1952 Mercury power window relay information needed. Does anyone have a diagram of what happens inside of the regulator/ relay?
Those are a little more complicated than a normal relay, as the window motors are 4 wires iirc. The relays also change the direction of the window motor.
Exactly and why Im trying to sort out what they are doing inside. Would rather just make it so asingle momentary switch can be used for up and down.
You need a wiring diagram. It looks like it has 2 terminals for the field coils and 2 for the comutator. Direction is reversed by changing the polarity of the field coils.
You can work back from the general diagram. If you have a diagram post it up and we can figure it out. I not familiar with the Lincoln system but on other period 4 wire motors it uses a 2 pole changeover relay. You can achieve the same by using two single pole relays to change the polarity of the field coils.
What do you actually have? The OEMs generally used two type of window motors. Most use a two-wire motor and the reversing switching is done inside the switch which is a two-pole double throw. But some used a single pole double throw switch and a three wire motor (common, and up/down wires). I don't recall seeing any that used relays, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. To use a single pole double throw switch with a two-wire motor you'll need two relays per motor. Here's the wiring diagram.... For clarity I've separated this into the control circuit and the power circuit. If you have a four wire motor I'd have to assume it's a up/down pair in which case just use the switch to power one side of the pair to get the right function and ground the other wire. If it's sketchy that the switch can handle the current, use the relays but don't connect the grounds to them, simply take them to ground. I'd do some experimentation to determine what wire(s) do what. Motors have a high inrush current, so the switch should be rated for at least 300% of the running current for good contact life. This help?
So from the diagram it looks like there may be 3 circuits. 2 for field coils and one to the comutator. Green and pink are the switchable field coil polarity. Green is the comutator. Green and yellow from the switch ground the relay coils. Orange i am assuming is the 6V power To emulate this you would need 3 single pole changeover relays. Switch to green position grounds pin 2 and switches the relay and puts power on pin 4 and pin 5 Switch to yellow position grounds pin 1 and switches the relay putting power on to 4 and pin 6
The problem with this type of diagram is that it doesn't show what's going on inside the motor or relay. I think @'29 Gizmo has it at least partially right but some checking on your part should be done to confirm this. I'm assuming you asked this question because of issues with the OEM parts. You've got an OEM special proprietary relay that's no doubt long discontinued with no modern analog. And it appears that the motor is a semi-series-wound design, not the permanent-magnet type that the OEMs switched to later to simplify the wiring. This you can check. I'll bet that the black and red wires are to power the armature, with the other two being the field windings. These two would be the ones you want to switch polarity on to change rotation. If you check these with a meter with the motor fully disconnected from the relay, the red/black should read to each other and the yellow/green should do the same. Neither pair should read to the other pair. You can check motor operation by connecting the red to the green and the black to the yellow and applying power to the two connections. The motor should run. Reverse the yellow/green connections and it should run the other direction. If that's what you find, then it's just a matter of using the diagram I posted to control the field windings, not the armature. But you do need to switch the armature power at the same time, but simply on or off. You have three possible options for doing this. One, add another single relay to control the motor power and connect the relay coil to each up/down control wire. You will need to install a diode at each place where you connect to the switch to prevent backfeed. I'll note here that you should convert the 'ground' wire shown at the switch into a 'power' wire for each option. Option two is use two relays controlled separately by the up/down function at the switch in parallel to power the armature, that eliminates the need for diodes. This would probably be my choice. The last choice is possibly using ice cube relays as these are available in multiple-pole configuration. Two 2 or 3 pole double throw relays would eliminate the need for more relays, but the issue here is you won't find any rated for more than 10 amps. Because of the inrush current, if the running current under load is more than 5 amps, these won't last long. This help?
I have the same 4 wire window motor in my 52 capri and want to switch to the new Bosch style relays and wonder if anyone has gotten to the bottom of this and has a diagram figured out yet? This is probably not the 1st time this has come up as the old relays are getting hard to find. thanks
You know I think you could use two dual contact relays and a circuit breaker to replace this special relay. The wiring would be a bit tricky, but it could be done.
Not sure how to go about it as wiring is my weakest link. I will try to pass this info on to a friend to ponder. Thanks
@Spruce2 , @Busted Knuckles , Crazy Steve, above asked about the window lift motor, how many wire, etc. Can you help him?
Our 1952 lincoln/mercury rear quarter window motors are 6 volt positive ground with 4 wires coming out of the motor which we are trying to convert to modern bosch style 6 volt relays. 12 volt and 2 wire would be the norm these days but who wants easy.
Yep. You need 3 changeover relays to do the same job. One to power the comutator and two to change the polarity of the field coils. Not that complicated to do realy.
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