One thing I didn’t see mentioned, debur the line before flaring or you will have a burr in the seat area. I too believe the flare is wrong though and yes there are 37 degree flares for AN fittings.
In both of these pics it looks like the adapters are leaking and NOT the lines. The adapters DO need to be coated with sealant IF they're pipe thread (which they look like they are). The dry sealant they put on the fittings when you buy the kit sometimes isn't enough or plain doesn't work. I would use this (they sell it in a small tube also) on all pipe thread fittings: Also look at my other post on this thread for products that have at least one side that doesn't need an adapter. Also the block listed above if you must use a hydraulic brake light switch, I prefer not to.
I use steel lines from my local napa that way I usually have 1/2 the number of double flairs to make up. My flair tool isn’t a Uber fancy one. Cut tube square, deburr id and I usually put a dab of 3 in 1 oil on the die, back of die and a bit on the threads of the flair tool. 95% successful results. And the 5 is usually error on tightening. I also buy my fittings either from napa or my local hydraulic hose shop.
I also use Napa steel lines. Buy them longer, cuts the flaring by half. I'm not a fan of the copper-ish lines.
This is good advice, I was taught the same technique. If a new line leaks I do this a few times progressively a little tighter each time, first thing. K.I.S.S. Then if a leak persists, pull it apart and inspect the flair.
Look at the tee configuration is it fip (female iron pipe) all around and not flair x fip x flair. If you thread a flair x pipe thread adapter into a female flair fitting it will leak.
That tee with the brake light switch looks like the run through where you have 1/8 pipe to 3/16 tube adapters on both sides shouldn't be there. If you look inside the tee on the run there should be a seat where the flair should sit on both sides and not 1/8 pipe. therefore the flair nut would be threaded directly into in the tee both sides. JMO
ok thanks again for the suggestions. i will switch to a pedal brake light switch thats a great idea. i've attached a shot of a couple of my flairs. how do they look? could also be cheap line i guess. i'm gonna try and get some from my local parts dealer and start over. i'll try the method of leaving the final crush when i put the line together. thanks
Never. The threads are not part of the sealing. Only the flare and cone are. Putting Teflon tape on bolt threads might cause them to loosen.
It may be the camera angle, but that flair does not look straight. It happens if you cut the line at an angle or it isn't in the flair tool correctly. I could just be seeing things.
hey thanks for the suggestions. i'm gonna switch to the pedal brake light switch. i also think i will bend new lines using new line from the local parts dealer. i'm attaching a pic of my flairs. do they look ok? please let me know if you folks have any other suggestions. thanks
ok just saw the other reply didn't realize the other message posted. thanks. i'm starting over and will keep you folks posted
I had a similar problem with some copper nickel brake line I bought. I used it to run all the brake lines on my Model A. I used my trusty old Snap-On double flair tool and for the first time had leaks at fittings. I think the line is a bit on the hard side. Tightening each leaking fitting really tight with flare wrenches eventually solved my problems. However, I had to tighten some fittings multiple times. That was about 4 years ago and I don't have any leaks. I never had problems with the old steel brake lines.
Look at the flares with a magnifying glass. That pseudo copper tube could be cracking after work hardening during the double flaring operation . FWIW , we were always taught never to use sealer / dope of any sort on brake line fittings ( or fuel line fittings) . maybe the rules have changed in nearly 70 years ?
On steel lines (not sure if this applies to nicop) you cut them with a cut off wheel or hacksaw....DON'T use a tubing cutter as it work hardens the end. I use the pointed tube cleaner end to debur the inside of the tube and then use a file to clean/chamfer the outside end. This will help to keep the flare from splitting when you hit it with the second die to push it in. It was very unpopular on here but, I bought a bulk of fuel and brake line that was copper coated steel for cheap.
You can tell people aren't reading the all the posts or reading A full post before commenting. Problem is that it does muddy up the thread.
Beats my way of cut, deburr, bevel, flare.....realize I forgot the nut, swear, then start off again at cut.
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