Projects built lots of cars, but never a 32 roadster...

^^^^^
Alchemy pic ,
Originals Doors have a Chanel for
The seal ,

 

All good on the bypass line
Got a fitting on Amazon - Four Seasons 84505
And used the Gates 18701 hose that Joe Blow suggested...

 

Tail lights came out tucked in like I hoped

 

Eeny, meeny, miny, moe - can someone please tell me which arm you use on a 32 Ford (long or short)?
I'd rather not struggle with figuring it out...thanks in advance.

 

Refer to post #460

 

Long for 28-32. Short for 33-34.

 

I appreciate you chiming in...
I tried, but not sure how to do that.
I did search for "32 Ford hood prop" before posting the question.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/img_4971-jpeg.5793212/

Post #460

 

Thanks for all your helpful suggestions~
I finally got a great brake pedal (4th master cylinder, actually rebuilt the 3rd and hit paydirt)
I got the door gap fixed, it took 3/8" of shims under the rear of the driver's door jamb to get the rear gap right. The cause and effect of shimming and tightening bolts amazes me - hard to predict what will happen - I guess I'll get it after doing a few more of these.
Installing the hood prop was a piece of cake after seeing that #460 photo.
Hoping to p/u my windshield today, got a deal on a piece of glass from a guy in Manchester NH - $125

 

Good price on the glass!

 

Man, installing the windshield really brings it to life. Thanks for the hookup, Jersey Don !

 

My driver's door latch sticks when I close the door and it is a bitch to get the door open again (basically have to flex things and beat on the inside of the latch with my fist).
Wondering if I should take a little material off the pointy tip of the striker? OR try something else?

 

Looking good Scott!

 

I taught my 12 year old son how to solder and he's been a huge help!

 

Nice dash insert! Looks familiar?

 

When I put the 3/8" shim under the body at the bolt next to the door jamb (to get the driver side rear door gap right), it seems to have made the bottom corner of the passenger door go inward (top is great).
The bottom of the passenger side door is now sub-flush to the quarter panel.
Where do I shim to remedy this?

 

If all the gaps are good, maybe it’s time to twist the door.

 

Stick a rolled-up towel between the bottom of the door and the sill at the rear corner of the door and push the top in to twist it?

 

Grab both back corners and twist? Do whatever way is comfortable for you. Go slow.

 

Before doing anything too drastic I think I'd be removing that last shim and starting over. 3/8 is a pretty big one! Depending on the movement required you can affect the rear of the door by making the cowl tilt forwards by shimming the mount just ahead of the front of the door then pulling the front of the floor down at the front floor bolt. The door movement is magnified by the length of the door, so a lesser shim might be required and this might not put other things out of whack. Whack a mole indeed
Chris

 

Thanks for the advice!
3/8" IS a big shim...I'll give your suggestion a try.
UPDATE - I went out there and took a hard look at it. Are you talking about the body bolt that is the first one that's NOT under the floorboard? I'm not sure that one is close enough to the door jamb to get the effect you speak of.
If you're talking about the 2 bolts that go on the flat part under the floor board, if I shim under those, the cowl is going to get all out of whack and the hood probably wont fit.
Not sure what to do?

 

So I tried your suggestion- the result was that the door went way higher than the top edge of the quarter panel to get the door gap right... Not even close to getting the dovetail in the slot.
The amount of shim it took was actually .350" under the rearmost door post. I put that amount in there and tightened all the body bolts down.
To fix the door on the passenger side, I wrapped a 2x4 with a towel and put it in the bottom of the door, back corner- - I then leaned my hip into the top of the door a few times and twisted it- it's perfect now.
Time to move on to the next step.

 

Show it who's boss!

 

You all have seen plenty of photos is my car in the almost finished state, so the body color and wheel/tire combo is set. The interior will be carpet and Naugahyde...
Please chime in with recommendations on interior color - I'm, thinking black or tan (of some sort).

~Thanks

 

Black interior can get uncomfortably hot.

 

+1 what Phil said. Go from there.

 

Almost there

 

Haven't posted any updates lately because I've been trying to wrangle this wiring situation - this is the first time I've wired a car from scratch, not using a pre-fabricated kit. I've learned quite a few things from doing this (like put all the heavy gauge wires in first and then the light gauge). I've also learned that more modern fuse panels, such as the one made by coach controls with board mounted relays are much neater and cleaner than separate relays. The 25-year-old Centech panel that I'm using is somewhat worthless- the only thing I'm really using it for is a few circuits and the flashers - as you can see in the photos, I had to install another auxiliary circuit panel and ground bus to connect all the relays. Centech panel also doesn't play well with separate dashboard, mounted switches and a GM type steering column connection.
The biggest thing I'm disappointed with is that I tried to keep it as neat as possible (I'm a freak about order) and it's still ended up looking like a bird's nest to me.
My next task is to install the dashboard and steering column and then make the rest of the connections.

 

Tedious work, takes a lot of patience. Are you using a fusible link or a main circuit breaker?