Hi all I’m hoping for some help, I’m looking to swap the worn out 4 cyl in my model B for a 21 stud v8, using bolt in parts if possible as I’d rather not modify the chassis incase I revert back to standard in the future. I’ve a choice of 2 different engines, one is a 35-36 pump in head type with original ally heads. Ive read these can be a pain to remove if needed. I understand this engine can be mounted on the original 4 cyl mounting points with the repro 32 type mounts that are available. The exhaust manifolds on this engine look tighter to the block so there’d be fewer clearance issues with the steering box. The other engine is a 37 type, with the lower down water pumps. From the pics I’ve seen of the engine it looks like the water pump inlets may cover the bolt holes needed for the 32 type mounts, would anyone know a way around this ? The manifolds on this one don’t hug the block as tightly so I may have clearance issues with the steering box. My car an English Rhd one, and I can’t seem to find many pictures on the forum where I can see the mounts that other people use. I’d appreciate any help as there’s not many people this side of the pond I can ask! Thanks in advance Nathan
paging @Mart to the white courtesy phone please. Here is a link to Van Pelts parts drawings page: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_partsdrawings_links.htm
The 32 front L mounts will bolt up to every Ford flathead made. The holes are the same in every block. But, when using any block that has block-mounted water pumps, you will need to slightly grind a clearance notch for the belt as they get wider at a lower point at will interfere with the L mount.
You are going to run into Driveshaft challenges. The Torque Tube and Propeller Shaft are shorter on a B than a V8. This will put the V8 into the Firewall area. So before you jump into the Front end look at the dimensions for each. You'll also need to use the V8 Trans as the B gearbox will not bolt up to the V8. Even the Rear End may cause problems with the flange aspects. Some, not all B Rears have a Model A style round Flange while others have the Flower flange style. It's not a simple as just bolting things together. This is a challenge I've had to work through, but it can be done. Good news is the Frame is set up for either/or. Good Luck - Tim - Tim
Some misinformation there. The 32 torquetubes are the same length for B and V8, as far as the front mounting surface goes. And whatever pre-48 flathead V8 trans you want to bolt to it will work as long as you use a 32 rear trans mount. It is as simple as bolting it together as long as you find the right parts.
Yep, the K Member in a '32 is the same spot so the driveline from there back is =. Good Correction. '33/'34 is where the challenge lies. I should have read the "B" as 1932 not just a B Engine aspect. My head just goes to '33/'34. Because that's what I play with.
Did this conversion back in 1968, used a Ford Pilot engine, no clearance problems, also used the gears from the Pilot box in the Model B gearbox casing and modified the shifter forks to suit. Fitted the Pilot radiator, Lincoln Zephyr brakes and 15 inch Mercury reversed rims. If you can get hold of the NSRA UK Street Gasser magazines April and June 2013, there is an interesting article titled The Survivor.
Since you're going to have to change out the B transmission to one for a V8 - might as well look for a good rebuilt 39 transmission. You can bolt the 32 transmission mount to the rear of it. The angle of the shift tower is different than in 32 - so you have to use the 39 shift tower and shifter. This will cause you to make some slight modifications to the transmission cover/pan - not a big deal. Also, you'll need to purchase a special bracket that bolts to the 39 transmission top - to use your stock 32 hand-brake setup. Depending on whether or not you're running stock mechanical brakes (and the stock mechanical switch), you may need a special bracket to mount the brake-light switch. If you have or are planning on converting to hydraulic brakes (not a bad idea if you're traveling faster than about 50 mph), you'll not need the stock 32 brake light switch - as you'll be using a modern hydraulic switch. The guys at 'Early V8 Garage' have complete "bolt-on" hydraulic brake conversion kits - all the way down to the last nut and bolt. They make exceptionally well-engineered brake conversion products. The products are a bit pricey, but you definitely get what you pay for! I can't speak highly enough about what they do. As other's noted, I'd rather have a 37 engine than an earlier one - it is the best of the 21 stud engines. You'll use the standard 32 V8 motor mounts up front (notched for fan-belt clearance), you'll use a 32 V8 fan (it is the right length - they can be a bit expensive, but it is the right fan). You'll need a generator with a front fan-mount. Also, the V8 radiator has 4 outlets - instead of two. You'll need either a new radiator, or potentially you can have yours modified. I'd prefer a new/repop radiator from Brassworks or the folks who took over Walker. Lastly, you'll need some special "s-bend" lower radiator hoses - to make the transition in height from the later water pumps to the lower 32 radiator hose locations. You can buy these from a variety of folks. If it was mine, I'd consider going to a later "crab style" distributor - much easier to work on than the earlier diver's-helmet style. Have the distributor setup by somebody who knows these ignitions - we have a few folks that many of us use in the States. Depending on the cam and timing cover on the 37 engine, you will probably need an adapter plate to convert from 3 bolt to the 2-bolt crab. Or, swap the timing cover (using a later 2-bolt cover) and make sure the cam nose is the correct length (though there are adapters for that as well). The overall conversion is not that hard - if you get the right combination of parts.
I just went to my local parts dealer and found some out the back that has an appropriate S bend in them and got two. Cut off what I didn’t need. 10 minutes of looking saved waiting to order and ship parts especially if overseas.
There was a guy in the Fordbarn classifieds about a year ago making the transmission cover to be used with the later transmission. As far as the master cylinder mounting goes attached are pictures of how I did mine without cutting anything. I kept the stock pedal assembly.
The following changes need to be made when replacing a Model B with a V8 (21 stud, others will require a few more things): Of course engine, motor mounts Muffler and exhaust system before muffler (same after) Radiator Radiator support rods Engine steady rods Hubcaps Starter switch (if it is early B with pull starter) Transmission (gears interchange but cases are different) Choke (B is a cable, V8 is a rod) Accelerator linkage Engine splash pans Gas line needs to be routed from right on Model B to left on V8 The B will have a few extra holes in the firewall pad from mounting the 4 cyl engine snubber Need to add V8 emblem to headlight bar Need to accept the fact that the serial number (VIN) is for a 4 cylinder Charlie Stephens
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