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Technical Crab distributor squealing

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jim Harrison, Jul 1, 2023.

  1. Jim Harrison
    Joined: Jul 1, 2023
    Posts: 3

    Jim Harrison

    Hi guys:

    My 59AB hot rod ‘36 Ford has a periodically “squealing” distributor. Starts squealing (loudly) randomly, goes away when you blip the throttle, comes back soon.

    I recalled that one time long ago, I was adjusting the vacuum brake, screwed it in too far and it started squealing, so I backed it off a bit and squealing stopped. I figured I would try that fix again.

    So I backed off the vacuum brake adjuster a full turn and it constantly squealed. Damn. So I tightened it down a couple turns and it seemed better. I tightened a bit more and it started squealing again.

    And of course, now that I have been tinkering with that vacuum adjuster, it squeals all the time!

    Ugh. Any thoughts? Should I pull out the vacuum brake, clean piston, replace leather*****on, or what??

    Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I’m not very experienced with these cars, but I try hard.
     
  2. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,598

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Nothing better than a screaming crab.



    time to disassemble your crab.
    From our own Mart.

     
    Torana68 likes this.
  3. inthweedz
    Joined: Mar 29, 2011
    Posts: 629

    inthweedz
    Member

    Maybe try lubricating the shaft bushes???
     
  4. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 4,315

    rusty valley
    Member

    you sure it isn't the generator bearing?
     
  5. Glenn Thoreson
    Joined: Aug 13, 2010
    Posts: 1,017

    Glenn Thoreson
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    This doesn't sound posible but if the leather pad on the end of the vacuum brake is worn completely out, the piston could be riding metal on metal. The oil from the front cam bearing should be plenty to lube the rear bushing on the distributor. There are two small oil passages that feed a small amount of oil to the water pump bearings. A flat spot on the pressure relief lets oil go through to these passages. It's been too long since I've had one of these apart to remember if any goes to the distributor. In any event, these distributors are super easy to remove for inspection. You can't put it back the wrong way. The slot between it and the end of the cam is offset. Will only go on one way. A dry, loose bushing will squeal and squawk like crazy. Bushings are not hard to replace. That's where I would start.
     
    BJR likes this.
  6. Jim Harrison
    Joined: Jul 1, 2023
    Posts: 3

    Jim Harrison

    Is there a lube port for that?
     
  7. Jim Harrison
    Joined: Jul 1, 2023
    Posts: 3

    Jim Harrison

    Yep. I have a stethoscope thingy, and it is definitely the crab.
     
  8. brando1956
    Joined: Jun 25, 2017
    Posts: 258

    brando1956
    Member

    I had the distributor on my OT Jeep 4.0 seize and break the shaft. Luckily no damage was done to the cam. When I pulled the distributor, I found that the oil hole on the housing was clogged by piece of debris. The shaft dried out and seized up. You may want to pull yours and check for a similar problem. I wouldn't wait. I was lucky, as this was a brand-new factory reman long block. Could have been carnage with broken cam or worse. Lesson learned; clean out distributor oil passages if it's out. Couldn't tell where blockage came from, may have been something in the long block or buildup over time I missed on install.
     
  9. inthweedz
    Joined: Mar 29, 2011
    Posts: 629

    inthweedz
    Member

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