Put two scrap 2x4s ahead and behind your largest tire. Measure between the insides of both scrap studs. You’re done. Be sure to build your stands so the wheel stops will prevent the car from rolling off! You’ll also have to consider how high your jack goes. If the stands are too high for your jack then you’ll have to get creative with blocks or get a longer jack that raises higher.
I tend to over build stuff. I used 4x4’s glued and screwed together, with a double deck plywood top and built in wheel chocks. Raises the car about 12” which is perfect for working under and still accessing the interior.
I don't remember the numbers but you can calculate the most efficient size from the given length of 2x4, say individual boards at 10 inches and some at 14 using a 10 ft long piece. I used a bunch of left over lumber from renovating a one bedroom apartment into more garage space, I have big n littles on my cars so I made two of them wider than the other two. If you Google "automotive wooden cribbing" I'm sure some plans will show up to take using your brain out of the equation.
that first pic you showed should have the boxes turned 90 degrees so the car can't roll off the boxes....that's scary.
Using soft wood like pine scares me, we always used hard wood when using cribbing to block equipment up in the air. I guess on an early Ford that only weighs about 2400# or less it's OK. I still don't like it.
Well... shipyards support many thousands of tons of steel ship hull on wood cribbing..... seldom see any of it fail. I would add some rope grips to maneuver them around. I use a LOT of wood blocks like this.
Yes,,,,,Ship yards and many construction people use wood . But,,,like Blues4U stated,,,,,,,always use hardwood . The shipyard groups use hardwood,,,,,,just like the railroad,,,,,,cross ties are very tough . Pine is okay for a light weight vehicle,,,,,but,,,they need to be perfect with no blemishes or knotholes . Never use fir,,,,,very soft and an accident waiting to happen ! Tommy
Doesn't look like it could roll off. The tires are sitting between the front and rear inside edges, not on top.
Unless your wood , screws / nails Free Race blocks like pictured above , Lighter , can carry all 4 @ 1 time, Can set on wheel dolly's move vehicle around in shop & work nice with pit Pro jacks
Just a thought, but as much as I've fretted over an uncooperative caster on my car dollies, why none of the examples were built on casters to provide mobility as well.
Yeah, the tires sit down inside the opening of the frame, so literally no way they could roll off. Especially with the 16" lengths. Sure if you made them with 12" lengths, then the tires would be sitting "on" the blocks vs "in" them like I have, then it would be an issue.
Considering that the tires aren't strapped or secured to the framework at all, you've raised the center of gravity and adding in casters would only amplify the risk of catching on a seam in the concrete and the whole thing tipping. I keep a set of car skates handy for moving cars around, then once they're where I want them, I jack them up onto the 2x4 stands.
Considered the condition of my floor while working over a set of car dollies with anchored stands to move a body shell around, with some thought out revisions may try them supporting off a frame as opposed to the wheels. With a bit of caution the stands such as caprockfabshop has fabricated with added end stops, look to be adaptable to casters.
I typically build cribbing from 4x4s simply because it takes fewer pieces to reach the same height. They'll also have a greater bending strength.
Awesome question! I have asked several times on here and ALWAYS forgot to write down the replies! Have some leftover 2x from some Menards packing to use up.
The Jalopy Journal
