Hello, I'm in the process of getting a 1959 El Camino back on the road. Planning on posting a documentation of the whole process when I get the time and photos together (and the main work finished). Currently working on drivetrain installation with a TKX transmission and 350 SBC. After an initial transmission installation I found the engine no longer rotated by hand, so piece by piece everything came off. With the transmission off it still didn't rotate so the bellhousing and cylinder heads were removed. With the heads removed the crankshaft rotates. It looks like the heads are decades old, and the driver's side has rust holes in the water jacket right at the front intake manifold port. Does this warrant replacement? I figured I may be able to lay wire mesh over and apply JB weld, assuming these holes are supposed to be here. It does appear to wrap around to the right with the photo orientation, it's impossible to say how much further has rusted through. I think I may also have stuck valves on this head so work will have to be put in one way or another. Thanks.
While I am not a SBC person, just replace the heads, there are plenty of them around. This should eliminate any problems to come later with those heads.
Yea, unless they are some sort of rare heads, there is no reason to mess with those from all you describe. SBC heads are plentiful and cheap.
That's wild, I've seen a lot of rusted out stuff in my lifetime here in Wisconsin, I don't think I ever saw that on an engine that wasn't laying in the woods for decades. Fascinating pictures, I wonder why they corroded open like that? Either way, I'd definitely replace those, no way I would trust a repair. A repair that came loose could flip up and completely block the passage.
Thanks everyone! Pretty puzzled myself on how this would have happened... Figured it might be a no go with these, I'll start looking into some new heads.
If the heads are that rotten, I'd bet the block is junk too. I'd be looking for another engine and not one out of boat that's been exposed to salt water
Yeah I'm concerned of the quality of the block. I looked down around the cylinders and saw a decent bit of powdered rust, I'll try to clean out in those pockets and see if there's damage. Are there other spots to check? FWIW, the passenger side head doesn't appear to have any degredation.
It looks like there's an epoxy or something else repair at the valve cover gasket surface, what's going on there? More reason to give up on it.
I believe that is silicone of some kind, likely to keep the valve cover gasket in place when installed, but can't say for sure. I took another look at the block itself and I'm inclined to say it's OK. There is an oxide layer in the water jackets, but it's solid through, at least where I can see. Very little comes off when wiped by finger. Would minimal cleaning cause issues in the future? I figure a coolant purge every once in awhile would clean it up over time.
Based on the condition of the head, if the head is indeed rotted through, I wouldn't trust the block (assuming the block has been exposed to the same conditions that rotted the head). The block may appear fine (meaning no visible holes) but you really have no idea how thin the metal you are looking at is. That being said, if you feel like gambling, toss on some heads and get it running, it's the only way to find out if you lucked out or not
That's true, no way of knowing for sure. It's quite easy to get heads on and get it running, if the block causes me issues I'll know why, then it's on to looking for a new block.
If I were to venture a guess, I would say you have a saltwater boat engine there. Nothing to stop you from running the block, but check it well, flush it with clean water, many times. I would take the chance, why spend money when you don't have to
From this picture, it looks like you need to check the cylinder walls also. That dark streak in the middle of the tan area looks like it may be more than surface rust. Also check all the cylinder head bolt hole threads. That rust around them may just be residue from bolts when you pulled the heads, but if some of it came from the block threads, now is the time to find out.
Looks like there is plenty of rust that needs to "disappear". I'd disassemble the engine and pressure wash it or clean the oil off/out . Once thats done, get a plastic garbage can or maybe a plastic 55 gal drum with an open top. Set the block in it and fill it with a mixture of citic acid powder and water. Let it sit for several weeks while stirring it occasionally. Just fill it slightly higher than the motor. Lift it out and hose it off. If not clean enuff to suit you, put it back in for a while longer. It will dissolve the rust. May have to replace the cam bearings. Its very gentile cleaner and over time even those water jackets will look almost new. You can get a 25 lb container of powdered citric acid for about $60 on Amazon. I'm waiting for one right now..........
That’s not an inlet port it’s a coolant passage. It looks to me like really bad casting flash or on issue with the plugs in the mould. If you need new valves and guides etc. just go get a ready built set of off the shelf iron heads it won’t be much difference in cost.
Went around the cylinder walls, they are feeling smooth and even. Seems like staining occurred at some point. Threads all look good fortunately. I don't have an engine hoist on hand at the moment, I'm sure I'll pick one up sooner than later. I'd love to get it as good as I can. For the time being I have some heads I'm picking up in a few days and will do some water jacket flushes until it's acceptable. Close eye on engine behavior and will be prepared for a possible failure down the road.
Those are knackered. Get some different heads. As everyone else has said, SBC heads are cheap, and common as fleas on a hound.
I‘ve never seen anything like that. Someone has mentioned salt water exposure, that would make sense. I had a block that was rusted solid after a few nice families had moved and had peed in every corner . But no holes or deep pittings in neither Block or heads , but the pushrods were rusted out. If the block is looking good, I‘d just run it and find a good set of used small chamber heads .
Is it just me, or does none of those underside pictures actually show the holey area? The head sure does look like it has salty rust, if any of it is still wet, that pretty much confirms it. Salt oozes out of the metal. The block looks good though, perhaps they weren't together for a long time. I skimmed the deck surface of a salt water cooled engine years ago, the next day the freshly machined decks had nasty rust oozing out of the formerly clean surface.
Yup, there is no rust damage on the mating surface of the head. The rust tore through the floor of the top channel, but there is a second channel below it that is still intact. There is no moisture left in the engine, or oil for that matter. I was able to get a deal on some rebuilt, small chamber heads nearby, I'm hoping this is the only engine trouble I run into!
I realize that you are trying to do the job cheaply, but you also have to do it right. The engine needs disassembly, and cleaning and rehoning. If you think the "bores feel smooth" and the engine rotates now that the heads are off are sufficient indications of a good engine, I think you will be making a big mistake.
Maybe he can just put this engine together for cheap and run it while he builds the engine of his dreams.
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