So, after spending much time and effort building a new dashboard out of wood, I was doing some fitting and suddenly realized that the back of the speedometer goes directly on top of my steering wheel support bracket. (3" x 1/4" steel) Seems like the only choices right now (besides starting over) are to drill a hole large enough for the cable to pass through (in an awkward position) or using a right angle adapter. Those are kind of pricey, and a lot of them say they are transmission mount adapters. Does anyone know of any cars that used them originally that I might find in a boneyard ? It's a Ford automatic with 5/8" threads. https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain...0-degree-speedometer-cable-adapter/710809_0_0
Many older style speedometer cables use 5/8" threads at the speedometer, and 7/8" at the transmission. Which means you are not likely to find the part that you need, unfortunately. Some guys just give up on cables and use electronic speedometers....no issue with cable clearance on them.
If that column drip is behind the dash, I'd drill a big hole (2+"?) in the drop. @e1956v , other suggestions?
That 90 degree adapter is your only option, and it was always aftermarket. I guess I don’t consider $75.00 pricey maybe I’m missing something.
When you're living on a fixed income, everything is pricey ! That's more than I have in the bank right now.
No offence meant, just don't think you will find a cheaper option other than drilling the hole. If the angle is to extreme on the cable even after drilling the hole, you'll have troubles with the speedometer cable breaking.
It looks like 70 is the going price before shipping. Amazon.com: AUTO METER 990414 Right Angle Speedometer Adapter : Automotive If the column bracket could be unbolted I would pulling it out and modifying it.
Find a circa '70s or '80s Elgin street sweeper in a scrap yard; there should be a 90 degree adapter screwed on the back of the speedo.
The biggest twist drill I have is 5/8, which is plenty big enough for the cable; but getting the head thru will require at least a full inch. I'm not sure my bi-metal hole saws are up to the task of quarter inch thick plate.
If you have a die grinder and a carbide burr you can open up a 5/8 hole to an inch, or just buy a good hole saw.
We had a speedometer cable making kit at work, it was pretty easy to use. Just slip the ends over the bare cable, them use a special die to crimp the ends down. With something like that, you would only need a small hole to get the cable through, then add the end later. http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/speedo.asp I would bet if you worked at it a while, you could get the end off the cable housing, you might have to remove the whole thing from the car.
Mission Accomplished ! After drilling an 1/8" pilot hole, I started with a one inch hole saw, knowing I needed it that big. Almost immediately the pilot drill bit breaks. Find another one, and it slips because it doesn't have an indent to hold in place. Grab the 5/8 twist drill and it digs in pretty good, but gives out about halfway thru, even with regular oiling. Next comes a step drill bit and it digs in pretty quickly too, but at about a half inch hole, the shaft breaks. (It also locked up, and twisted the drill out of my hand and took out the tachometer... ) T Still a bit of shaft left to grab onto and get a little further before it breaks. Then it's time for the die grinder. Lots of grinding without much progress, switching between an angle grinder and a short air drill and three different bits. Two bits end up having the shaft break free from the stone and the third is a large cone shaped. I switch back to my old reliable Chicago Electric half inch drill and next thing you know, I'm through. But the bit is now smaller ! A lot of material came off the bit, but also enough off the metal to get the cable thru: just barely ! Thanks to all you guys for your help and suggestions.
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