Technical What are you working on?

Just one source. They come in a variety of tube sizes
https://www.zoro.com/parker-14-copp...9LzdUJVVaoNuRvKPMb-qMPVU8zwfmQhMaAiAdEALw_wcB

 

How does that actually fit on and what ?
Doe it go over the flare of the tube or threads of the nut part or inside the radiator on the bevel for the flare ?

 

It sit’s between the end of the tube and inside the seat of the female portion the fitting it goes to. What ever it may be. In your case the radiator.

I wonder if radiator fitting became ovaled slightly during welding?

 

It seems to be leaking at the threads, I wiped at the line and didn't get anything on my paper towel.
I'm going to put a shit load of teflon tape on it and see what happens, I put the standard 2-3 wraps on that earlier line but it did seem to be leaking at both the line and threads with that line.
Off to the Lube-Atory .....

 

Figured I had better knock off my personal projects and get a customer transmission done now that I have all the parts. Spent half a day cleaning parts.

 

What kind of Teflon tape are you using?
I like this when I have a leak. It works well.

Amazon.com: Millrose 70660 Monster Roll PTFE Thread Seal Tape, 1/2-Inch x 260-Inch, Blue : Industrial & Scientific

 

FYI the threaded nut on a flare fitting should never need any sealant. All the threads do is apply force to the tapered flare interface between the male and female part. Your leak is coming from only one place, either a nick, gouge, or split on one or the other, or in extreme cases, both. This was my experience from when I was a steam plant repairman and all leaks had to be controlled.

 

I would be looking at the threads for the flare nut to see that they go in far enough. I have run onto fitting that way.

 

The nut goes all the way to flare when not installed, the threads look to be about the same amount sticking out of the radiator as the other line.
I've made 3-4 different flares with different tools and have used different nut things on the line, really leaning towards the new radiator as the issue.
But it still leaked around the threads with the teflon tape.



Last hoo-raw will be to cut the old line back to where that test hose doesn't need a loop to fit and try another flare and nut at the radiator.
If it leaks then I'll be going to an external cooler.

 

After all that, and it still leaks, it's gotta be the fitting in the radiator. JMO

 

Make your own sealing washer from flat copper washer available at Ace Hardware. That’s what I do. Way cheaper and easier to find than the real deal already made.

 

I'm going to start drinking bloody Mary's, leaked worse with brand new line and factory flare, f'n thing.



I think I want something better than the short heat sink I had on it before, so I'll start Google search on the better stack style trans coolers. Most likely one without a fan since I'm not sure about room under the car and room left on the fuse panel to power it.
Old heat sink

 

just fitted bags to the back of my Fairlane

 

For the bloodies I recommend Dimetri's bartenders choice seasoning.
For the drippy tranny fitting I recommend conical seals, they are available in 37 and 45 degrees.

 

Tinkering with the rocker trim today. It's a new thing for 1962, you know. The retainers were missing, so I'm making my own, two pieces instead of one per side.

I don't know that the car really needs the rocker trim installed, but it takes up a lot of room in the shop. Also, the splash shields, I had to straighten this side quite a bit, still haven't tried to attach it.

 

I've had this problem a time or two with bad inverted flare fittings. I used lapping compound on a short length of flared tubing and lapped them until they were good. You should give it a try. Good luck

 

That stuff get’s into places real easy but hard to clean up. Like inside the side tank of the radiator.

 

On today's episode of cooking in the Southern California Inland Empire I am serving up the vintage car communities least favorite dish more rust removal (but we all love the results).
This 100+°F heat really sucks the life out if me so quickly after about 4 hours it's Stick a fork in me because I'm done but I digress.
Next is most of the detail body work to the pair of doors now that they are cancer-free, then getting the doors into rustoleum red oxide rusty metal primer.

 

Are you sure there's a corresponding inverted flare in the radiator fitting for the pipe to seal on?

 

I will tell you all you need to know about them.
They have a personality and they get jealous when they see you touching another car especially a vintage GM, You won't know the car is jealous but it will then break later when you are using it and dressed nice leaving You no choice but to crawl underneath it in a greasy parking lot doing a roadside fix... If your Ford product catches you cheating on it a few times it will drop a transmission or the unkillable 9" separating The axle shaft right out of the housing.
Ask me how I know lol.
Being serious a t-bird is awesome, I could never figure out why this body style and the proceeding one aren't more popular than they are considering they are big block powered personal luxury coupes They just lend themselves to so much cool customizing.

 

You just haven't owned a Rambler yet.
They don't break down.

 

What did you think of that flaring tool I've never used one I've always done it with the flairing tool that we've all used a million times. I saw a guy the other day on YouTube using the style flare tool and it looked interesting and intriguing and I'm wondering if I need to make it a new addition to my garage.

 

It's time to say Fuck It, hang a clutch pedal, and stuff a Rockcrusher in it!!!

 

Put a couple hundred miles on the old truck running around to pick up parts for the dually.

 

Yes, I was looking in there when the second flare also leaked, took a pick and ran it around the threads, then a Q-tip around that male flare thing in there, nothing caught or pulled any cotton off.

 

I liked it, sure was a heck of a lot easier than the old hand crank jobber.
The ad says it does single, double and bubble but the instructions said single double at the top of the page, so not sure about the bubble thing.

 

I definitely reverted back to my truck driving days and f'bombed just about everything out there, sometimes 3 times over lol
I ordered a stacked plate style cooler, I've had enough of crawling under the car changing lines.

 

Just got done rebuilding a NEW Hurst shifter! What a friggin joke! There was SOOOOO much clearance between the gates, (.125") Had to double shim between the 1-2 and reverse shift arm's to keep it from getting stuck in 2nd gear! Hurst quality isn't what it used to be! OH! On top of that the 3-4 shift plate had a severe crown in it that had to be flattened out! If you find an old Hurst shifter at a swap meet, buy it and rebuild it! It'll be better than the new junk!!!