My 283 was missing two of the holes for the front mount. This might seem like a small easy thing to fix but i hate to drill because i always get everything crooked and it have to go fast so im a measure once drill twice guy. This time was gladly not a fuck up time and it came out good.
The upper right side goes into the cavity behind, where the fuel pump push rod is. Did you clean the shavings out?
Yeah i read that when i was searching for what thread the holes had (i got the metric system so im not so sure about inch) but thanks for the heads up. I will block the fuel pump off and took the push rod out, the original pump wont fit with the front engine mount.
If you could access one there is a great custom 39 Deluxe convertible features in HOP UP annual #17. You are going to have a really nice ride when your done.
I will also be watching closely. Just purchased a 40 Deluxe and wrestling with which way to go. It seems like I change my mind constantly, depends on which way the wind is blowing I guess.
Im the same, i dont have a 100% determined plan, i just build and do as i feel like along the way. There is so much cool stuff and different styles to build.
Gettin the 283 ready and when i took the oilpan and timing chain cover off i found that one bolt for the front main bearing cap was missing This engine was running this summer, i dont have any high hopes now that ive seen that the bolt was missing but i just put a bolt in and hope for the best. Also changed the timing chain and some expansion plugs. It might work and it might not work, we will find out when i fire it up for the first time.
At a minimum plasti-gauge that front bearing for peace of mind. Would not hurt to check all of them including rods while you have it upside down and then properly set torque on mains and rods. If it or any of them are way out of spec then throw a set bearings in there, they are not all that spendy.
The main caps and rod caps is marked/numbered so they changed all the bearings at one time but thats no guaranty they are good.
Well i got the crank mains off and its shot, seems ive been ripped off. It sucks because its kinda hard to find a 283/327 here.
Had to do the exact same thing on the 283 in my 39. Also, if you find that you need a spacer between the block and the hurst style motor mount plate, The original shackle bars of a 35 to 40 ford front spring are almost the perfect size. I used some old ones, opened up the holes just slight bit with a round file and welded them to the back of my hurst mount.
Dang it . I hate to hear that . If the block is ok can You order a rotating assembly for it and rebuild it ?
My cousin was looking for a cheap mode of transportation in the early 80’s . He found a 68 Chevy c10 setting in a guy’s backyard. The bed was full lo trash . He brought it gave it a tune up , repaired a few things and drove it about 200 miles. It developed a knock . We pulled the engine. There was tin shims under the main and rod bearings . The bearings were down past the babbit . Doofus’s are everywhere
Well got my hand on another 283, got it mounted and bolted in place. Did som spacers for the motor mounts to raise the engine a bit. The big bolts for the motor mounts are old rear shock mounts from a 49 Ford connected to the original bolt, had to drill the motor mount a little for the bigger bolts. The starter relay was hitting passenger valve cover, other than that nothing was in the way and the relay is a easy fix.
I had a similar issue w/the solenoid's position & so I moved it inside the cabin; cleaner firewall & not so easy for un-authorized hot wiring via some scoundrel. That's quite a nice car you've got there!
Minor update, got the radiator/lower radiator pan and a pulley powdercoated. Now the radiator is in place and i have to find some fitting hoses. The original plan was to rebuild the original radiator but time and money got in the way so the easy solution was a new aluminum radiator. It kinda sucks with a modern radiator but it got better with some black paint and i still have the original radiator that will be rebuilt when time comes. Also got lycky and got a pair of 265 manifolds for a case of beer, needed those for clearence.
Radiator looks 100% better in black. I have two originals one has many stress cracks in the tanks from tensions left in from the original stamping process 80+ years ago. The other looks great but could I know could crack at any moment. You will hardly notice the new one from the driver's seat.
I thought of grinding down the tig welds on the top of the new radiator to make the top tank look like it was made i one piece but i was afraid of leaks.