if you post photos of what you have, I am sure people on this forum will be willing to point you in the right direction……….…. ………….
Clem. I showed some pictures before on the chop and inside the roof. Its a matter of taste how to do it plus the best way to fix the chop Right now its a nightmare. Doors upper is bend and to much gap so it might need a small re-chop. I'm no metalguy so I has to say what I like to be done. If I can get rid of the ugly parts of the old extension on roof say 1/2" I might lean pillars back, but I more start to enjoy the std pillar ( plus if that was the old way )
Now I understand your dilemma…….. Hard to say, just looking at a couple of photos, but it looks like you would would be better off to chop it again and trim out the undesirable pieces. Whether you lean the pillar back or add in a new piece of roof, is just personal preference. Traditional way would be to add in the roof section, as @alchemy and @krylon32 have already alluded to.
Years ago I gave the body shop an old top side which has furnished him with the filler pieces for many years. That way he didn't have to fabricate a piece of drip rail.
Clem, post was about Tonys shop height, not really my coupe. But Yes I will do the std pillar the more I look into this. Now I'll just waith on Tony's window height numbers !
International time differences mean that we, at the bottom of the world, miss more posts than most ! Sorry, - but I have obviously missed some of your previous threads.
This is the only shot I have on my phone right now. This coupe’s lineage can be traced back to 1973, and it was a beat up old hot rod then. I’d say it was chopped in the 50’s. About a 5-1/2” chop, straight down.
Today I checked a std 5W coupe. Behind the door from upper body contour to the water drop list it was 463 mm or 18.22". My car had 387 mm or 15.23". That mean my car is chopped exact or very near 3" ( as I knew since before ) This might be the most easy way check a cars chop. No news yet from Tony T on his cars chop height
@Chopped Tudor , would you be able to help @3w Hank with the measurement of your five window, as described in the prior post?
I’ve always just measured the glass showing. looking at the photo below, and the gap at the top of the door, maybe the door is not exactly the same as the body. chopped in 1973, maybe not old enough, but at least it does have the traditional ‘caravan’ rubber moulding holding the windshield in.
Clem, Yes check window heights works but I think the part I describe show roof position down better. I saw a other 5W today and it had roof not extended and lower part of pillars was std angle but half way up they had bended it ( old time chop ) Another body ( red ) had the same style of chop. Maybe it was a common way.
The upper and lower door hinge pins must remain in line with each other for the door to swing properly, hence the A pillar cut above the hinge.
maybe that is why the original photo in post 1, looks like it does. possibly leaned back from above the hinge ? Or just camera angle………?..
My A Pilars are leaned back, I don’t know how much. The chop was done in the 50’s. my car may look chopped more than 3” due to the heavy rake and the wheelbase being extended 3/4”.
My is almost equal in front window at 9.5”. Rear window is 6”. The numbers I think tell the chop best is on my car 15.25”, se picture. I checked a very nice totally std 5W and it was 18.25”. I will check a even better car next week. That is so nice so it look it was build yesterday.
Tony, I think if one like the rear wheels in the wheel openings perfect it needs to be extended 3/4”. I’m not there yet but I will use a std 32 rear cross and a 37 axle/spring and 16” steel wheels on 7.50 tires or Halibrand solids 6” wide. I has the 4.50 fronts aswell and will use std tank, splitted 32 bones and a dropped from 50's 34 front axle. -You meantion ’rake’ is that the look or is something that was 'modify' ? Your car has the ’perfect’ look, my way see it, and so far I has never seen a more nice flow 32 5W. Its not that easy get that look !
what I mean by rake is the big and little tires and the way the chassis is set up to get it super low. Thanks for the love.
Oh, so I’m on same page there. You mention its 3/4” more WB than a std 32, so was front cross moved and do you has a A-Ford cross ? My axle is 4” dropped. -Last question is hood std 32 or longer ?
The front crossmember is completely flat with a mono leaf spring and 5 “ drop axel. It’s moved forward 3/4” the hood is 3/4” longer.
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