Thanks for the tip! I am in the process of building a down-draft paint booth and do need several 16" diameter hose clamps for the ducting/filtration. That will work and not a bad price either.
You probably already have enough smaller diameter clamps to open up and string together into one bigger diameter clamp if the worm gears are the same pitch.
Sometime back, a friend was using these from the Porsche dealer. Instead of slots to drive the screw, they are pressed like a closed louver. Very high quality.
If you have to buy clamps anyhow why not spend a little extra time finding more period clamps. If they're close to the same price as new ones, built better then new ones and only takes more of your time to look for them....I say why not? Here's what I found a few years ago, a little more then new, but WAAAY better and it was cheaper to buy in bulk.
When I worked at the Cadiallac dealer and we removed tower clamps it was a simple thing to get them off. Put a nut driver on the screw and back it way off. Then with the nut driver still on the head give it a tap with your hammer and it drove the screw down and opened up the clamping band. Easy peasy. Of course we still tossed them and replaced them with worm clamps.
Always liked these on fuel lines.. Dont damage fuel lines, will not lose torque. I use spiral clamps on rad hoses, but they tend to hard on hoses with small dia.
^^^^I'm sorry, I hate those clamps so much, at work when I have to remove them from a crazy barely accessible spot I call them ass hole clamps. Throw them away and install worm clamps. They suck! ^^^^^^
you can find those types. Scandvik seems to be pretty good. https://www.scandvik.com/index.cfm?method=products_detail&productID=297 amazon sells them as well Also on Mcmaster. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/h...s-with-smooth-bands-for-soft-hose-and-tube-8/
These work, and I am sure have been around for a while... at a certain point the obsession for perceived "period correctness" becomes ludicrous.
Maybe while still under warranty in the 60s, but when they are installed for a long time, they tend to stick and not release. They also tend not to expand enough to smoothly slide off, even with the nut backed way off. The manufacturers also tend to make stuff just barely strong enough (or under) to survive operation, not servicing. A bung on the engine would stand up to that tap, but the heater core would often bend, and forget about the PS stuff and plastic ( ) fittings! Those aren't pre-65, so having period clamps on period parts may work, but they still suck!
Spring clamps do suck to get off when they're not positioned right. Also they must be put on in the same spot if reusing the hose or the chance of leaking is higher. I shouldn't have used the word "period" as much as I should have used "old". That being said I can tell you I paid less per clamp then the T bolt style clamps and I enjoy looking at the box. The whole period correctness of it is lost on most regular people and I never show my cars...so it's moot point. I'm just doing what I like for as long as I can.
Deep breaths, Mikey!!! Hahaha. Got a link, X38? Or just Amazon? Personally, I like the look of older clamps or a higher quality clamp. Cheap-o clamps stick out on hot rod with no hood/hood sides. I'm not saying date-coded (though I respect the effort/detail) but if you're going to put time and attention into making the engine look good, why not continue with clamps?
I ordered them through a local industrial supply. I think they're made in Germany so I'm sure they would have distribution over there too. I sought these out because of all the brands of similar design clamps I have on hand I like these the best, just didn't have any of the sizes I needed. As is typical.
I buy those on Fleabay in bags of 100 of the small lower image you posted for 3/8" lines. And I buy bags of 10 of the larger wire type for 1.75"-2" there also. I love both of these style, whether they're period or not.
I've got a kit like this that my dad bought in the early 60s a real PIA to use. https://www.dellortoshop.com/contents/en-us/p1689_Endless_Band_Hose_Clamp_with_Buckle_5_mm_wide.html
The Norma brand screw drive hose clamp looks exactly like the Bimmer stuff. 6mm drive nut, large flange behind the nut, formed threads. Numerous subtle details including a slight chamfer on the edges of the band to keep from digging into the hose. These are quality pieces that hold up over decades and hundreds of thousands of miles.
OK. I'll join in the clamp party. My question is what is the correct orientation of the clamp? Using the worm style as a example, screw at 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock? 9 o'clock? After all the threads on clocking screws and anything else that can be clocked by those far more detail orientated than I there must be a clear cut answer.
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