy!! I broke down and bought some LED Shortys for these front lights! Of course they were so bright one was yellow instead of orange or Amber! So what I did is, I took some red spray paint, mixed a little lacquer thinner in it and painted the white LED Cap translucent red! Can you tell which one is incandescent, and which one is LED? They Both Oran-ge! Now!
Leds are cute down there,but seems hard to see from a number of angles? Still far better then none. So good safety. The only thing in photo that dose look very off,is front rims are very far out side of were they should be= big scrub.* But someone may of talked about that already? I didn't look at all 41 pages.
The Wheels and drums are supposed to look like that. Its a late 60’s theme Munster-Barris era. They are only 4 1/2 inches wide I didn’t want the Cowl lamps on there. Looked to Resto-Roddish for me. But I wanted some turn signals up front so people coming towards me could see Which way I was turning. That is a REAL expensive Original Grille. Want to Make Sure There is no excuse for pulling out in front of me!
Ohhh… she is pissed at me!!! She caught me working on it. When I was trying to “incorporate” it with my yardwork. You don’t want to see a Latina woman get mad!!! So I was extra good the rest of the evening!
Made it to Work! No issues! Supposed to be in the 90’s today We will see how the old flatty is on the way home!
Well made it home! No real issues. -Gas cap leaks around corners -little grind between 2-3rd Probably need to adjust the clutch a bit -Ran 150 in the morning 180 in afternoon at 90 outside -And 190 on the freeway at 60mph For 8 miles Flat Road Not sure about 100 + weather yet
The Jalopy Journal
