Technical Splitting '37-'40 wishbone

Working on splitting wishbone from a 47 Ford. Are they supposed to be flat? One has a slight curve to it. Is that normal? Should I try to straighten it? After I got the spring mounts cut off I don't remember if there was a left or right. Does it matter?

 

Should be straight, I’d heat it up and see if you can pull it straight.

 

Slight curve? You mean bent.
As said, yes they should be straight.

 

Bummer, bought them out of state so didn't get a chance to really look them over. Any tips on straightening? Gonna try driving on it with my heavy truck first. They seem pretty stout.

 

I don't know why only one of your's is bent ? except if they didn't start out together or was left over build parts that never got finished =both should be matched.!
For split bones;;,often they are bent by builder=So tire on a hard turn dose not rub bone when hard over in a turn.
It's OK too be bent{ Both} for that,it's not a prob. As long as there is no cracks in bend/ Some cut "V" an reweld,an that's good too. Other wise,no way can car,with slip bone turn all the way right or left.
A pick too help;;Note how back 1/2 of bone is even with frame,an bend is just back of were tire would rub other wise. In these,they are 1948 spring forword bones,so bend n spilt also line up spring shackles out front.

Pic from rod restore after long storage,so lot of rust still needs work of full brake down an restore,slow as you go.[
ATTACH=full]5949543[/ATTACH]

 

I used to straighten steel farm gates this way, drive on it with a tractor.
Got pretty good at it after doing a few, but once done, all it had to do was be a visual barrier to the cows.

no,…….. I wouldn’t recommend your idea !

I would buy another set, not hard to find and not expensive for what they are.

Although, I have straightened similar items by using two bits of wood and cutting out concave shapes in them to match the good one and then use a hydraulic press with the wood either side, and pressed it back to where it should be.
.

 

Yes there is a left and a right. Look at the angle cutout where the axle fits.

 

Thank you, I'm putting spring over axle so lining up the spring mounts isn't a concern. On another site I posted the picture and was told I have them backwards in my picture which would make the bend towards the tire? Other than the groove cut by the spring mount I can't see why there's a difference in right or left?

 

As Dana Barlow said; it has been done to insure tire to wishbone clearance. It's something to check.

 

place your axle at the castor that you require and then put the good wishbone in the original position, swing it out to where it’s new position is (as split) and then swap it to the other side repeating the above exercise.
You will then know if there is a difference or not…….
ps, why does the weld on the bent one look odd /damaged at the axle end ?

 

Other than the cut for the original perch pins there isn't any difference; unless there is something is bent.

The only reason to bend them for turning radius is if the wrong axle is used.

Might be interesting to straighten that one without kinking or flattening it.

Driving over it would probably end up adding a curve to the skinny end.

Guy must have been a real asshole to sell a bent thing like that without disclosing it.

 

Look for a straight one, they're around and not expensive.

 

I'm using a new 28-31 4" dropped forged axle so I shouldn't have the tire clearance issue that wider later axles have.

eBay purchase, and conveniently all the photos didn't show any bends. Been looking for a set of these for awhile and these were the only ones I could find. I could buy new split 28 style but I really want the step-ups for steering clearance and the look.

All the welds look factory Ford. Not the prettiest but look original. The bones were actually pretty clean and only surface rust. One side has most of the factory looking paint on it. I wire brushed the one on the left. They came with one end cut off the center to make them easier to ship. I cut the ends even and welded in the tie rod inserts. I also cut the front spring mounts off and quickly filed it up for mockup. That's when I noticed they weren't the same.

 

Here's more pictures, I have the axle assembly just laying on the frame for assembly and mockup. Got all my parts today so gotta start putting it together lol, axle isn't centered either so it makes the bend look worse.

 

Not necessarily a vital point, but now I see a better view of them, those are not '37 bones. They are 46 - 48.

 

Your right, I meant '47

 

Fill it with sand and straighten it in a hydraulic press.
Al.

 

Awesome idea!

 

I've straightened similar . Try it slow on a press . Metal has a memory. It wants to be straight . If it starts to kink . Tip it on edge and press. It will belly back out . If it kinks too far its garbage .

 

It's only metal. Straighten it.
Acetylene, a press and a hammer along with so finesse will get it right back into shape.

 

I put it in the press and it straightened out easy, thanks for the comments

 

you have spoilt our fun, we are still only on the first page of this thread………..
(But pleased that you have found a solution).
I’m also now thinking that you weren’t serious about driving over it with your truck if you had a press all along………

 

Cool beans. I had a pair on my T bucket that I had bent Like the ones in Dana Barlow's post # 5 because I was trying to run split bones with a 46 axle with the spring above on my T bucket with what I know 50 years later was way too much caster. Even the 5:20 15's rubbed on tight turns before we reworked them.