Technical Cooling fan makes contact with radiator

Gentlemen, I am new to the Model A crowd and loving every minute of it!! I say this in advance to explain my lack of knowledge when it comes to my new to me car. I read a great deal of the posts on The Hamb and learning a great deal! I looked at my cooling fan to see If there were any cracks in it and found it is making contact. The radiator is not leaking but ever so lightly it is making contact and bending the fins. I do not see or feel any play in the water pump. My apologies for the dark pics - They were taken last night. What should I look for to remedy the situation? I thank you in advance for your input!

 

Back of the rad looks too far back.

Also does it have the stock motor mounts.

 

Cut a 1/4” off the shaft and use thin nylock nut.

 

Does your hood all line up good, so thats where the radiator has to be?

 

Yeah, that looks like it's not a Ford radiator. Might be Walker. Probably thicker than original.

 

The hood lines up well - no unusual or uneven gaps.

 

It is a Walker radiator.

 

I was told it has Float a motor engine mounts. Regrettably, I do not know what that means.

 

There may be your problem, or at least a contributing factor. The model A should be near solid mount and fixed in position the float system alows movement. You may be able to gain some clearance by slackening the mount bolts and try to shuffle the motor back slightly but i am not a fan of the rubber mount conversions, a lot of the cars features rely on the motor being solid mounted, unlike the later model B

 

Float a Motor mounts are the side mounts at the bellhousing. They have a more cushiony biscuit than the tighter Ford version. Might allow the engine to wiggle forward like Gizmo says.

 

I appreciate the input! I will inspect and report back.

 

Do you run hood sides? If so how do they fit? Even gaps, or tight on the bottom?

 

It would be very slightly if it still has the torque tube etc.
I know he doesn't need much.

 

The rear radius rods are located on the torque tube if its stock, the whole driveline would move back.

 

Is it possible that it's been rebuilt and they didn't press the impeller all the way onto the shaft? I have seen some different ways of taking excess end play out of the pump, too. The shaft uses a "bump", if you will, which serves as a thrust surface to limit shaft end play. I've seen these welded or brazed up to take up for the normal wear on the "bump" behind the shaft end, pushing it too far forward. Check these things: Shaft not properly installed, any alterations to the thrust surface, which normally has a hole worn in it from the shaft end rubbing on it. Something looks funny about the pulley on your pump, also.

 

Aftermarket front engine mounts typically raise the front of the engine. That might account for the problem'
My '31 Roadster Pickup has float-a-motor mounts and isn't close to the radiator. If tighten too much the transfer vibration. I run them almost loose enough to be able to turn the bolt. ALMOST. We use it hard, as this pic will show.

Dave

 

Spring?

 

Good point, but if the motor is sat too far forward it must be twisting the spring somehow. What looks strange is that the top hose has a dog leg in it. It should be straight indicating the motor is too far forward, or the rad too far back. It will be interesting to see how this plays out.

 

Thank you Gentlemen! Look like i have a few things to inspect over the weekend. I will report back next week!

 

Measure the wheelbase!
And check the rear wheel fit in the rear fenders