Looking for the connector for brake light switch. Part number and a source please Thank's Terry aka dirt t
I likely have one around here like that. I replaced it with a OG push-on switch, I didn't think that connector would stay on.
you can also get that switch with screw terminals.... https://dmpeinc.com/brake-light-switch-pressure-type-6-32-screw-all76252/ https://bugeyeguyparts.com/products/brake-light-switch https://www.ebay.com/itm/402606948883 lots of varieties
I heard from on here people were having issues with that style of brake light switch. Either they don’t work at all or start leaking around the crimp. I’ve only ever used the style that attaches to the brake pedal arm.
Back when I worked for my friend Abe, at the auto wreckers, I would harvest one of those from an old GM a/c compressor on the friendly employee five finger discount plan. This time around, I needed one for the neutral safety switch so I ordered one from American Autowire. When it arrived with the cost of shipping, I realized that the older plan was much ore affordable.
These are good quality and are available in left and right https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/.../116313/automotive-truck-1955-chevrolet-truck Also 55 chevy car brake switches are good
Just an added note. I am running silicone brake fluid and that type of brake light switch. I went through several with leakage problems from the silicone. I went to a Harley Davidson brake light switch because Harley uses the same switch but uses silicone fluid. All my problems stopped right then. The last switch lasted 10 years before failing, so I couldn't blame silicone for the failure. I have 3 years on the current one.
My Ford I have set up to go with a pedal-switch if I need to. I can just run my spare BL wires back through the firewall. I should get a pedal switch and plan for that option.
I completely agree, however, go to the Harley dealership and buy an OEM switch, DO NOT buy an aftermarket one. The Harley part number is 72023-51E. The 51 at the end indicates it came out in 1951, but the E indicates it has been updated 5 times. The current price is about $33 for this switch at the dealership, however how many times do you want to have to replace a*****ty one and re-bleed the brakes?
A real PITA when the switch decides to***** out, though, even if you utilize connector to hook it up to the chassis wiring harness. Better option: Avoid using this style of switch entirely and use a mechanical one instead.
I use one from eBay, it trips at around #25 and I have had it in the car for 5 years. I bought another and have saved the seller. It still sits in the glove box. I think it was around $14 for the last one I got. The Napa one was pure junk, many things I got from Napa have taken a dump on me.
One kind of push on vs another type of push on ? Both rely on friction to stay connected , having used both types many times in many situations , I don't see an advantage to either . I'm of a mind switch secure mounting position & wire routing are far more important .
Was it more than 10 minutes ago ? But yes , the 2 types of terminals being discussed were t-/spade & male & female bullet . there were no further comments about threaded contacts that Im aware of .
72023-51E is what I have. I think their hydraulic switches are all the same. Iirc there was an improvement in the design which resulted in a slight part number change. I recall having no part number when at the dealership but they knew immediately the part required. Its a 1/8 npt thread. Mine has regular female blade connectors. Chris
I got the OG-ish Ford push-on connectors from The Wiring Depot, similar to solenoid ones. They really stay on well, I check them now and then. The other one that was 1st pictured, confidence was not high for me. Go with what you know.
The most common ones use the bullet style terminals, although you can find others. The real benefit is they won't leak brake fluid and if it does***** out, you don't have to crack open your brake system, risk fluid leaks, and then re-bleed.
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