Projects T C cab. 60's style on the cheap!

It does look kinda like the 60's Chrys Plum Crazy. Over gold, silver, white, light gray, idk??? & maybe some metalic added???
Marcus...

 

This will in all likelihood be a backyard type paint job. Not sure how multi stage paint is going to like dust and bugs in it! Lol

 

Paint it late at night when the dust has settled, the humidity dropped, and the bugs have gone to sleep.

 

Excellent idea, except I live on an island 400' from the ocean. As soon as the sun goes down the humidity climbs and the night bugs come out.

Who knows maybe I will win the lottery and be able to get a real paint job.

 

While I fully admit these are terribly cliche T bucket wheels I kinda like them. They look like spindle mounts but I can run brakes on the front. I finally found a pair I can afford and now I just need to figure out how to get hem across the province.

I might sand blast the spokes and put some ET two bar spinners on them.

 

Hey, dr;
The 60's n 70's paint was single stage, at least from the factory. I suppose the paint could be whatever concoction you choose to lay down. You asked about color... I was guessing at all of it. It seemed back then that lighter primer helped paints brighten up a bit, darker primer toned them down, Maybe only Imagination... For windy/dusty/etc, build a quick plastic spraybooth. ???
Marcus...

 

From the RJ #52 coverage, it's "Martin Senour custom mixed white & purple planet color urethane ".

They painted the whole car white, then taped the stripes. Then they sprayed the purple and removed the tape to reveal the white stripes, then cleared it.

 

@nrgwizard I was kinda hoping someone might have an approximate paint code.

I spoke to my friend @elkrusto this morning. He is going to look at fleet paint codes and see what he can find. He seems to remember their shop painting a truck a similar color not that long ago.

 

Yeah the look is why I'm doing single stage monochromatic paint on my 53. Took me years to figure out why the over restored cars at car shows didn't look right. It was the clear coat and use of modern metal flake. I use nason ful-thane urethane single stage. Super durable and the more coats you put down the shinier it gets. Ends up looking like a nice old school lacquer paint job at a glance without the downsides of maintenance on a legit lacquer paint job. And usually pretty cheap

 

@Just Gary Thanks! Sounds like a house of color type paint. Too rich for my blood but it gives me an idea.
My truck is getting a black interior(because I already have it!) and black vinyl roof. But I do like the idea of the purple and this shade really grabs my attention.

 

I get you wanted a code, but all I could do is guess at a possible close factory color, which should be easy to get.
On the spl-looking paints: At the Stude nats this yr, I saw a green reflection on what I found out was a '54 Packard, painted a stock color, single stage, no additional clear. I Q'd the guy at length about it. Was yrs old(10-15?), but a fairly deep green, not Jade, but under the sun it was bright, & the paint just danced in the sunlight as I moved around changing the viewpoint(trying to get decent pics of the actual color changes) due to the metallic in it. Finer than small metalflake, but absolutely stock for Packard then, am told Stude had some similar paints, as did other companies. But it seems most don't put the metallic, or poly, or whatever it was, in the paint jobs, so they seem really "thin" & "lifeless". All enamel single stage. Enough of those & I could change my mind on paints...
Marcus...

 

@nrgwizard im thinking gravel truck style industrial single stage is likely what it will get. Imron or something similar.
A shop I used to work at used gallons of the stuff painting helicopter transmissions. Bavarian silver. Basically straight metallic silver you could put on with a trowel. Add some color to it and it would be wild.
I might see if I can contact our old painter and see what he says.

 

OK, now this sounds interesting...
Marcus...

 

Check out a 60’s GM color called Evening Orchid. It’s about as close of a factory color as I think you’d get to that. A little more lavender and a little less purple but it’s a great color

 

Needs more purple.

 

So I've been trying to get this done for a while. I wanted matching front and rear wheel patterns and drum brakes. @Bondo Slinger had a pair of 51 Chevy drum assemblies has was getting rid of.
I learned that the Chevy brakes will sort of work on the A front axle but need a bunch of things to fit. The info I could find online was patchy and some of it required butchering a set of early for hubs welded into the Chevy hubs. I didn't like that.
More research said that truck spindles and car spindles had different king pin angles. Some sources said the truck is close enough to the ford to work with a little effort. Where others said it was the same as car.
Turns out it works out, sort of.
The Chevy car brakes will fit the truck spindles if you weld and redrill the lower bolt holes. The tops are the same. The king pins are .866 instead of .812 but I can make bushings and ream them to fit the ford pin. The ford axle is about 1/8 taller than the Chevy. Some careful grinding and file work will get it straight and fitted.
The Chevy truck steering arms obviously fit the Chevy truck spindles and have approximately the right angle for correct Ackerman. They have the taper from the top down and a deep drop. They actually could be bent up to the hairpin/4 bars, almost 2"! . I cut the original steering arm off and used a chrome one I got from a buddy. I need to machine up some nice stainless spacers for the backing plates.
But I'm stoked to say it looks like it will all work!

 

Nice work adapting those hulks!!!

 

@Bondo Slinger Thanks!
A lot of reading and parts scrounging, and some simple machine work.

 

Ford used a purple color close to this in the 90,s on probes

 

Nah that's plumb not purple. They used a similar color on F150's too dark .

 

Got my new wheels. Would like them better if they didn’t use dumb proprietary lug nuts. Might machine off the rocket brand logo.
The steering looks like it’s going to work. Trans needs to go up still, tomorrow.
Rear coil mounts are tackled in. I’m leaving the traverse spring mount in place. It would make a mess removing it, and it doesn’t effect anything in place.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/grabowski-shift-knob.1091515/#post-12375015

...That mount might be repurposed for a unique item...Norm put his Kookie heads back there...or a fuel tank of course...is there a box in the picture?

Acorn plugs in the lug nuts maybe?

Happy New Year Dumprat...
​

 

Just a thought.....

Having the top coilover mount holes running horizontal might not work well.
Example: As you stand the coilover up more towards a verticle position, it will raise the frame up and also make the suspension stiffer. The opposite will happen as you lay the coilovers over more (lower and softer).
To maintain ride height, the row of holes would need to follow the arc made by the top eye of the coilover, along with some allowance for the spring rate vs angle change.

I would also make it a 'double shear' deal at both ends of the coilover. It is more than just a shock mount. It will carry the whole rear end mass.

But, having said that, I still think this is one hell of a cool build.....

The steering looks nailed. Can you give us a full side on view?

 

So what your saying is one of those holes will likely be the sweet spot the rest not so much...

It's interesting the typical coil sprung rear end versus these coilovers...way smaller diameter...but weight rating is what it is...

 

Looking good

 

@twenty8
As I have no idea at this point how stiff these coils will be I need the ability to decrease and increase the rate. There are three sets of holes at the bottom to adjust ride height, as well as the adjustment screws on the coils them selves. I can always buy lighter springs.

There will be a box on this. Probably about 30” long. And I’m building the upper coil mounts double shear, I just haven’t got there yet.

 

Maybe..... Maybe not.
The spring rate required should be calculated first, with allowances made for the angle the coiler will be mounted.
This will not be spot on exact, but you should be well inside the ballpark.
The coilovers should then be setup with the rear sitting on the ground, under the cars full mass, and at the desired ride height. Any angle adjustments made afterwards will need to take into account both ride height and stiffness.

 

Excellent!!!
It sounds like you have the whole ride height / suspension stiffness thing covered. Adjustability is the key.

Can you post pics of the lower mounts please.

 

Not sure if you got your steering deal figured out, but.....
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/polished-reverse-corvair-box.1305642/