Technical ***January 2024 Banger Meet Thread - Happy New Year***

Link to previous month: December 2023 Banger Meet

Coming Events: (PM Jiminy with additions/corrections)
April 14, 2024 4 Ever 4 Antique Nationals at Irwindale Raceway in SoCal.
Stay safe.

For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Jim Brierley's book 4-bangers! And me! is a must read book for all banger enthusiasts. US customers send $34.00 all color except for the oldest pictures (includes S/H in the U.S.A.), PayPal welcome, to:
Jim Brierley, 39480 Colleen Way, Temecula, CA 92592.
email: jimb4e4@gmail.com
phone: 951-695-7313.

A few links to speed equipment companies there may be more
https://specialtymotorcams.com/index.php#header
http://www.millerhi-speedheads.com/index.html
http://www.modelatrader.com/brumfield/brumfield.html
https://www.hotforhotfours.com/advertisers.htm
https://www.secretsofspeed.com/speed-parts

Bert's, Synder's, Mikes affordable also list some speed performance parts.

Here is a list of most of the prior monthly banger meet links:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498

Banger basics. another info link list:
http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

The link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/may-bang-er-thread.470853/page-4#post-5212157
and this link shows the missing image from the above post
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-work-on-bangers.1010716/page-3#post-11427055

The 4 Banger hot rod picture thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-4-banger-hot-rod-picture-thread.997051/

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484

Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://web.archive.org/web/20120415...e.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:
http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Gary in MN's late model Malory distributor conversion for A/B engine:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9147025&postcount=109

Elrod's stuck head tech:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:
http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:
http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculator.php

Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"
http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05

Chevy Banger Stuff
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

T-5 5 speed in a Torque Tube:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226

Model A & B Style Cast Iron Cylinder Head Compression Ratios.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/headcompressionratio.htm

 

Thanks jiminy, checking in.

 

Been putting an A engine together that I got from @denis4x4
Happy New Year

 

Checking in, Happy New Year !!

 

Morning all

 

Happy New Year Y'All!!

I was just going thru some of the back shop area and located a couple of Improved Kong Girdles and pan castings.
Since the Burtz motor option has been out with 5 main crank and good rods but the block is not competition legal.
So was thinking, if someone wanted to build a comp motor with the Burtz crank, these would be a good option.
Offering them up for sale, blank castings set pan and girdle.

Let me know if interested, John

 

Picked up my A touring engine last week at Bert’s. Have to travel for business, so will get on it in February

 

Still collecting parts. Gotta get the garage organized so I can do something.

does anyone know a machine shop in San Diego county or south Orange County that knows As?

 

does anyone know a machine shop in San Diego county or south Orange County that knows As?[/QUOTE]

these folks may know a shop.
https://www.sandiegomodelaclub.com/

 

checking in for 2024.Need to finish up some chassis work and then build a hot banger for this buggy

 

winduptoy- you might want to consider replacing those compression fittings with either some long ferrule swage/flare fittings or some Parker or Swagelok fittings. My experience is that the brass ferrule fittings with that style nut do not support the tubing sufficiently and will allow the tubing to work harden and eventually break from vibration.

 

I agree....
I've been pondering over the whole oiling thing on this set up....it came to me this way. I'm actually inclined to change the bearing oiling lines to DOT listed airbrake/airline tubing. I had a whole discussion in my head about this and that is where I am in my thinking at the moment.....

 

Maybe while you’re at it plumb it post filter
I never understood feeding unfiltered oil into bearings
J

 

There are lots of Parker and Swagelok 1/4" tube fittings on ebay that can be had for pennies on the dollar for plumbing stuff like this. Once you figure out the OEM numbering system for fittings, its pretty easy to find what you need. I use regular old steel brake line tubing from the parts store if you don't want to spend the $$ on stainless.

 

Well I found out why my Model B engine was stuck.. I lucked out, the cylinder walls looks healthy and it's crack free!

I plan on throwing a set of pistons, rings, and valves in it. What can everyone recommend? It's 3.875 so I presume standard bore.

Also, does anyone have any experience with driving oil pumps off the front of the cam? I'm getting this oil pump soon for the front of my B.

 

Got my new front end in today...

 

Could I send you a PM? I'd love to pick your brain on how you're driving it off the cam. Thanks!

 

Retson, In the early 70's I bought a hopped up A block engine with a front mount Jewett oil pump. The pump worked great once I added a fitting on the inlet side to prime the pump, and a check valve at the pan.

 

Pretty simple
Inset a ball thrust bearing to control the cam and made a new cam nut with hex drive to match pump
I have seen some with single blade drive such as stock pump but that is too light IMHO

J

 

I've had pretty good luck with blade drive oil pumps over the years. Many engines use a blade drive, not just Model As. It's really a matter of preference and what works in each instance. I've lost count of how many blade drive VW pumps converted for use on a T engine that I have made over the years. The thing to remember is that you don't need 70 or 80 PSI oil pressure and the load on the pump drive is governed by the pump pressure. Tang failures usually result from a situation where the pressure relief was not adequate or failed to function properly. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

Well, being a mechanical contractor for 40+ years and having done high purity gas piping in semiconductor facilities, food grade and dairy piping...NQA-1 fitting in Nuke facilities... I have a butt load of leftover Swagelok and Parker fittings still.
All my experience in refrigeration, speciality gas fitting has shown me that compression and flare fittings have their limitations, even the extended barrel fittings...it just moves the stress point for vibration down the tube. My engineering voice says that the nylon tubing doesn't have the service factor for the application.....that thought should be discarded....
The tubing is 3/16" OD and that limits the options for fittings anyway.
So, I have $18.00 worth of 4:1 heat shrink tubing coming that should dampen vibration, give additional joint support and provide a barrier if the tube does fatigue and crack....and it is type K tubing as well.
I will double apply and have $17.00 worth of shrink tube left over to put with my buttload of Swagelok and Parker fittings plus I meet the greatest folks when I am broken down on the side of the road.....

 

Glad to see you're back at it! Happy New Year!

Paul

 

This gennie sprint car engine I have has a 6 cyl Pontiac oil pump shortened and mounted to the B front cover. The stock iron cover is drilled for the pump drive shaft and the cam nose is slotted for the drive.
Unfortunately the car keeps getting shuffled to the rear of the line.

 

Thank you all for your informative input! I definitely have a lot of ideas to play with.

Dan, the work you do is phenomenal. The impeller inside my Frontenac pump is amazing! After I get this side drive built, my goal is to build another front cover with my oil pump, and finish this KONG front drive setup.

 

I've been researching how to cut threads on my lathe, so this will be the perfect project to learn then!
Are there advantages to making a new cam nut opposed to tapping the face of the cam?

 

Slots in the cam spud are just fine if it works for your setup. I needed extra room on the one above to mount a drive gear for an ignition, thats why the special cam nut. I also added provision for needle thrust bearings for the cam end play. If your running a Hilborn injection pump, you might need a special nut in order to accommodate the pump hex drive.

 

You'll enjoy the challenge.

Single point cutting your first perfect internal thread to a shoulder is one of the greatest moments in a young mans life, just because I was knocking on 70 when I managed it didn't lessen the Yeeehaar factor one bit!

 

Blind threads are always a bit sketchy on a manual lathe… inside or out! Much less risky if you happen to have a carriage stop that kicks out the threading nut. You may consider flipping the tool over and cutting in reverse spindle rotation

 

Yeah
Most replies here on single pointing threads I can attest to, it is a skill.
I typically make a nut I can tap and then weld on the drive spud, yes lazy and the tap was nut too expensive
As far as drilling and tapping the cam itself more than likely it will be a tougher material and very prone to work hardening
There is nothing like breaking out a broken tap in a hard part if you don’t have an edm
Some of the dohc cams are gun drilled and tapped before carbuizing and just cleaning the threads with a tap can be fun

J