Hello, I'm doing touch-up, repairs on a 23 year old paint job using the paint that was used back then. The label is just Deltron and this is just a basecoat, but the color starts out DAR (3838 86 Light Ivory Cream) I don't have a tech sheet but I believe it is over reduced with DRR reducer, possibly 1 1/2- 2 times the color ? That part of the can is not real legible. Tried the net to find a tech sheet but no luck. Anyone familiar with or have a tech sheet for this ? Of course the other color on the car, which I'm not using is completely legible and I have a tech sheet for the DBU, never fails, thanks !
I thought DAR was Delstar acrylic enamel? It's possible the paint store didn't have the right label to put on the can and grabbed a Deltron label but wrote what was in the can on the label.
I thinned some with DRR reducer and did a spray out. Seems to be okay that way. Yes. the DELTRON label with the DAR paint code had me puzzled.
I know it probably shouldn't work and I'm no chemist, but it reduced, flowed and dried beautifully. As far as I know the reducers job is to make things flow and evaporate. I don't know how it worked, but it did. The area I'm doing is fairly small, so I'll see how things go. This was used as a base in 2000 and cleared over. Not sure were and what the deal is with the label on it.
My guess is it is some kind of custom mix. If it works, great. I used PPG paint for 40 years, I really did not like DBU/DRR at all. The reducer had a very short shelf life. Surprised to see you have some that is usable.
DRR (Ditzler Reactive Reducer) has a catalyst in it. Regular ol reducer is best and doesn't have a shelf life. Once you crack open DRR you have about 2 to 4 weeks to use it depending on temp. If you look in the bottom of an old DRR can you might see what looks like a block of white plastic. Catalyst. If it's DAR then it air dried, but I'd bet a coffee you could force a fingerprint into it over the next 24-36hrs. It may have been labeled AND coded wrong, as DRR should have turned the DAR into snot balls in short order. If we had "smelliphones" I might could tell by the aroma. Catalyst for basecoats helps with repair issues and prevents edge crazing during repairs. Regular bases like Shopline or DBC can be catalyzed by adding a capful of DX-57 to a ready to spray quart of base. Adjust per volume of course. It will indeed cure standard bases faster and prevent gummed up paper if minor scuffs are needed before clear, and the no craze repair/recoat is handy too. FYI...
All good, couldn't put a fingerprint in the spray-out and I tried ! Everything sprayed out well today and per usual I managed to run the clear ( nothing new ! ) Thanks for the the help fellas.
I knowI'm late to the party but I was out of town yesterday when I saw this. Got home tonight and dug out a can of DAR I had from 1994. So, in case anybody needs it in the future here is the label on that can:
The Jalopy Journal
