Technical 1941 Ford 1/2 TON, PICTURE NEEDED

Responding to both of these comments, I think that is my best move. Remove the deflector panel, put the hood on, use my new borescope to take a view inside around the radiator and make some plans for a hood brace and alteration to the deflector panel. Like X says, the radiator is what it is, everything else is subject to be played with. I want to brace that hood so it doesn't crack again at those thin cutouts.

 

This is a bit crude, but I would guess I am close. Using the pic that @1oldtimer posted above of our hoods, the yellow slot is where I think my existing hole is in the air deflector panel in the first couple of pictures that I posted above to begin this thread. That would put the top of the radiator where the red lines are, well behind the cutouts that must have been made for the 6-cylinder truck so they could kick the radiator forward to account for the longer engine. If that is correct, I could build a brace (blue lines) to incorporate the latch and reinforce those hood sides. Maybe a bolt in? Maybe weld the side bracing in and add a bolt site for the latch?

 

I was thinking some quick measuring from the latch plate to the front of the radiator will get you close, then use a straight edge or long ruler on top of the radiator and measure from the underside of the ruler to the top of the fender for how much it's into the hood cavity.

On mine I was thinking 1/4 bar stock for the frame (2 pieces running across), bend one around the existing latch, heat up and flatten the ends, drill out for bolts. Make a flat piece with (holes of course) maybe 18g-20g, weld it into the center and bolt on the underside of the hood lip. You can create an arch of you need room for the radiator and the bar stock will hold its shape (but flat is better). I was thinking of using the existing holes but they aren't close enough to the edge for me.......I'm Mr. overkill .

My crappy paint drawing.....

 

Or if you want it to be hidden you can follow the inner hood curve with bar stock, put in a couple of pieces to tie it together. Something like 3/8" bar stock for the main part and 3/16" for the ties. Then paint it hood color (black).

 

I’m really grateful to you guys for figuring this out.
My truck was a 6cyl and has the same cutouts in the hood. Tried several ways to mate the
40 Standard/PU grille pieces to the 6 cyl. hood latch plate, but gave up and decided on a bungee cord.

 

Yeah, that would work. Since my hood is not in paint yet I am considering welding a reinforcement along both sides where those cut outs are. I am thinking flat bar and plug weld to it from the bottom of the hood. Maybe bolts would be sufficient and less likely to warp anything. But Yes, I like filling that entire area in front of the radiator. I might even drop a light or two in there angled back toward the engine for late night showing off, er I mean breakdowns.

I had no idea a few days ago that there were so many differences in these hoods and latches on what appears to be the same damn truck. Hopefully it will help others trying to make sense of it all.

From what I gathered here, the 40 hood does not have those cutouts on the side, they were provisions for the longer 6 cylinder's radiator in 41. But all 41's used that hood and latch by the end of the model year.

 

Wow, I’m glad my picture has been of so much use.

Don’t they all? Lol.

My guess as to the hood changes is they ran out of the 1940 or V8 only hoods and just used what was left that would work… the 6 cyl hood, knowing things were changing in a couple months anyway.

Good call on the bracing. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

 

Here is another oddity that may or may not hold water, however I did hear on the internet so it must be factual. I heard that not only does the 6 cylinder PU have the radiator pushed forward to accommodate the longer engine but that the 6ers also had a lower front crossmember to shorten the height of the radiator and beveled top tank to clear the hood?

What say thee, Oh thou the only true fount of automobile knowledge on the net?

 

True

 

I seem to remember reading about it in the "good book", the 40-41 p/u book from the Ford club. I'll check it when I get home.

 

Here is a picture of two of my previous builds of these trucks...you'll notice the difference of the 6cyl vs V8 in these crossmembers.

 

Wow, that is a deep crossmember! So Henry changed the frame, radiator, hood latch, upper grille assembly, different tailgate and cut notches in the hood just to a 6er in there? He always seemed so...frugal.

Was there a big demand for the 6? Shortage of V8s? War caused? I must be missing something.

 

1941 p/u engine differences are 4 cyl option, 6 cyl option in spring '41. 6 cyl differences from the V8 are front crossmember, front frame extensions, the hood latch setup, front fender bracing around the radiator, battery moved to the drivers side so it got different inner fenders and lower grille chin.

The '40 only had a V8, but '41 they wanted more engine options. They got rid of all the V8 references for the '41 (Ford on the tailgate and Ford on the hubcaps even with a V8).

6 cyl has more torque, but also was more rare then the V8 and possibly the 4 cyl. The one reason I can think of for the later V8s having 6 hood stuff is that's it's cheaper to make more universal parts and the 6 cyl body parts would fit all.

 

I had no idea. We always say that 35 -40 cars and 41 trucks share the same frame. But that is not accurate as we just discussed. I learnt sumthin new again.

 

That's from the '40/'41 book "Two Great Trucks", I just read books by smart people.

 

1940 was the last year for the V8-60, their economy engine and only other engine option. In 41 they introduced the 4 cyl tractor engine as the economy option, prob for farmers. I’d be curious why they made a straight 6 too. Because the other car makers had one? Seems everyone always wanted the V8 though anyway.

 

I do as well, but I learned in college not to plagiarize them. My English teacher was not impressed by a term paper I copied, he found numerous errors and I couldn't tell him I copied the damn thing!

It seems Henry spent a lot of money fixing something that wasn't broken...and 82 years later we all build V8s.

 

One other thing you probably already noticed, there's no real adjustment on the main hood latch. If your hood latching is extra firm like mine you can't easily adjust things to make it latch softer and in turn make the hood release handle last longer (or the hood not crack). Seems if one can make the process easier on the components while still maintaining a good lock everything will last. The main locking part (the part that keeps the main latch from backing off) is the arm from the hood latch (hook) and the hood latch release arm. When the release handle is in it's closed position, both arms are over center and create a perfect locking mechanism. The only real area to play with is either the latch plate height or the catch plate height. This is of course after you make sure all corresponding sheet metal is straightened. I have to check my hood panel first.

 

I haven't installed the latch yet. I finally found a toothed washer I like to secure the hinges to the cowl. @Pist-n-Broke suggested F100 washers and I found a set of 4 on ebay and received them yesterday. These should do the job. Once installed and my hood anchored at the back, I will move the latch.