Hot Rods Halibrand 201 ***UPDATED****

Does anyone have blueprints for a Halibrand 201 quick-change case? I made a deal on a NOS case that has never been machined for the axle bells, inside bearings, and shafts. Trying to find a machinist who can machine it as well has been a challenge. I ordered all new internal from Hot Rod Works, so I have everything to measure out correctly, including 36 Ford axle bells.

 

@GearheadsQCE , please pick up the white courtesy telephone.

 

Here I am!

I know a guy that has a couple of similar cases, not 'Real Halibrand'. He might do it along with his at some point. I'll see him tonight and report back.

This could probably be done on a Bridgeport, but would be a lot easier on a multi axis machine. Everything has to be located off the pinion bore, while keeping it on center with the axle centerline.

It's all about set up time. I'm sure with enough money thrown at it someone will take it on. Not me though. I am scaling back. Need time to build my own hot rods.

 

GearheadQCE that would be great if I could get my case in with his at the same time. Or if you or someone has blueprints too, I might be able to shop it around here in the local machines, and having blueprints would be a big help. Much rather go in on your friend who has other cases that need to be done.

 

Here is some pics of what I need to have machined.

 

This is multi-axis machine work.

My shop, and every shop we deal with charges by the hour for the programming, the setup, and the spindle time.

That will add up quickly.

 

Theres probably a good reason that that casting never made it to the machineshop after getting that close. I'd consider getting an xray of it before send it out.

 

Wouldn't hurt, could also have been a casting rejected due to minor porosity, I'm guessing Ted had some strict quality control mandates, may also have been a "back door" casting from the foundry.
In the mid 70's I acquired a never machined Enderle injector hat from a local "river rat", don't know the back story but I put it to use.

 

My friend got a unmachined Halibrand 101. He borrowed mine for reference and had a bout 25 hours in machining. Afterwards he told me I could of bought one cheaper than this.

 

I understand the nostalgia factor and you might have unlimited funds. It might be easier to buy a new Rodsville if they still make them or check with frames on here, he has from time to time had good used or NOS 201's. Maybe sell what you have?

 

Thank you all for the comments so far. I don't want to give up on this case yet. Does anyone have blueprints that I could get a copy of? @krylon32 I am curious to know who frames in on here. @51 mercules, does your friend have the machining references still, or did he do all the machining manually, like on a bridgeport project?

 

While not a "machinist" per se, @B*** seems like the right guy for this.

 

Frames is the HAMB name for a contributor on here who has a lot of QC knowledge and seems to have a lot of QC's and parts.

 

From a machinist's view, prints would save a lot of reverse engineering and as had been said, time and tooling would add up quickly if not already equipped.
Also you would need to check all points of the casting to make sure it isnt a reject and find out later, after $$$$ invested that you just cant get there from here. (The first cut is the most important)

When there is only one to work with, that makes things even more time consuming which equals more $$$$$.
If there were more (5/6/7)that would help, but time into jigs would be increased for repeatability.
You could do that with simpler set ups, but that would tie up a CNC(wouldnt try it in a Bridgeport)
for quite some time.
I have done many one off things like this for the industrial side of things. And when a business needs stuff to keep running some times money is no object.

Would I like to do something like this?
Oh heck yea!
I will be following. Good luck with the project.
If there is any pointers I can give on the machining side feel free to PM me.

 

All the machining was done manually using my Halibarand 101 model a quick change.

 

I'd check with the folks at Pacific Quick Change (former Kiwi) in AU and see if they would be able to machine it for you. Of course, you'd need to ship it back and forth across an ocean, but it may wind up being cheaper than having someone locally do it.

https://www.pacificquickchange.com.au/

 

I will keep this thead going as I get more progess done on it. If you change your mind and want the challenge, let me know.

If your friend wants to do this one and use your case again let me know.

I sent them an email after looking at their fantastic website.

 

Just for your info, a 101 is different to a 201, and a 301 different again.
Brian B*** was very helpful for me with my 201, as was Bruce. I did ask for blueprints before on here to help sort out my 201, but no one seemed to have any.
I’m pretty sure Rodsville are no longer making their QC’s.
My post for blue prints
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/halibrand-201-blue-prints.1286266/
Good luck

 

Thank you for the link on your center section thread. Those are two more measurements that I needed. I have found a donor 201 case broken in half that we can use for all the measurements, and I have found a machine willing to take on the challenge. I will post progress as it happens.

 

Measure six times cut once!

 

Exactly.

 

A minor update with big results. I was able to connect with an Instagram friend who had crashed 201 case that I was able to get from him so we can have something to measure with now. Next step is to find a machinist who can do it.

 

Good reverse engineering project.
Debur and hone surfaces flat.
Pick the flatest largest surface you can and use that for ALL the reference dimensions and preferably ZERO for machining.
I find it helpful to take pics and draw the dimensions you come up with on them.
Easier than making prints.
You have to get creative to measure up.
Make sure to have bearings and other parts that have to 'fit', so you can use those for bore sizes and what not.

 

Note: the case in your pic is a 101 case, not a 201. Measurements are different.

 

@alchemy,
You absolutely correct! If the OP uses these dimensions he will wind up with an expensive pile of s****.

The important thing is to have the centerlines of differential and the pinion intersect at the center of the opening. The pinion and lower shaft must be parallel and centered side to side in the case.

Everything else can be reverse engineered. An original banjo center can be used for this.

An upgrade to the original Halibrand design is to bore the pinion hole to fit the double race Timken tapered roller bearing. (Rodsville does this).

Send me the center and $3,000 and I'll do it!

 

I will do it for $2999.98.

 

201 over a 101:



Note the difference where the input seal holder and yoke go. The 201 protrudes, while the 101 barely does.

 

I think 201's have the webbing and pinion support inside, where the 101 clearly doesn't. Hope you didn't pay too much for a junk 101

 

Pretty sure the width of the body is a different measurement, and probably quite a few others too. Not to mention the pinion has no nose support at all on the 101.

 

The bolt pattern for the trumpets is different. That means you have to use Model A axle housings.