Subtle little bugger isn't it...you had me doing the where's Waldo...but I found it... I have a 36 GBD and it too has an unusual spring setup that I haven't fixed yet...
I think I might have found the problem… I think the little bracket the spring pops into might be missing or I just didn’t see it? Because it worked fine before and I know I didn’t cut anything off the dash. I found some pictures of the backside and I think that that little ears might be missing or I just didn’t see them?
Well, I went back through this thread and found this picture before I took the dash apart and right after I sandblasted it. the glove box door was attached before, so maybe I just didn’t see those little tabs that the spring pops into. I guess I’ll find out when I get home.
The bracket is on the bottom of the door opening in the picture you posted. The spring also acts as the door hinge pin. You might need to take ou the glove box liner to get the door on and the spring/hinge connected. The tail that sticks out gets positioned under the glove box liner.
Got er’ licked now! Boy are those little bastard tabs tucked in there! You just don’t see them. If you forgot, they were there which I did. Plus I can’t see squat these days. Nice now it’s finally works, and looks proper!
Did A Few Safety Things Before the Dolls’ first “Car Outing”At the local Burger Cruize! So the Mrs. Would Feel Safer in a 90 Year old Sharp-Edges, no Crash zone old School Metal Car! (and yes, the old school gate latches work awesome!) no suicide doors flying open on this rig!!
...I have the deluxe model locks... My car was delivered with the note to use them to as the doors on occasion popped open...However I adjusted the door latch and that doesn't happen anymore. I do use the passenger side bolt to lock it when I'm out and about...The handle locks on the driverside though so bolt is not needed... My doors aren't suicide though...but if they pop open on a curve or turn it can be a little alarming especially without the belts... Glad you are getting out and smiling...Hotrod looks fantastic...
Thanks, Stogy! That’s funny, I have the same latches, just in black, except for my door jam and the door are 2 different heights, without some modification, I just put those hooks on because they were easy. I like your aircraft lookon your car doors. Do you have some full-size pictures? I never saw your car’s, other than that Rusty thing on your avatar. Lol!
Thanks! That’s funny, my cousin we used to call him Woog! Or Wooger! Because his name was William and his dad called him a little booger, so that he just called him Wooger!
Yeah, we had a blast! Can’t believe how many people ask questions and love the Flathead because it’s so rare, in the sea of Chevy overhead valve motors! Some young people thought it was a V6 because of the three exhaust exits! Have to check out the front brakes though. It was scary when I went to hit the brakes hard to stop at the light and started making weird noises in spring pops. wouldn’t stop very well. Seems like one of the shoes is hanging up or the wheel cylinders is not pushing out on one side and then all of a sudden it lets go and grabs.
That Ole 40 Nash......I will see what I have...yes there's an aviation theme on this Hotrod...not too overdone either...Jerry has a Military past in his Family...he does tributed details in many of his rides...It really has a plausible post WWII connection...even though its a 2010 build...
...Is there a chance only one piston is pushing out and one is seized? Another maybe...If the spring top/on spring top was reversed would it perhaps anchor the retainer better? ...Or is there a chance it's so far out of adjustment it is pushing the shoe out way to far and there's still barely any contact to the drum...a false impression when pre adjusting that it was near where it should be... I'm not a mechanic, I just have some minimal knowledge from doing them over the years...and you remind me, I must do mine as they are well overdue for maintenance...
The retract springs should be strongly pulling the shoes back onto the anchor pins. Can you push on the shoes retracting the wheel cyls and get them back into place? If the sharp edges of the shoe are digging into the support plate and causing the hang-up; maybe smooth off the edges and add a little lube like on the other shoe supports.
Another common problem I see grooves in the backing plate and no lube. The shoes get stuck in the grooves.
I think it’s a combination different things…. One the anchor plate is way thicker than a lot of other ones, Two… the shoes are a little wide in that section. I think if I just trim the metal on the shoes and 45 the top of the support plate it should be fine. I pushed the shoes flat against the backing plate wear-strips, and 1 shoe clears by a mm, and it will clear better if I cut them a little bit, around that flat Plate!
Well, I’m at a loss. I trim the shoe around the anchor pin plate, a radius, the top of the anchor pin plate, so it was smooth. I also put a little bit of brake grease. I readjusted the brakes sanded the shoes, smooth again long shoes in the back and Soon as I went down the street It did it again. It got hung up on top of the anchor pin plate or something because it would grind, and then Pop spring sound returning. and I saw where it was grinding when I pulled the drums off. It’s like the self energizing action is making it twist and then its landing on top of the pin plate. Never had this issue before. I’m so disappointed but I think I’m gonna just take apart my 40 Ford brakes and clean them up and redo them cause I know they work. And the Buick drums fit on them as far as I remember when I tried it out.
It's the gap between the shoe centers and the weird little plate. They should almost be touching it. Otherwise the shoes can twist.
Put a washer between the anchor pin a and the plate to space it out is the next thing I was gonna try or….swap shoes from the other side to see if maybe the one shoe is twisted a little?
Are the rods that push the shoes out the right ones...are wheel cylinders correct...are the springs correct or to weak, I'm no brake specialist so I'll ask the dumb questions...
Yes.. It only moves up and down though About an 1/8 inch. It is at bottom now. Maybe I will try it up? It was in the middle when I installed them the first time
How is it… that I can build an entire car… but the little STUPID little shit, I can never figure out! God Is just laughing at me!! I know there is some lesson here?? First its the Tranny… rebuild the whole thing, and now it pops out of second gear… didn’t before… new gear now Brand new Brake Kits, and this weird Freak problem!!! The wife is absolutely at her limit with me obsessing about it. Ready to shoot me! But… I can’t let it go…..when Mr fix-it… Can’t Fix it!!! ARREGHHHHHHHHH! F$&$&$&k!!!!
Good chance there is a lesson there, somewhere! These things are frustrating, a friend was given a 2ft degree wheel for setting Cam's, with a note "ATTEN-SHUN to detail!" It hangs on his wall. Sometimes the details don't stand out until we are shown, I've headed off on tangents because I thought I knew, instead of paying attention to the details.... Hang in there, you'll sort it out!
Try this method of adjusting the anchor pin. When the everything is together; loosen the anchor pin nut just enough it can move, adjust the starwheel as tight as you can, tap on the anchor pin nut to just to make sure it moved, tighten the anchor pin down securely, back off the adjuster until the wheel turns with a light drag, and the shoes should be centered. I was tearing down some brake cores yesterday and I made note that the top of the shoes were not held tight by the shoe retainer, so guessing that may not be part of your problem. Looking at your pictures; the hold down springs do not look as compressed as I'm used to seeing. Is there a number on the head of the retainer pin? Usually #4 for 2" shoes; can't think of the number for 1-3/4 shoes right now. I think I would add a washer between the inside spring and shoe to tighten them up. Unusual problem; but should be curable.
Maybe I need to put the Spring facing up on the inside to straighten that Shoe alignment washer behind it? Yours seem like they’re straighter with the spring inside. maybe that’s why if you look at my picture that washers leaning at the top outwardly?