I have a remote air filter on my COE. Open element type mounted to the firewall, with 4" duct tube to the carb. Project is coming along nicely!
Thank you!! I think today I'm going to roll it outside so I can do a bunch of welding since the 6011 gets too smokey inside the garage.
Well yesterday I did a bunch of work. Moved the rear CM further back to allow for a mustang tank. Modified the middle cross members, started on the auxiliary shifting mech. And started mocking the side steps. Today I took a brake,and cleaned the carb on my FC,checked my sparkplugs and my son came home so I'm just hanging out with him..maybe I'll hit it heavy tomorrow.
Cool. My step van 235 had an updraft carb and low mount oil bath. Gm cars with inliners has some low mount breathers. Broncos amd Chevy 292s did as well
A set up is posted here https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...homemade-updraft-intake-for-a-302-gmc.560357/ but finding one.
Don't know about the manifolds, but the 235 Chevy updraft carbs are not difficult; one just has to look in the right place. Jon
Thanks guys but it's easier for me to do a bit of metal work than to mess with carbs and redoing my dual exhaust,etc. Yesterday my son stayed home another day so he helped me drill the holes on the side steps while I welded the brackets on
Just looked at the referenced thread. Not trying to grind my own ax here (well, maybe a little ) but three carbs are a bunch better than two on that engine. Look at the intake port configuration. You have 3 siamezed sets of two ports. Thus: The front carb feeds the front set. The rear carb feeds the rear set. Both carbs fight to feed the center set, and because of the eddy currents set up in the intake manifold, the center set runs leaner than the front and rear sets. Question was asked in the other thread about distributor vacuum. The Chevy 235 carbs would all have vacuum ports. The ports COULD be plugged on two of the carbs, using the third; OR one could take a page from Carter and assemble drip tubes from the port on the air inlet to the vacuum port on all three carbs, and fabricate a vacuum port when the intake manifold was fashioned. Jon
I also have an air cleaner off a 223 off a Ford Vanette... 160.00 dollars later and I have a balanced and welded driveshaft I also ordered my gas tank.. Brake lines are done just need to bleed them. I really don't want to C-notch the frame above because that means that I have to C-NOTCH the meat box
Thanks man ....no,YOU have. Mad skills...that extended cab on your coe is a workk of art...I wanted to metal finish it but I have a few more projects so just gonna put it together as best and quick as i can . BTW does your buddy still that Econoline bumper??
I was thinking about this thread recently. I haven’t picked up these parts but have been told they’re mine nice doors and clip. Hood that needs work If no cab turns up might just start cutting a regular one.
Yeah I could use that bumper....need to figure out how to get it from you. I may be traveling your way later this year. I started a thread on my van here. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1961-ford-econoline-window-van.1308869/#post-15110052
Will save it for you.. Today I worked on the C-notch and installed the mustang tank. And I'm extending the frame another 10" to fit the box better and to mount a future bumper . A guy came to buy a couple of extra doors I had and it turns out we sold stuff to each other before . He is also building a coe.
Forgot to add a couple of pics and a very important question. These are the gas tank, extension and air cleaner I took off the Ford Vanette I cut apart in Ca. I havent messed with dual wheels except for the donor frame for THIS truck. The dual wheels had washers in between I believe but the mounting face were flat.. Ok my new (to me)17.5 wheels,the holes are concave and seems like there should be a washer against the rotor and a washer in between the rear wheels? Am I correct with that assumption? Also are they just regular washers?as long ast they clear the mounting holes.
17.5s are uduslly dodge. GM dually wheels use these on the outside of the wheel Some of the older dodge had lug nuts with washers. It’s based on hub piloted vs stud piloted wheels. Older Ford, GM and dodge share an 8 lug bolt pattern. The difference is center hole size. GM is smaller than Ford and Dodge. I ran 17.5 Dodge wheels like that on my bus for the first couple months. Broke 3 studs on each side. The bus has a gm suspension. Replaced all the studs and used gm wheels with the ring. No issue.
You can see on this dodge wheel it had a lug nut with a washer or flange The dimples should fit and center the rear dually wheels together.
Im more worried about the dimples against the drum face and the rotor face.. The rear end is a Dodge so it might be ok there
Those are called "coined" wheels. The extra hole/slot went over a pin to align them with each other and the hub. They are stud piloted but your hubs need a recess around the stud for that little ring(coin) to fit into. If you have a Dodge rear they should fit there. What front hubs do you have? Post a pic of the mounting face of both front and rear if you can.
Yes I need the recess around the stud so the face of the wheel can "Sit" all the way around.. If I don't have this recess I think I'm going to grind only the ones that would interfere... I'm sorry I didn't havetime for a picture. I also have a set of the Chevy rings that @anthony myrick posted . I understand the hubo centric vs lug centric. My Ford coe has Ford hub centric wheels on Chevy drums and rotors ..haven't had a problem in 4 years... Didn't do much today,or it feels like didn't do much.. Welded the pass extension on the frame,pulled my extra 270 to start making brackets for the PS pump but I decided to turn in into a manual Steering...I'll fill the box with fluid and I'll have the shop make me 2 plugs... I did figure out my E,brake cables and Mid puller bar.. I'm not sure if it was factory or not but the 54 frame I used was extended 12",they plumbed the rear brakes with copper "water" fittings and copper line and the Ebrakes were set up with a 1 1/8" solid round bar accross the inside of the frame with notches,and a leverage stud welded to it.. I'm using the same holes in the frame,the mounting brackets and a bit of ingenuity... It couldn't go back the same way because the aux box is in the way.
I think I have the solution to my wheel issue.. I'm going to use the gm dually rings and that will keep me from grinding the wheels.. Today I worked on the floor of the cab... First thing was to remove the seat riser then I started to put everything together...I'm glad I saved all the pieces I cut off...put the bench seat i thought i was going to scrap because of the shifter but it looks like it'll work... It's tight in the garage with 2 coes. the th
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