Projects NOT THE TYPICAL '30 ROADSTER BUILD

vtwhead has made a very good recommendation. Use the double spring he listed. For over 60 years I've always used a double spring on carburetor linkage. Safety is no accident. Great looking build!

 

Good advice, thank you. Spring kit from Napa came with several double springs and will be using one of those.

 

Thank you. Agree.
I was afraid of the pedal becoming to stiff but I like safety aspects of it.

 

Taking a couple of steps back to continue moving forward...
Early on, I had leaned back the windshield posts, some, but the more I looked at those pictures the more I felt they needed to go back some more.
I found another set of br*** lower stanchions, in case of failing I didn't want to damage the ones I already have painted to be ruined, and removed even more material to get them to lean back even more.
Glad to know material was thick enough and I didn't go through the base.



Cardboard template.
You can see the outline far left is the stock position, the one in the middle is where it was sitting after my 1st attempt and now the new position.



I think it looks much better. Tried finding a happy spot so the bottom corners of the windshield don't stick out.
I am sure other adjustments will be needed, the top of the of upper stanchions might need to be pie cut to make them straight and the top frame my need to be tweaked also but worth it.

Now I need to prep them and get these painted.

 

Man, what a build, and what a thread! Getting towards the home stretch now. Have read the whole thread over the last few days, great work and thanks for sharing.

 

Great! Glad you liked it. Thank you for the positive words.

 

Got the 2nd set of lower stanchions painted and clear coated. Moving forward again...

 

Revisited this over last few days. Super cool, lots of similarities to my plans for my 30 build and some differences. Very helpful!

 

Glad you like it. Stay tuned, more exciting things to come!

 

My back continues to be an issue not letting me to get as much work done as I would like to. It is what it is....
Crossing the smaller things off the list...

Finished installing cutting and buffing the lower stanchions




Returned, folded and sewn the piping so it could have nice exposed end.



Finished securing the back rest to the back filler. She is solid and all bolts will be accessible from the front since there is no access from the trunk area



Added nutserts to the filler piece and it now bolts from the top. It sill can be adjusted.
The bottom of the back rest will secure using the original angled inserts.


Getting closer to upholstery!



She sure has come a long way!

 

Wow, this thread and car are amazing. It's taken me a long time to read through it all, but what an enjoyable read its been! I love everything your doing, especially all the work most people (myself included) would first think to outsource, like the paint/body work and upholstery. I like how you've decided to tackle these jobs yourself, and so far everything has turned out top notch!
This thread is inspiring to people like myself who can turn a wrench, but are totally out of their element when tackling such a big job like building an entire car yourself. Awesome work, cant wait to see where it ends up. Then I'll re-read it all again!

 

Nice job so far on project. Was wondering what length fuel pump push rod you used with that intake. Believe it takes the longer one? Don

 

Thank you for the kind and inspiring words. It really means a lot to me to hear when someone is enjoying the build.
It has been an amazing journey and experience.

 

I am using an stock 59ab one.
When I was having fuel issues, I was thinking it was a fuel delivery issue with the pump so I tried a shorter one and then I bought an aluminum Offenhauser one from Speedway, which was a bit longer than the stock one.
I settled with the stock height one as it game the best result.

 

My next project requires 4" webbing....
I didn't realized how difficult was to find 4" webbing. I was only able to find one place that had it in-stock.
The brown one feels too dark...the blue one is nice and it fits the body color...I am going with the tan one. It matches the interior, the top, and it makes a nice contrasts with the leather.
...Ordering 5 years after the holiday....

 

Weather is nice and toasty today, here in the SFV, 100+ degrees.

Made a simple quick jig to keep the upper stanchions while pie cutting.


The pie cut made a big difference. Now need to get some TIG welding rod for stainless steel and give it a shot at welding these.



The cardboard template tells the story...

 

Got the upper stanchions welded and polished...They are done!



I couldn't stop there, so polished the steering wheel's hub too.



That was then and this is now...



It matches better with the horn base/****on and steering column.



Working on making a template for the windshield. Every quote I am getting for the gl*** comes up to $500 installed, for laminated gl***...seems pricey, am I wrong?
Any one with recent price experience? Any recommendations in the SFV/LA area?

 

Wow, gl*** pricing is nuts. I got my 31 gl*** cut from my template for around 85 bucks. I installed it myself with setting tape. @SDS in NH just got a price on his at around $325.

 

Glad to hear I am not the only one seeing those prices.
Install alone is running between $100-$150 and gl*** is $300-$350

Thinking of finding a discarded mirror and start practicing on how to cut my own gl***.

 

Wow, there is a local shop here in Bako and it’s always been $100 to $150 installed. Last one was $200 only because it was a ‘39 so two pieces. Although that was pre covid, next couple weeks I’ll be taking a W/S frame for my current coupe. Now you have me worried if their prices have gone crazy too.

 

I just got a quote for the rear window gl***; I am using a '40 ford convertible rear window...$150 just the gl***.
$150 for 20"x 6" piece of clear gl***...Prices are high...

 

Really nice job on the windshield stanchions and steering wheel!

 

Thank you. Honestly, they came out much better than I was expecting.

 

Just a sneak preview of what I am working on now.
Had these sitting on the shelf and well as matter add them to this project.

They been dyed 1 or 2 times, that I can tell....putting that sewing machine to work.

 

Anyone search the “recycle yard” for gl***? Late model vans or wagons can have one flat gl***. Experiment cutting up a small piece & burning out plastic middle that makes safety gl***. Got to save the lettering that identifies safety gl*** for state inspectors.

 

That's a good idea. I will give it a shot.

 

Taking the seat belt apart took some time, especially, because I didn't want to damage them and make sure I had the right size patterns for the new ones.
Definitely the best part was my dad jumping on the sewing machine and getting them put together for me...Made my day! We had a blast.
We were careful enough to set the machine to get the same s***ch count and copied the same s***ch pattern.



I wasn't planning on running seat belts but kind of glad I am now. I kept all the hardware and leather pad "as is" to keep some of that nostalgia to them.

Finding 3" webbing wasn't the easiest. After a lot of searching I found Wag-Aero, they have it in-stock and super friendly customer service. They sent me samples, as I was debating on color, and samples large enough to run a test in my sewing machine to make sure it could be done. At one point the machine needs to run through 3 layers of webbing and I was not sure if it could handle it.

https://www.wagaero.com/seat-belt-webbing-tan-3.html

 

Wag-Aero are good people to deal with!

 

I've been working on improving the template for the windshield...
I am using a chopped Mr. Roadster windshield from Speedway. The windshield frame itself is not the best. The corners don't match as they should, the fit is poor, but for now it will do.
I will -long term- get an original frame, chop it and re-chrome it....

I finally found a place where I am going to get my gl*** from, hence, the need for a good template since they don't do installations and don't have a template that I can use for reference either.

I offered to send them my frame but that was not an option as they don't do installations. Asked for a copy of the template they use and they told me they don't use physical templates. Asked them if they will be willing to sell and cut me a sacrificial deluxe windshield but that was a no go.
A template is my only option. Later on, I realized a template is the best route with this Mr. Roadster windshield.

I am getting the front and rear gl*** from Sanders Reproduction Gl***. Their price is the best that I've been able to find, thus far.

The rear gl*** is a stock 1940 Ford convertible window, so that was no problem.

As for the windshield, in search for the best template I could make, I drew the template using the dimensions in the Ford Bulletin Services book.
I figured, if I could get a deluxe windshield and reduce the height by 2" then it could work. After all that is what I have. Strangely enough, the Ford template and my frame are way off.
I then search online for yet a second template for the deluxe roadster, even thought mine is 2" chopped I figure it would be a good start/reference point....not even closed.
I don't think Mr. Roadster's frame follows the original. It looks like it but not it.

I went back to cardboard and tracing the inside of the frame and reducing a little more that 1/16" all around. I am planning on using 1/16" setting tape.
The top bar has a slight bow, the channel is not the same depth everywhere...and the top corners...those corners.

Retraced the cardboard template on to the 1/4" plywood, made some adjustments, and the fit was much better. Starting to feel more confident.
I used 1/16" thick pieces of tape in the corners to ensure it had the needed room, some final sanding, and it fits like a glove.

Tomorrow, I am putting the template in the mail and we shall see what we get back...fingers crossed.

 

I just installed a Speedway windshield on my roadster and was not real happy with the way the mitered corners were finished. Looks like the interior inserts that hold the corners together are just laser cut and kinda crude. We found that the corner fit could be improved a lot by twisting and tweaking those inserts until the frame edges lined up correctly. It took some time, trial and error, but the result was worth it.