rebuilding after the crash

Sounds like a George Carlin line ( RIP).

 

My favorite!

 

I like this whole thread lots! Gary

 

The intake got one more pass just barely touching the original deck. I just wanted to remove the weld. The inside of the port had the welded area removed with a rotary file.
The heads were assembled with a installed height of 2.040 giving a seat pressure of 450#.
The locks are special. They have two raised areas. One holds the valve. The other grips the lash cap. When installed correctly the cap can rotate. These big diameter caps give the roller more surface area. They need it with big cams as the roller moves back and forth as the valve opens and closes. The also keep the cap from flying off the valve. Loosing a cap would ruin tge valve tip. There's alot of violence going on.
The block was heated up and the sleeves pulled. .004 was taken off the deck. When there was water in the block a smooth deck was needed. Now I need the sleeves up off the deck. The head and gasket are clamped on the sleeves not the deck. The corners of the block where the oil return holes are get a little rtv to prevent leaks.
The rocker stands take bigger dowels. The stands needed to be indicated and opened up to 3/8. The smaller ones can be sheared off. If they shear the whole rocker shaft will start flopping around. Nothing good comes from that.
The lower row of head studs were enlarged from 1/2- 9/16. Each hole was indicated. A reamer was used to provide a .300 deep relief below deck for the stud shoulder. Then the hole was drilled and tapped. A bottoming tap finished it up. The mill was used during the tapping process to make sure it tapped straight. The bigger stud is needed to prevent threads from being pulled. On a cast block I'm limited to 130 lbs. A billet block can handle 160 lbs.
All of these jobs this weekend are all for more power this year. We are at that point were the engine really needs to be treated like a big nitro engine to live.

 

Interesting, detailed information. Thanks Brian.

 

Now that you are stepping up power & your program,
Being a cast & wet block ,
Would you benefit to fill the block ,
I know wants done its not usable in future except really flowing coolant through a set of wet head's,
But the block would be more stable from flex, for more Can tipping & boost in your plains.

A shell cutter would do a nicer cut,
I allso know if you had/ excess to would have been used .

 

The power is in the sleeves. I have very thick sleeves. They don't distort. They are supported 360 without windows between them. It's a true dry sleeve block. Filling it would only add weight.
I'm not sure what you mean by a shell cutter.

 

shell mill has multiple inserts ,so little smoother finish-not sure that is a benefit here though

 

Cutting sleeves now. With the hoops they need to be .020 deep and .065-.070 wide. A custom fixture was made. It hold the sleeve in place and additional sleeves drop right on. It saves alot of time not having to index each one.

 

someone said it's the off season. I guess I didn't get the memo. There is alot of work going on this weekend.

 

If you talking about the surfacer it has 24 cutters on it. It moves very slow over the deck providing the correct finish.

 

Off season Is usually just for the driver,
Not the behind the seen crew /team.

Just a few Mill shell cutters ,

 

Those won't work. We are cutting a groove in the sleeve.

 

For surfacing the deck the wheel is the size of a large pizza. One pass covers the whole deck. In a mill it would take multiple passes.

 

Mill Shell cutter
""" Not to Cut the Groove in Sleeve """"
But Sleeve Groove , with a small Shell cutter could be used with a Index vice / wheel , to cut.
Or chuck up in a lathe , ( better choice) cut the Groove in Sleeve ,,
Thinking & giving lead way That you do not have Tool or Lathe maybe big enough to cut sleeve .

This is most of time the case
Tooling expensive or machines not big enough when you're not a full Machines Shop ,

Mill shell cuter to Cut the Intake where the O ring was Tig welded , a better choice then Fly cutter , But you use what you have some times,

One time I needed to cut valve relief in a set of pistons, on a Assembled short block, So I brazed a lathe turning tool to a Old Valve to cut pistons, slid Valve threw head in stalled head with few bolts , cut pistons to necessary death /clearance Fly cut .

 

It's alot faster and accurate on the mill. The sleeve can spin out of round if it's not chucked up right. A indicator is needed. With the mill the fixture is secure. It's easy to repeat the process many times. To cut the inner and outer part of the groove it takes about ten minutes. The tool holder is easily adjusted to extend the cutter.

 

Seeing that I was in the area I stopped by a fellow nitro racers shop for a few drums. It never hurts to have a few on hand.

 

Have you got a pic of the valve stem where the retainer and cap sit? I’ve not seen those before.

 

Chinese NITRO, what's wrong with this picture?

 

After the Oklahoma bombing domestic nitro producers stopped selling it for racing. I don't like it.it smells different.

 

Sleeves are going in. It takes alot of heat to get them to slide in easy. After it cools a little the sleeves are set with a sleeve driver.
The sleeves were kept in order. That doesn't guarantee they will go back exactly the same. It turns out six are perfect. One is .005 high the other .010 low. The low one will get gmc diesel shims. The high one sanded with a plate. It's all about checking and re checking.

 

Pretty soon all you’ll need to do is umm, start it up. Hehe.

 

Waiting on new rods. Four weeks out. Soon.

 

All so the only plant that manufactured
Nitro in states burnt down if remembering correctly about 15 yrs ago,
All so recall the state of Ca or all 50 states had a ban on Nitro that you could not have more then like 40 or 45 gallons @ atime ,
Race team transporters or Nitro fuel truck had issues with transporting across Ca state lines, It had somthing to do either with Nitro or weight of transporters ,
Its been A while are those Laws / litigation still apply??

Are those 55 gallon drums or 40-50 gallons that are pictured ??

 

Its Racer X thread ,
Are you referring to lash caps ??

These ! ?

 

It was Racer X I was asking, those are the lash caps I’ve always seen. I’ve not seen ones that lock into the valve/retainer

 

Here you go.

 

It was what the top of the valve stem looks like that I was after.

 

you where not specific on question,,
A pic , I miss under stud , No worries
You said cap & retainer,
The ""keeper"" are locking style , lash caps sits on steam then lock / snap over keeper , most of time are 10 degs keeper or more ,
Its a common practice used part for Hight Rpms , spring presser & cam lift

 

When I get home I will get you detailed pics. These Manley item are really cool. The normal style lash cap can get stuck on the stem. It can be very hard to get them removed. It's no fun changing a valve spring with the head on the engine when one is stuck. That scenario is a thing of the past with the new parts.