Just finished up with the Toyota box swap on the 54 dodge panel, and lowering. We did a reverse eye and removed 1 leaf. Still need to go for an alignment. I’d like the wheel to return faster, and I’ve heard that’s a caster thing. Is it ok to run shims on a solid front axle to get more caster?
Well, I guess I am well experienced on this make and model... When they run the alignment it should be 6-7 degrees, that's what dodge had built into them from the factory. It works perfect honestly for all driving. A possible reason its slow to return is possibly the toe is off. Mine has zero shims and will snap back super fast but I'm running a stock raised box. Also my rear is only 3/4" taller than the front, that maintains the stock rake pretty well the rake affects caster angles. Sitting where I am now I left the shims in from prior work after I dropped the rear.. Was too much honestly... So ride heights and angles make all the things work and play correctly. Now when I was skyjacker rear with axle on top of leaf's, the shims were a must, then I dropped the rear and removed the front shims. Now I will say that if your rear is still up in the air and the front is down you have removed caster and that could be a cause of some of your slow rate to return to center. Caster is measured from the ground and when the front goes down and rear stays up you lower your caster value. Caster shims will work fine, just have to be cut down due to the 1.75" wide springs. I think I am one of the lowest still running leaf's with drop axle and manual steering.... Let me know how it all works out. The alignment will tell you everything you need to know honestly and get your toe out of the way to make sure its got the right amount of toe in.
great info! Thank you. I forgot about the rear, I’ll have the take a look. I think the PO swapped in a New Yorker diff, and can’t remember how it’s mounted. I actually do have a slight rake forward now, so I guess I have removed some of the caster angle?
The addition of the power steering could also slow down the return to center, especially if the PS pump is turning slower then it was designed to turn.
the power steering almost seems too light not to be able to overcome itself. It does, just not as quickly as I’d like. I actually wish it had more feel, but with the combination of caster and more toe in, I’m hoping I get more feel back. anyone else running a Toyota box and have issues of “feel”?
I had heard that you can regulate pressure in systems to help the feel. May be a rabbit hole to look into. A regulating/restricting orifice in the pressure line may increase effort and increase feel. Good looking Panel for sure. After looking at your photo I think your issues may lie with the Mechanical nature of the steering box and pressures. The Chassis angles look good and should be close to stock so the caster should be about spot on also. I normally wouldn't suggest adding caster in, but I think 2 degree shims to put you 8-9 deg may benefit vs going down the rabbit holes of pressure regulating etc. You evidently have enough power in the steering box where things feel light, and adding caster will add some effort and more steer ahead tendency. I would say give it a try and let us know your findings. Its easy to swap back if there is no change.
I have a 56 1/2t and the toyota box also. Was starting the layout, box and GM column clamped in place, u-joints purchased etc then got stalled by life. Will be restarting soon and could use some mount and pitman arm pics/advice from a veteran. At last look of a mockup it appears using the Toy arm with a different ball may be the best option. But I was concerned a bit as it is shorter than the Dodge. What's your take now that yours is driving?
I did the Toyota box on my '55 F100, as the box was gifted to me and my F100 box was worn. (worm gear and roller were chipped on the wearing surfaces...F100 steering parts were $$$, so in went the Toyo 4wd box, with my own bracket.) I used a '69 Chev pump, (SBC underhood) so my ratio was s-l-o-w, but smooth. Accessory pitman arm short, BUT! Lock-to-lock turns sharper than F100 box did, (and I have front axle moved forward 1.5"!) Was in front end repair/alignment biz for 5 of my 60 years in the trade, so CASTER was a must! (7* positive) I set toe to 1/8" toe in, and camber is standard axle setting, .5* positive. My wheels are 1.5" positive offset, so tread is wider. (Scrub radius is 'tolerable', as wheels are rare Romeo Palamedes castings for '53-'56 F100s, pic in avatar) Nice to drive, and I can do a power sideways and come out smooth as a sprinter. (slightly slow motion sprinter)
I've played with the "adjustable" and custom set power steering pumps and valves to change gear feel and hated them. It's a bandaid for either mis-matched parts or poorly designed set up. Had a customer that just had to have that stuff, tried talking him out of it but he read on the internet how great this stuff was he had to have it anyway. After fighting adjustable crap that seemed it wouldn't hold a constant feel to it and 2 custom pumps that would slowly leak or whine or just wasn't constant I told him we were done. Explained that we didn't want to get into this from the beginning and we had told him before hand of the problems we had ran into previously that we were done messing with the adjustable and custom pressure stuff, he understood. Don't think he ever got it to drive and stay constant in its feel. We even tried different sized pulleys on the custom pumps but didn't help... ..
lostone, do you know of a resource for various OE system pressures and volumes so that someone could select a steering device and a pump that are compatible but not necessarily matched application? The street rod SBC pump with a MII rack always required band aid tuning, IIRC, due to mismatched specs.
Lots of good info. I’ve taken the box out and have it at a local steering box shop. They’re going to make sure the mechanical and hydraulic side is all good. They also mentioned the importance of Centering the gear because of a bigger tooth on the Center. I have a digital protractor so I will check the caster angle in relation to the ground to get a rough idea. I can’t find any info on what the Toyota box inlet pressure should be but the Saginaw might be putting out too much. I don’t want to go through the rabbit holes as above.
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