I have search the threads concerning oil filters on a Ford flathead V8. I have an 8BA flathead mostly assembled and was going to use a bypass type oil filter since I had most of the bits needed for same. It looks like the block I have (prepared by Dave Tatom - now deceased) was prepped for a full flow oil system so I want to make sure I do this right. There was a large hole on the back of the block that has been tapped above where the two stock holes are I was just going to block this off with a plug. If I understand the info on the other threads I have read, the supply for the oil filter comes from the top of the factory hole on the back of the block and the return goes to the hole in the side of the block just above the oil pan rail? Is that correct? It looks like there needs to be a plug in the horizontal factory hole on the back of the block to block off the passage that intersects with the vertical factory hole? Is that right? I've seen some references to a restrictor that needs to go on line some where to keep oil pressure up, where should that go? Oh, anyone know the correct size thread for the drain back into the block? I seemed to have lost the piece that fit there. Am I going to have any issues with the large hole drilled for a full flow filter system if I just plug it? I think that's all I appreciate the help Craig
Unfortunately, I do not know. Dave never mentioned anything about the modifications to me. The machine shop that did the final work on the block brought it to my attention.
If it were mine, I would use the full-flow system as Dave set it up, but YMMV If you do use a partial-flow system you'll need to put a restrictor somewhere between the block and inlet of the filter.
Yeah, I’d use it as he designed. Somewhere, someone has the specs, and hopefully they’ll be along soon.
That looks like the 95% flow set up. check to see if a plug is installed in the gallery per this article. It is very important to get thr pressure and return to th filter correct. Reverse and engine can starve for oil. filter.htm If it is the full flow 100% the set up is different and you would need to research it. FFfilterBills.htm John
Now I find myself leaning towards the no filter school of thought. As indicated, the motor is mostly assembled now so it appears the engine would have to come apart and more work/expense/modifications added to use the 100% or 95% set up. I certainly don't want to make a mistake and starve the engine of oil, I've got WAY too much $ into this thing the way it is. It's going to be limited use, so more frequent oil changes are not the end of the world. I should have asked all these questions before I started assembling...lessons learned! Thanks for all the input!
If its prepped for a full flow system there may be mods to the internal oil passage to direct flow to a filter. You need to know for sure that it has or has not been modded.
Or, would there be harm in using the 95% set up if there was not a high volume oil pump installed? As long as the routing to the filter is correct would that be a bad idea? Would a restrictor still be needed to do it that way? Just thinking out loud here, I don't have any depth of knowledge on all this. I just know I have spent WAY more money on this project than intended and really could have bought something turn key and had money left over! But, where's the fun in that?
I will investigate further, the holes on the back of the block do appear to be enlarged as outlined in the article cited. Not sure if there is a plug in there or not will be easy to determine.
I would recommend using the 95% system as it appears the block has been machined for. Originally the top hole on the casting boss was for the oil pressure sending unit ans the side hole was either plugged or had a hose going to the bypass style oil filter (original). My engine with filter; you can see the lines connected to the block. Connections to the block. The lower is directly out of the pump to the inlet of the filter and the upper is the return from the filter to the extra hole in the block to feed the main oil galley. There is a pipe plug in the original passage between the black plug (in picture) and the upper fitting to force oil to pass through the filter.
Seems pretty straightforward, do you happen to know the manufacturer and/or part number of your spin on oil filter adapter? I think I was confusing the three different types of systems (95%/100%/ by pass) I was envisioning having to rip apart the engine and make all the modifications to the oil pump and so on to do the 100% system. Seems as if I am set up for the 95% set up here and I am hoping I can fabricate something to use a set up like you have to the mounting spot on the drivers side cylinder head. What size are your hoses?
I had an interest in putting a flathead in my 40 Ford. I bought a lot of books and did a research. I am like a squirrel and file every good "nut" for future use. The Canadian military trucks and equipment used full flow oil filters on the Ford flathead engines. Carl from Roseville on here did a good write up that I saved. There are a couple more as well so you can see if the machine shop did the oil plug install for the full flow system.
I think I have a fairly good grasp of the differences here now, will verify the items noted to confirm its all set up for 95% filtering.
Was hoping I could use this set up as I already have it but I think the fittings may be too small compared to the set up that Joel is using. Not sure how critical that is, I believe this one has 1/4" lines.
If the fittings are too small you may be able to replace them with larger ones, depending on the size of the threaded holes in the filter adapter. I'd say you want 1/2" lines for that system.
I believe I bought the remote filter mount from Summit and I used "push loc " hose. I also bought some of the -8 ( 1/2 ") fittings there . I also got some from Aeroquip ( now Eaton Aeroquip). The large size hose is to minimize the pressure loss from the pump to the bearings . I didn't use a high volume pump as I don't think it's necessary. I do have a PCV system.
I just noticed you are in Bellingham, WA! I lived in Ferndale for 18 years until moving down to TX 2 years ago.
The plot thickens... The drilled hole in the back of the block is 5/8" 18 which should be okay. The original holes on the boss are 3/8" NPT but the hole drilled horizontally between the original boss and the large hole is 27/64" and is not tapped... Perhaps I can find a suitable diameter rod and cut a plug to JB Weld in there? I guess I could tap it and try and vacuum out the metal shavings while doing so? Hate to rip the engine apart to do any of this. Any thoughts?
If I understand what you are saying, it looks like the conversion to 95% flow was started, but not completed. If this is so, you would be well served getting someone involved that understands how the conversion works. I personally prefer the original partial flow system on a stock or near stock engine, given the way these cars are now used.
What Tubman said. If your passage connecting the side hole to the top hole is not plugged you could put a plug in the top hole and you are back to stock. Take a tie wrap and push it through the top hole and make sure it comes out the side hole. Trying to cut threads or JB weld is not worth the time and risk in my opinion. The side holes normally are used for pressure gage and or partial flow filter. John
So, you basically have an extra diagonal hole that was drilled and tapped, but no other mods. Just plug the top of the new diagonal hole and you are right back to how Henry built it. I have the original 5% filtering system on my flathead and change the oil once a year. It sure needs it (looks very dirty), but I'd say that's probably the archaic ventilation's fault rather than the filter's fault.
I don't think I explained myself correctly or perhaps I am not understanding the modification for the 95% filtering properly? According to the diagram for the 95% conversion as supplied by ydopen (see below) there is a horizontal passageway between the original horizontal and vertical holes on the cast in boss at the back of the block and the added hole which is designated for the oil return from the filter. The diagram shows that this horizontal passageway should be plugged between the old/original holes and the new hole that has been added. I presume that this keeps the oil flowing under pressure from the oil pump to the filter and then to the new hole for the return? Without this plug I gather that oil will not be completely directed to the filter. The desire on my part was to go with the 95% set up since most of the work appears to have been done. I just need a way to reliably plug that passageway between the original holes and the new hole. Without any good options to do that I suppose I am back to the by pass filter option and can simply plug the new hole and be done with it.
Yup. Can't imagine why they would drill for the new diagonal hole, but not tap for the horizontal inner plug. Makes no sense. You tapping for that plug now, in a main route of the oil flow in a fully assembled engine, is just asking for trouble.
JB Weld too risky you think? If so then back to the bypass set up it is. Sure wish I would have investigated this here before putting the motor together but it had been languishing for 3 years between machine shops and I was eager to get this thing moving.
You may may be doing yourself a favor by going to a stock bypass filter. Unless you are building an engine for racing, a bypass filter is probably a better method for cleaning your oil, especially the ways these cars are maintained and used. With a quality element, they filter out finer particles than a full flow system. And what is a "full-flow" system anyway? How about one where all of the oil in the engine passes through the filter every 10 minutes? One of the members on "The Ford Barn" did an experiment on this and came up with the figure stated for a stock bypass system. The only way a full-flow system is better than a bypass system is that it will catch big chunks quicker. However, in the environment these cars see, how often will you encounter one? How often do you drive down a dirt road these days? How about never. Since these are relatively valuable cars, they are maintained better than required and are usually stored under optimal conditions. I know that I have never put over 2000 miles on the oil and filter in my '51 Ford with annual oil changes. I am a great fan of JB Weld, but I would stay away from it for something like this. If you insist on an epoxy solution, look into Belzona or Dev-Con for a product designed for this specific use. I also agree with @alchemy about tapping an existing engine. Put a stock bypass filter on it and enjoy it.
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