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Projects Tomcat’s Crazy '31 Model A Build Thread (2010-?)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tomcat11, Feb 16, 2023.

  1. Just now seeing this thread and catching up. Incredible skills and amazing save! Well done!
     
  2. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    Thanks for looking drdave , and thank you for the kind words.
     
    chryslerfan55 and drdave like this.
  3. Just finished reading this entire thread. Fantastic build!
     
    tomcat11 likes this.
  4. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    Wow. Thank you!
     
  5. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    Well before tackling the fuel tank I decided to re-visit the rear sheet metal. After adjusting the fit on the rear most heavy sub-rail and then bolting the tail light panel to it, I discovered the gap to the trunk lid was too large, probably 1/4"+. Seemed like it fit better before. Sometimes sheet metal can be really annoying!
    20230515_160331.jpg

    I made some optional 1/16" shims for the bottom.
    20230424_154559.jpg

    They are set back and not really noticeable from the outside. Who knows, maybe this stuff will fit better later:confused:
    20230515_161205.jpg

    On the inside of the tail light panel there's some backing plates where this panel ties into the quarters. I didn't like the weird crappy mismatched holes/slots and they did not match up well with the quarter panels either. Out they go.
    20230425_123830.jpg

    To get a good match to the factory holes in the quarters I partially welded some holes up then using a dremel bit was able to effectively move the holes.
    20230427_112514.jpg

    New backing plates fabricated with match drilled holes.
    20230428_115730.jpg

    Plug welded in place.
    20230428_135149.jpg

    The top edge radius on this piece needed to be trimmed for a better fit under the lip. Man, so many things I didn't notice before. :(
    20230427_112826.jpg

    I made the rear most floor section removable so that needed some holes.
    20230501_183649.jpg

    20230501_183610.jpg

    20230427_112417.jpg
     
  6. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    Unboxed the fuel tank and got a nice surprise. The box was not damaged and the tank was wrapped in a plastic bag. They obviously have no quality control or don't give a crap.
    20210920_140221.jpg

    20210920_140236.jpg

    Got the damage ironed out and pressure checked the tank. The weld seam is still good so I moved on to mock up.
    20210922_104510.jpg
     
    Stogy, metalhead140 and bchctybob like this.
  7. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    Well hell, it's been a while so here's an update on my crazy ass project. With a good idea of how much the fuel tank weighs full with 16 gallons of fuel in it, I needed to come up with a pretty solid way to mount it. In the event of an accident the forces involved would be fairly substantial.

    I wanted to strengthen the floor and spread the load out as much as possible. My thinking was to bridge the floor seams and tie the floor panel to the sub-rails as well as incorporate some re-enforcement for the seat belt mounts. I also wanted to minimize the number of weld joints and make the whole deal bolt in. Later I'll tie the rear bulkhead/firewall structure in as well. I'm still refining the design, but here's what I've done so far.

    Unfortunately, I started off with 16 ft. of bad material (1/8" x 1-1/2" flat bar) that I had to throw away.

    After a few 90 deg. test bends it was obvious this steel was junk.
    20230701_111204.jpg

    Using some poster board and some new steel I started wrapping my head around the concept.
    20230517_134718.jpg

    I set the filler neck in place and slid the tank back far enough to "hopefully" make it easy to fill. After finalizing the placement I had an angle for the rear strap mounts, so I made these from some rectangular tubing.
    20230518_125732.jpg

    A shot from the rear.
    20230517_134736.jpg

    After plotting out the curves and flat sections of the sub-rails I eventually got the end pieces bent on a crude fixture cobbled together. Of course each side was slightly different so it took some time to get a good fit.
    20230523_102010.jpg

    20230523_101934.jpg

    Bend fixture.
    20230522_114316.jpg

    Starting to look like something here.
    20230523_101723.jpg

    After fabricating the center seat belt re-enforcement plate it got clamped up for welding.
    20230526_125259.jpg

    Here's a detail shot of a weld prep. Every joint gets this on both sides for full penetration welds.
    20230526_125315.jpg

    After all the pilot holes were drilled and the final rear strap mount positions were figured the curved pieces were cut to length and radiused then tacked and welded.
    20230527_130503.jpg

    A little metal finishing on the bottom side.
    20230527_130450.jpg

    The next step was to match drill some holes, pop in some Cleco's, and drill holes in the sub-rails for the 3/8-16 threaded weld bungs. The outer seat belt holes will soon get 1/2-20 threaded weld bungs. Everything else 5/16-18. I'll be able to install bolts and washers from the bottom side to further beef up the tank and belt mounts.
    20230605_084559.jpg

    Here it is prior to match drilling the rest of floor panel holes.
    20230602_103451.jpg

    I ended up shortening the tank support pieces to allow room for the rear bulkhead/firewall attachment and then added a couple more pieces directly under the tank supports that contour the floor. These will get some vertical gussets as well. The tank strap details are up next but it's a 100 deg. here and I need a beer! :D 20230611_110720.jpg
     
    SS327, chryslerfan55, Stogy and 8 others like this.
  8. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    So here's my version of the fuel tank straps. I started with the Tank's Inc. SST straps kit and some 2" wide x 1/16" thick Neoprene strip. Then, after looking at some big truck tanks for ideas, I went looking for some T-bolts. Ended up finding some rated 3/8" T-bolts and the 3/16" SST rivets at McMaster-Carr.

    The straps come flat with one end folded over and punched with a bolt hole. So, starting at that end, I drilled my support frame for the 3/8" bolts then slowly formed the bends over the Neoprene strips.
    20230615_135557.jpg

    Next, I made a template to figure out the slot and rivet placement for T-bolt ends.
    20230701_111108.jpg

    Using the template as a mock up gave me a pretty good idea of where to cut the straps.
    20230615_125640.jpg

    Being a bit nervous and not wanting to screw this up, I decided to make a test piece out of the excess strap material. This would also let me try out the rivet installation. After figuring the bend line (2-1/2"), and convincing myself I could pull this off, I transferred the pattern to the straps.
    20230620_114329.jpg

    I only drilled one side for the rivets and cut the slots. I figured now was a good time to polish this area.
    20230621_142433.jpg

    Here's a shot after bending the loop and some more polishing.
    20230628_143931.jpg

    After clamping the test piece and match drilling the holes I tried a couple rivets with my trusty long barrel air hammer. The bit kept slipping off the rivets and I damaged the test piece. To prevent this from happening on the real parts I made this gizmo.
    20230703_104630.jpg

    20230629_104747.jpg

    After polishing up the rivets I went for it. This was quite tricky as things were shaking like hell and moving all over the place.
    20230630_095514.jpg

    After trimming the Neoprene I did a final fit check before welding the T-bolt mounts. Like everything on this project, it took a lot of work and patience, but I got it done and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
    20230701_090316.jpg

    Detail shot of the front side.
    20230701_090903.jpg

    20230701_090549.jpg

    Now I can move on to the rear bulkhead/firewall and seat belt mounts. Happy 4th of July everybody!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 3, 2023
    Chucky, rod1, Outback and 16 others like this.
  9. Outstanding work TomCat, as usual your work is flawless.
     
    Stogy and X38 like this.
  10. metalhead140
    Joined: Sep 22, 2012
    Posts: 63

    metalhead140
    Member

  11. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    Thanks man. I have to admit I've had my fair share of mistakes and redo's . More than I expected for sure. Lots of trial and error to get this far but I guess that's all part of the deal.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2023
    Stogy likes this.
  12. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    Thank you sir. I'm eating this elephant one bite at a time!
     
    pprather and Stogy like this.
  13. 34 5W Paul
    Joined: Mar 27, 2020
    Posts: 353

    34 5W Paul
    Member
    from Fresno CA

    @tomcat11 hoping you've made some progress and looking forward to an update. Cheers!
     
  14. Great work so far. Keep the updates coming.
     
  15. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    @34 5W Paul & @Hot Rod Ron thanks for your interest. I have made some progress but it's been slow going. Originally, I had intentions of making this a street/strip car.

    A while back I had the seat installed and was deciding on whether or not to put a roll bar in it. This would make mounting the seat belts a lot easier and would add some roll over protection, but it could also create a hazard on the street. Well, after strapping on one of my old racing helmet's, I sat in the car and found I had only about an inch of head room.

    To get a proper legal (and safe) roll bar in there I would have to start over with some bucket seats that had a lower seating position and ditch a lot of the work I've already done on the seat, the seat mounts, and the steering wheel position. Not to mention more $$$!

    Since the car would be mostly street driven I decided against a roll bar but, still needed a way to mount the belts. I absolutely hate modern retractable seat belts. Do they work? Sure. But in a Hot Rod they don't look like they belong and you still have to mount them. You start to see the dilemma here especially working with this tiny ass car.

    Well that's enough blabber. I'll post some pictures of what I came up with. It is still a work in progress and has become a bit complicated.
     
    loudbang, 34 5W Paul and SS327 like this.
  16. nrgwizard
    Joined: Aug 18, 2006
    Posts: 2,791

    nrgwizard
    Member
    from Minn. uSA

    Thank you for posting & describing, the construction details. Learned a few things. :D .
    Marcus...
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2024
    tomcat11 likes this.
  17. Bugguts
    Joined: Aug 13, 2011
    Posts: 935

    Bugguts
    Member

    Just read through the whole thread again. Excellent fab work. Lots of good ideas for mine.
    Thanks for sharing all you are doing. Very inspirational.
     
  18. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    @nrgwizard & @Bugguts thanks for the kind words guy's. Long way to go yet, stay tuned...
     
  19. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    Well it's time for a long overdue update. I have been working on this rear Bulkhead/Firewall for months and months and it's probably the most ridiculous thing I have ever fabricated. It may look like overkill to some but I had three main objectives in mind 1) Seal off the trunk area which will house the fuel tank and battery, 2) Make it removable and bolt in, 3) Make it strong enough to mount the seat belt shoulder harnesses.

    20230504_150330.jpg

    The previous "builder" welded a piece of 1" x 1/8" wall tubing below the rear window. The body around the window opening is welded to that tube so rather than run into issues removing it I left it in place. Had the original wood been in place I would have done this differently.

    Vertical tubes with flanges at top bolted with 5/16-18 Gr.8. Bottom bolted using 5/16-18 Gr.8 in double shear.
    20230822_080550.jpg

    Holley float bowl fitting gaskets which are .020" thick were used to space out the bottom tabs to allow for paint and ease of assembly. The tabs will be just tacked because I'm sure this stuff is going to move around after welding.
    20230822_080435.jpg

    Added some gussets to the top flanges.
    20230928_125455.jpg

    Center structure pieces fabricated from 1" x 1/8" wall square tubing and tacked in place. Behind it you can see the piece of flat bar that will also tie it to the body. Sorry for the blurry photo.
    20231003_094155.jpg

    Here's a shot from the rear showing the re-enforcement plate that will sandwich the double layered body material using ten more 5/16-18 Gr. 8 bolts. This tucks in nicely below the lip and is hidden with the deck lid on.
    20231003_094136.jpg

    Made a long scribe tool to mark a reference plane on the body.
    20230822_080800.jpg

    20230822_080816.jpg

    Since this will be a three piece bolt together bulkhead, I started making parts for the two outer sections.
    20231011_095642.jpg

    Here they are bolted to the main structure. Also added pieces to the top for a mounting point and sheet metal support.
    20231114_100414.jpg

    Curved end and vertical pieces added.
    20231117_093908.jpg

    Main structure set up for welding.
    20240402_130400.jpg

    Made the harness mounts from 3/16" plate.
    20240411_130934.jpg

    Half sections of 1" x 1/8" wall round tube were welded onto the back side of the square tube to provide a radius for the belts to ride on, They are positioned 4" below shoulder height. Same as you would have on a proper roll bar.
    20240419_154617.jpg

    Harness mounts welded in.
    20240424_153423.jpg

    20240426_094750.jpg

    Belts mocked up with Schroth Racing pivot bushings.
    20240426_094805.jpg

    Tabs for Sheet Metal mounting.
    20240511_074844.jpg

    Strips and Tabs welded to main structure.
    20240523_112415.jpg

    Passenger side end piece with mounting tabs welded.
    20240529_110005.jpg

    Bottom tabs welded to the
    fuel tank base.
    20240523_112654.jpg

    Outer frame attachment points to stock Model A body.
    20240529_100101.jpg

    20240529_100157.jpg

    20240529_100020.jpg

    Main structure rear mounting.
    20240529_202240.jpg

    Here's the whole enchilada assembled. 75 pieces in all. I think it will be strong enough. Hopefully I will never get the chance to find out! 20240529_095800.jpg

    From the back.
    20240529_095853.jpg

    Next up is fabricating the Aluminum panels. Two pieces of 5052 H32, 28" x 28" x .050" thick cost me
    just over $200.00! Crazy prices on material these days, Yikes!
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2024
  20. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,830

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    Lots of thought has gone into that bulkhead! I can see where the time has gone!
     
  21. Perfection always takes longer than we expect but the results are indeed perfect. Well done, amazing detail.
     
  22. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,231

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Holy cow. I think that should be strong enough even if by some freak event your gas tank is turned into an 800 pound gorilla!
    Nice work!
     
    AmishMike and 05snopro440 like this.
  23. 05snopro440
    Joined: Mar 15, 2011
    Posts: 2,112

    05snopro440
    Member

    That sounds like inspiration for an art piece :cool:
     
    Tim likes this.
  24. Great work...and nice to see this thread again!
     
  25. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    Thanks all, hopefully the progress will come a little quicker from here on out.
     
  26. sdluck
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 3,289

    sdluck
    Member

  27. There is no kill like overkill.
     
  28. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    It is recommended that each anchor point withstand a minimum load of 15 kN. That's 3,372 lbf.:eek:Physics is a funny thing, until it's not.
     
    05snopro440 likes this.
  29. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    Tack welded some flange nuts on the floor crossmember for easy assembly.
    20240601_160241.jpg

    Started the rear bulkhead sheet metal yesterday.
    20240601_151659.jpg

    Today I drilled and tapped 10-32's and screwed it on.
    20240601_155452.jpg

    From the back. Still has protective plastic so scratches just peal right off!
    20240601_155649.jpg

    Started making patterns for the outside panels. Gotta eat some more cereal now so I have enough card board.:D
    20240104_112210.jpg
     
    rod1 and loudbang like this.
  30. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    Switched gears to the outer seat belt anchors. Holes in the sub-rail walls (top & bottom) for the weld bungs were drilled and opened up with a die grinder and Dremel.
    20240604_131138.jpg

    The 3/4" O.D. bushings were opened up to 7/16" I.D. but were about .050" too long.
    20240604_131122.jpg

    I put them on my high dollar lathe and machined them down.
    20240604_131456.jpg

    Since they were already machined it worked quite well and was very precise.
    20240604_131222.jpg

    20240604_132026.jpg

    90 degrees here today so welding these in the moring. Stay tuned, more metal madness to come.....
     

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