I just picked up a set of Hedman long tube headers for a Chevy 250 I'm building for a '65 pickup. They have the cheap non-heat resistant factory paint on them that's really only intended to keep them from rusting before installation. What's going to be the most efficient way of removing this paint so I can repaint them with something more appropriate? I'm only installing these things in the truck once, so running them on the engine to burn it off then removing them to re-paint isn't really an option.
Agree. If you plan on doing it yourself and no blaster available, sand paper and hand cramps on your future. If it weren’t for the mess, I suggest paint stripper.
The other thought, call the manufacturer, could be they use something that doesn’t need to be stripped, just sanded and painted.
Years ago I bought some new Hedman Hedders, and they said right in the instructions that you need to remove the paint and apply some high heat paint. So that though probably won't fly. Sandblasting is what's needed, have fun. Powder coating places do it.
And after you paint them or have them coated, run the engine just for around 30 seconds and them them cool. Repeat several times to bake the paint or coating in before running continuously.
ok, I'd like to see it work.... (yes, I've sandblasted headers, and yes, I've used wire brushes in a drill, and I can't imagine the latter taking the place of the former)
You can buy one of those cheap sand blasting guns that have a hopper on top for about $15. It will get the paint off in all the tight places as well as the rest of the tubes. Get a plastic tarp to catch the media so you can reuse it and do it outside. Wear gloves when handling the headers so you don't leave oil on them before painting.............OR take them to a local powder coater and have them sandblast and Ceracote them for you. The Hopper Guns do a pretty good job, especially in tight spots.
Put em on start it up and retard the timing a few degrees. When they glow, shut it off wipe them down with thinner and paint.
BBQ grille. close lid, an hour at 450 degrees or until well done. Brush to finish, pair with a nice Napa Cab, Heitz, Martha's Vineyard 2014.
@Southtowns27 Hello, We have used plenty of ways to get paint off of metal surfaces and non metal surfaces. From paint removers of all kinds from the hardware store. They all did the best job, but they were messy. A glove and throwaway paint brush were the items that bit the dust. But, it was so messy, it was not worth it at the time. apply, wait for the bubbling, scrape and then clean up the scrapings and still have to clean the surface with clear lacquer thinner to get a smooth surface. Then finally a nice smooth wet/dry sand paper job. All that is a lot of work, gooey stuff and sometimes fumes from whatever you use. The sandblasting is the easiest, simple way to get stuff clean. We needed the old frame clean for a couple of coats of spray paint. We did not have the facilities to take the body off, so, we had the frame sand blasted on the car. It was primered paint anyway and no over spray damaged the car surface. But the frame was very clean and easy to spray on black paint for a no rust paint application. What metal floor pan area got sand blasted got the red primer paint to match the body color. But, the frame paint was a normal black we used to paint a lot of things. Jnaki If you like getting messy, spend time in a smelly environment, then do the scraping method from any paint stripper. The stronger, the faster it works and the sooner you will be finished. But, even after using paint stripper, you still have to clean it with something like lacquer thinner to get it ready for paint. Sandblasting or more friendly environmental commercial spray companies may have their own solutions. But for the time and bother, sandblasting allows you to get it done fast and no clean up afterwards. Just wipe, clean and spray the color you want. similar motor to our set up for our 1940 Willys coupe We used sand paper for our Hedman Hedders as they were primered from the factory. Then we sprayed heat resistant paint that was popular at the time. They never showed any burn out or discoloration even from a 671 292 c.i. SBC blower spec motor between races or timed runs. 1960 Spring and Summer
I've always taken new headers to a sandblasting place and had them blasted. Usually only about $30-$40 for a pair, and they often did it while I waited, or while I went and had lunch. Money well spent as a blaster gets into places I couldn't, no matter what I tried.
Sand/bead blast is best, but if you can’t do that…. Like Jimmie six said, lacquer thinner. Use a stiff brush around the tube-to-flange areas and between the tubes at the collector. That paint comes off easily because they do no prep. Scuff them with a Scotchbrite pad, wipe them with lacquer thinner again and paint ‘em. Heat cycle them like 57chevymadman said or heat them with a torch from the inside until they smoke. It’s not going to last forever but depending on the color, (black is best) they should look good for a couple years.
this works real well ^^^^. I usually just wipe them with MEK and whatever does not come off gets buried when I shoot them. that said sand or media blasting them ( as @37 caddy suggested) is the best way to prep them for paint. It cleans them and gives them good tooth for the paint to stick to.
The Jalopy Journal
